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Hello,
As I went through my new car in detail I found an ignition system that is modified (see photo). I have a box with no description on it with a 5 pin connector which is not connected (see photo, fixed on the fender, even not sure whether it belongs to an ignition system).I have in addition a dura spark ignition box with plenty of cables. Of those some cables are connected somewhere others don't. Thanks for any comment that might help to understand how the ignition system of my car works?
Brgds
Hartwig

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While I cannot identify, specifically, the wires from your duraspark module, you may want to do a search "duraspark' in this section. There are a number of wiring diagrams and informative explanations regarding the Ford Duraspark. You then would be able to trace your wires. It sounds as if your new purchase has had a number of modifications that you are "working through".
The box is identified by the color of the wire strain relief where the wires enter the box ...

This is all i have on the color coded modules:
Red - Duraspark I (California cars 1977, California 302 V8 only, 1978-1979)
higher output, considered the module to use back in the '70s and '80s. Does
not employ a balast resistor. Senses current flow through the coil & adjusts
dwell for maximum spark intensity.
Blue - Duraspark II (49 state 1977, 50 state 1978 and later)
Yellow - Duraspark II with "dual mode" (except 1981)
White - Duraspark II with "cranking retard"
Brown - Duraspark III and other EEC controlled systems
Yellow - universal ignition module (1981)
Green - early solid state ignition (pre-1977) similar to Duraspark II, but
never popular for retrofitting, probably because the Duraspark I was
superior.
Adding a couple of thoughts to George's excellent Sticky on the 351-C, if you run a Duraspark ll conversion ignition system, be aware that the the Ford brainbox is considerably better quality than the cheaper Taiwan-made units sold in chain auto parts stores everywhere.
Second, in my experience the Ford electronic distributor pickups never fail but the brainboxes certainly do.
Third, a move that makes the brainboxes more bullet-proof is to switch any can-of-oil type coil for an e-coil that cannot overheat, fail and take out the brainbox & associated wiring. Both stock e-coils and aftermarket work. This mod comes thanks to an ex-Roush engineer.

Remember an old truism on ignitions is, there is no power advantage to any given ignition that's properly set up, but there is certainly a potential power loss if not well set up!
I have checked and found a "green" duraspark box. I also removed the other non connected box and found a motorcraft power ignition label on it. Seems that the previous owner was experimenting a bit with the ignition systems. By doing that I found that the balast of the coil was very loose connected. Could that be the route cause of the engine idling problem? I could not start the engine yet for a test since the harness is under partial rework.
Brgds
Hartwig
quote:
What remains unclear to me is the purpose of the wire connecting the starter relay with the coil.


I believe that wire bypasses the ballast resistor when starting.
I recently messed with this, I also had a bad connection at the ballast resistor which created a lot of strange intermittent problems.

Cheers
Martin
quote:
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...50045562/m/319104265

Yes as Piney said, the ballast resistor is for suppling full voltage to the ignition coil during starting. The ignition coil is a ~7 volt coil not a 12 volt coil. To lower the voltage to 7v during normal running a ballast resistor is wired inline which drops the 12v to 7v at the coil. During starting when the starter motor is consuming a lot of current, the ballast resistor is bypassed and supplies the full battery voltage to help starting, during this time the battery voltage could drop to 10v. This provides a nice voltage and increase in spark output when it really needs it.
Sig, your car bears S/N 1571? Relay panels all located in the passenger side footwell?

Georges drawing is more appropriate a later car that uses a resistor wire (L's) than one that had an actual ballast resistor (Pre-L's). Georges diagram assumes the existing lite blue wire from the ignition switch used to energize the relay is that resistor wire.

The Bosch style mini-relays are so sensitive that current leakage through the non-resistor wire may not let the relay disengage when you shut off the ignition key. The engine will just keep happily running.

The leakage is through the resistors and light bulb related to the charging light in the dash. Found this out the hard way on Georges car, s/n 2273.

Good luck.
I found that for an ignition system wired per George's diagram, green strain relief modules do not work, even though the connectors will mate.

I have two green modules that I got, and when I plugged in my the green boxes, the ignition did not fire.

There is an extra wire in the green strain relief boxes that was not in my Blue units. I suspect that this "no connect" is the cause. I tried grounding both boxes externally, and they still didn't work.

When I return from vacationing, I'll try and describe the wiring differences better.

Sig - obviously your system is wired correctly for the green boxes, since yours runs. It would be interesting, and slightly helpful to the community if you can tell us where the extra wire goes!


Rocky
quote:

Originally posted by Rocky:

I found that for an ignition system wired per George's diagram, green strain relief modules do not work, even though the connectors will mate.

I have two green modules that I got, and when I plugged in my the green boxes, the ignition did not fire.

There is an extra wire in the green strain relief boxes that was not in my Blue units. I suspect that this "no connect" is the cause. I tried grounding both boxes externally, and they still didn't work.

When I return from vacationing, I'll try and describe the wiring differences better.

Sig - obviously your system is wired correctly for the green boxes, since yours runs. It would be interesting, and slightly helpful to the community if you can tell us where the extra wire goes!



To answer your questions ...


