Pantera on a lift?

Last year I purchased a 4 post lift from Superior Equipment and it has worked out very well. I stayed away from the 2 poster because the ones I looked at all had to make contact with the underside of the car. Make sure your garage is 9' - 6" or higher.

Thanks for the reply. I'm leaning (probably not a good word to use) toward a 4 post. My garage is 10-1/2 feet high, it is the door that is the biggest problem. Hopefully I will find a door company that knows how to get the door close to the celing.

I'm sure I'll be back with more questions once the car is delivered.

I also looked around for a door company that could raise my tracks closer to the ceiling, with no luck, then the light bulb went off! I made a scale drawing and found I could park the Pantera on the lift and keep my old Mustang, which is about 44" tall, on the bottom. The garage door still works, but only opens about 5', but that is enough to drive the Mustang out. Of course, the door works normally when there is no car on the lift. Hope this helps.

There are also companies that sell roll-up doors that do not extend back into your garage. Instead, they roll up into a large cylinder right up next to the door opening. They look to be a little harder to insulate, though. Some are manual, some are electric.

I called the 'biggies' in Denver and was getting all kinds of input, new door & new opener; vertical mounted jack screw???? (didn't ask them to expand on that one), $2000 and up quotes, and all would only gurantee a 9' clearance.
Then I called one more biggie, they came out hinted at new door, and I just asked "can't you take that opener that is hanging 3' off the celing and make it hang 6" off the celing?" New track section, couple of dummy door sections, $770 quote & 10' clearance, they say it will be no problem. They will install next week, if it works as I picture it, common sense will have prevaled.

I'm going 4-post and am receiving a similar run-around from door contractors. Extra track and a couple of dummy sections seems like a reasonable approach to me.

In my case, my ceiling is 11' and has a standard 8 foot high double wide insulated door with the typical trolley type opener, enclosed cylindrical spring and track hung slightly above the door opening.

As I understand it, the first problem that must be over come is addressing the fact that trolley openers pulls parallel to the ground, not up. This is why the door is sitting right at the radiussed transition, and have the pivoting arm to attach to the trolley. If you merely extend the track up to the ceiling, the pivoting mechanism can't transition the pull of the opener to the horizontal track. -The dummy section of door mentioned above would solve the problem. You might also just hack saw the 90 degree radius into two 45 degree (or so) and extend up at 45 degrees, thus giving a transition to horizontal. This all may require a little higher spring loading as well, depending upon your opener.

The door guys were telling me I needed a jack shaft driven opener, commercial track and.... etc. $1250 was the lowest quote and no guarentees. I guess that's another way of saying I don't want the job. Looks like I'll be doing it myself.