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Pantera looks like SUV

G Guest
Hello all,
Through things like aluminum heads, removal of L bumpers, aluminum radiator, and a lot of little things, I've pulled a lot of weight out of my car. Now it sits up in the air like my wife's SUV. Although I live in Chicago and could probably make an extra buck during the winter by attaching a blade to remove snow, I've decided to lower the car to where it should be. There is 6-1/2" from the bottom of the frame rail right behind the front tires and 8-1/2" from the rocker panel to the ground right in front of the rear well. Is there an optimum ride height? What's the best way to get there? I still have my spacers mounted in my coil springs. I never removed them because my car only has 3 of them. My car is not square it seems, or else I have different rate springs. One corner of the car is different than the others. I don't think it was wrecked although I'm not the original owner. I have perfectly good Konis on the car so I don't want to spring for $1,000 for new shocks if all I need to do is buy springs, or else take out the spacers and cut the one longer spring. While I'm here, my car never has had valves installed to shut off the heater lines into the dash. I just bought the valves and the clamps and I know to put them on the send and returns but does any one have a suggestion on exactly where the put them or wish they put them in hind sight? Thanks all, Vince
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fordgtfordgtMember
Hey Vince, I bet I get almost as much stuff in my trailer as your wife gets in her SUV! Check out the photos.

As far as the heater shut-off valves, I had mine mounted down low which required laying down on the ground to get to them, others have located them up higher near the surge tanks so you could just reach in from the top(probably a better location) Right now I have the hoses capped off because the last time I looked into hooking them up I realized the metal tubes that run along inside the console frame and are welded in place have rusted through and I am told it is a major job to replace them. I am considering stainless tubes under the car alongside the radiator tubes. In my research to do this, I found what I intend to use as far as heater shut-offs in the future. Vintage Air sells electric shut-off valves w/ a 5/8 hose fitting which is coincidentally what we need. each valve costs about 90 bucks but can be turned on/off with a switch from inside the cabin.

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fordgtfordgtMember
from the other view, This project utilizes a motorcycle trailer and was the envy of all of the guys at a show this weekend. I fit 2 rolling suitcases, a full size Pantera spare, floor jack, medicine bag, camera & laptop bag, tools cleaning & detailing bag and 2 folding chairs. There was plenty of room for more and it was unnoticeable behind the car until speeds of about 85.

There are pictures of the hitch I fabricated under the replies to Chuck Melton's topic called what's it weigh.

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fordgtfordgtMember
I am still looking for wheels that match the trailer, have found some in polished aluminum still looking for chrome. They stopped the autocross several years ago due to liability reasons. Periodically the local clubs go out to the autocross track at the Gainesville Speedway and for 40 -75 bucks a person you can race all day. The lights are from a group 4 which is what was on my car when I bought it 20 years ago. The bumper is a reproduction L bumber that I got from Pantera Proformance andc my body/paint cut it down.
George PGeorge PAdmin.
Vince,

as you lower a car, any car, not just the Pantera, you'll reach a limit where either you run out of suspension travel or you run out of camber adjustment. My Pantera is shod with the typical 245/40/17 tires up front, 335/35/17 tires on the back, it is lowered to the point where the aluminum low profile "racer" jack sold by Harbor Freight and some of our vendors barely fits under the frame rail (about 4" clearance). there is still plenty of suspension travel, but to achieve this ride height the front fender lips where rolled and the upper control arms at all 4 corners are modified to provide more camber adjustment (the standard A-arm bushings have been replaced with adjustable heim joints).

As a starting point, you can obviously adjust your springs to get the car back "down" to where it was before you removed the weight.

George
moosomoosoMember
George, what can you tell me about the adjustable heim joints? I need to "square up" my wheels and tires now that I have lowered my suspension with Aldan shocks.
I've been looking at the PPC rear adjustable upper a-arms, but have not found anything to address the front camber issues.
Can you point me in the right direction for more info?
Thanks, Mooso.
George PGeorge PAdmin.
Mooso,

the adjustable upper control arms were on the car when I purchased it, but if memory serves me, I have seen them advertised many years ago by Collectors Choice in Wisconsin. The Koni shocks have Collectors Choice decals on them, which "sort of" confirms this.

The front arms are stockers that have the oem pivots sawed off & threaded bosses welded in place of the pivots, the heim joints are screwed into the bosses. The rear arms look like completely new pieces, not modified original arms. The heim joints are positioned fore & aft within the oem chassis tabs with spacers, by juggling spacer thickness it would be possible to adjust caster. caster can also be tweeked with the heim joints.

on the road the lack of rubber in the upper suspension does not seem to create a harsh ride, the only harshness I detect is transmitted by the low profile tires when driving slowly over the rutted road surfaces in my home town of Fillmore. Any noise transmitted into the chassis is not heard over the sound of the stock exhaust system.

George
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