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There are 3 settings you need to adjust. 1)- the initial at the harmonic balencer is 6 degrees. 2)- the engine is started and the vac hoses disconnected & plugged. Initial PLUS whats in the centrifugal wts inside the distributor should not exceed about 34 degrees @ 3200 rpm. 3)- hook up the vacuum: total now should not exceed 38 degrees @ 3200 rpm. ANY pinging, back down #1, #2 and/or #3. Best power will likely show up @ 32-34 degrees total on pump gas.
The advance set-up for dual points (like I run) is the same except you slip a matchbook cover between one set of points to disconnect them, then set up your timing. The extra point set increases possible dwell angle.
Bob, for an 11:1 engine with iron heads, you'd do better to slip maybe two 0.042" thick composite head gaskets on each side between the heads & block to drop the thing to 9:1. Your timing has to be backed off a bunch to even let the engine idle, or you're running it on race gas all the time. A really radical cam will drop the combustion pressure down enough at lower rpms to let the engine live at 11:1 on pump gas, but it's risky & driveability goes to pot. IMHO you'll get more mid-range and better driveability @ 9:1 CR and a little more initial timing. My SVO with aluminum heads & a cam occasionally pings at 10:1 on 92 octane pump gas.
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