Motor mount cushion thickness?

It should look like this http://www.panteraplace.com/Te...ts%20112101%2013.jpg

Mike

Angelo,

I just checked my old original mounts and they are 15/16" plus the center "snout" for a total of 1-1/8". I didn't measure my new ones before I installed them.

John

Now I'm a bit confused. As you can see from these pics, I would THINK that the front of the engine dropped a bit, I checked a friends Pantera and measured from the frame to the header flange right over the mount and mine is over an inch lower than his. One inch here would be a bit more at the pully.



A/C and belt mounted but not adjusted.


Can't adjust this without rubbing!



Thanks, any ideas?

Angelo

Angelo,
I went with a belt that did not use the tensioner,I believe I used an old belt and cut it, then pulled it around and marked it so I could go to the auto parts and get what I needed,Goodyear Gatorback 17341. Keep in mind that I have a Sayden compressor so your belt size may be different, I have had no problems since I removed the tensioner. You will have to losen every thing to get it to pop on.

Mark

The mounting ears for the AC compressor seem longer than most which has the effect of lowering the compressor closer to the chassis.

Angelo,

Is there a possibility that the rubber mount was not placed between the two aluminum mounts?

Can you see if the lower aluminum mount (the one that bolts to the frame) has a horizontal weld on it? A slice could have been taken out of it and the resulting two pieces welded back.

John

"The mounting ears for the AC compressor seem longer than most which has the effect of lowering the compressor closer to the chassis."

I thought that too so I pulled the complete assy out and measured old and new. Both are exactly 6" from top mounting plate to bottom of pully. The new compressor and pully is smaller than the York. The Crank pully is also too low, the block needs to pivit up about an inch and a half in the front.

Gonna mangle on it tonight....

quote:

Originally posted by jb1490:

Is there a possibility that the rubber mount was not placed between the two aluminum mounts?

Can you see if the lower aluminum mount (the one that bolts to the frame) has a horizontal weld on it? A slice could have been taken out of it and the resulting two pieces welded back.

Both rubber mounts are in place and measure right at 1 inch thick, I DO have about 1 1/4" of thread above the mounts securing nut. Thinking on either adding a plate under the lower mount or adding a half a mount under the lower one....... If I don't see another remedy

Angelo

I did a little bit of measuring, and the rubber in between the underside of the engine support, and the top of the chassis support, is 18mm, which is 0.70inch. No idea how much room I have at the front side of the engine, as I never removed the firewall yet.

FWIW, Angelo, some or most of your troubles can be alleviated by reversing the lower mounts side for side, then altering the ZF mounts to match. Swapping the mounts pushes the whole engine backward some 0.62". Advantages: your unaccountably low engine mounting lowers the car's center of gravity thus improving handling. And sliding the engine backwards makes enough clearance in front for a big-cap distrubutor to not hit the firewall and makes maintenence easier. The move does not require any other alterations- water plumbing, electrical and halfshaft angularity are unaffected. The only area that bears checking is where the shifter shaft passes below the upper drivers side engine mount. If the shift-shaft support is not adjusted downward a little, sometimes it rubs the motormount, causing hard-to-dagnose shifting problems. I've cut my '72's mounts and also slid the motor backwards, and the relocation works well; the crank pulley edge is well below and behind the crossmember.
Finally, changing to a Sankyo or Sanden A/C compressor will also remove the low-speed side-to-side shaking of the whole car that comes from the sideways mounting of the York compressor. Around town, our York used to shake the car enough to make my wife carsick!

Thanks for the info Boss, I was looking into swapping them around and might still do that but I was trying not to remove the headers ( the left side area is quite tight).

I DID get the engine together and started yesterday, but now I think I created a new problem due to the new NAPA 197 stat not opening and overheating the engine. I am most likely going to replace the headgaskets, then it would be a bit easier to swap the mounts side to side. One of the reasons I wanted the engine raised also was that the bottom of the pan was pushing down on the brake cabling area, think moving the engine back would give more clearance for that?

And all this started with a compressor upgrade/replacement...I was hooking up the refrigerant to start the charging process when it started to overheat. sheesh.

You wouldn't have a pic of your front engine placement by any chance would ya?

Thanks,

Angelo