1973 through 1974; Motorcraft ignition module #DY-157; black strain relief

Ford’s Breakerless ignition showed up in 460 V8 equipped North American Lincoln vehicles in 1973. In 1974 the breakerless ignition was employed in more applications, including all 6 cylinder and V8 models sold in California and all 400 V8 and 460 V8 applications in the 49 states. The first ignitions were not called Duraspark; they were referred to simply as breakerless ignitions. I am not certain when the “Duraspark” name tag began showing up on the ignition modules. The coil had 1.50Ω primary resistance, 10,000Ω secondary resistance and 1.35Ω ballast resistance; this is identical to the coil and ballast resistance employed for the breaker-point style ignitions. Spark plug gaps were increased from 0.035” to 0.044”. The ignition module had 7 wires terminating in two connectors, one with 4 pins, and one with 3 pins.

The wiring of the 1973/1974 ignition module connectors is as follows:

4 pin connector:
Red – provides battery voltage to the module when the ignition switch is in the run position
White – provides battery voltage to the module when the ignition switch is in the start position
Orange – connects to the magnetic sensor in the distributor
Purple – connects to the magnetic sensor in the distributor

3 pin connector:
Green – carries the ignition coil’s “primary” current to the ignition module
Black – carries the ignition coil’s “primary” current from the ignition module to a ground connection in the distributor
Blue – connects to the “BATT” terminal of the coil and serves as an overload shunt; i.e. it was intended to bleed-off any pulses of excessive voltage which may occur in the module.


1975; Motorcraft ignition module #DY-166; green strain relief

The breakerless ignition became standard equipment in all North American Ford/Lincoln/Mercury models in 1975. There were 6 revisions made to the ignition that year:
1 – A new coil was introduced (Motorcraft #DG-314) having 1.17Ω primary resistance, 8,500Ω secondary resistance, and 1.30Ω ballast resistance. This increased the coil’s primary current, and raised the coil’s secondary output voltage.
2 – Internal module components were “beefed-up” to handle the greater primary current.
3 – New “blue” material was used for the distributor cap to better insulate the increased secondary output voltage.
4 – Ignition module 3 pin connector “key tabs” were re-oriented and the connector wiring was revised to prevent the use of 1975 modules in 1973/1974 systems.
5 – A new “horse shoe shaped” coil connector was introduced to prevent reversal of the coil wiring.
6 – Silicone insulation was introduced to the ignition wiring to handle increased temperatures in the engine compartment.

The wiring of the 1975 ignition module connectors is as follows:

4 pin connector:
Orange – connects to the magnetic sensor in the distributor
Green – carries the ignition coil’s “primary” current to the ignition module
Black – carries the ignition coil’s “primary” current from the ignition module to a ground connection in the distributor
Purple – connects to the magnetic sensor in the distributor

3 pin connector:
Red – provides battery voltage to the module when the ignition switch is in the run position
White – provides battery voltage to the module when the ignition switch is in the start position
Blue – connects to the “BATT” terminal of the coil and serves as an overload shunt; i.e. it was intended to bleed-off any pulses of excessive voltage which may occur in the module.



1976 through 1986; Motorcraft ignition module #DY-184; blue strain relief

There were 3 revisions made to the breakerless ignition in 1976:
1 – Internal improvements were made to the ignition module making the blue “overload shunt” wire unnecessary; therefore the blue wire was eliminated. Thus the number of module wires was reduced to 6 wires.
2 – The 3 pin connector was replaced by a 2 pin connector, to reflect the elimination of the blue wire.
3 – The orientation of the purple and black wires in the 4 pin connector was reversed.



1977

Revisions to the standard breakerless ignition were again made in 1977. Ballast resistance was lowered to 1.10Ω. The ignition module and coil were carried over from 1976, with some internal upgrading to handle increased primary current. This upgrading did not affect how the system operated however. This was the year the larger diameter caps were first fitted to the distributors, and ignition wire diameter was increased from 7mm to 8mm to improve insulation. Spark plug gaps increased to 0.050". The name Duraspark II was applied to the ignition system. 1977 modules can be installed in 1976 vehicles, the connector key tabs and connector wiring remained the same.

A high output ignition was introduced in 1977, named Duraspark I. That ignition was not an upgrade of the earlier ignition, it was an entirely new ignition utilizing a high output coil (Motorcraft #DG-316) having 0.70Ω primary resistance, 7,750Ω secondary resistance and no ballast resistance (the coil operated at full battery voltage). A new ignition module employing dynamic dwell (Motorcraft #DY-204) was utilized to properly charge the coil. That ignition module had a red wiring strain relief. Spark plugs were gapped at 0.060". The ignition was designed to ignite leaner mixtures, diluted by increased amounts of exhaust gas, thus reducing misfires and improving the emissions performance of California vehicles (California’s emissions regulations were stricter than the national regulations). This module’s 4 pin connector “key tab” was re-oriented and the orientation of the orange and green wires in the 4 pin connector was reversed. This was done to prevent using the Duraspark II module in a Duraspark I equipped vehicle.
Last edited by George P
Hello,
I checked this morning the Motorcraft ignition module of my car which has a green strain relief. As you can see from the photo there is no blue cable.....In addition, I found the white cable not connected. Does it make sense to connect the white cable to the starter relay? The engine seems to start with no problem.....
Brgds
Hartwig

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