Re Thermostat Brass restrictor plate

yes that is the brass restrictor in the pics, why would you want to remove it?

all you need is the correct thermostat which should be easy to find in Aus

what a coincidance!
I was just wondering about how the restrictor plate is installed.

would it be possible to get a measurement from the flange where the thermostat rest down to the plate.

quote:

Originally posted by 4V & Proud:
yes that is the brass restrictor in the pics, why would you want to remove it?

all you need is the correct thermostat which should be easy to find in Aus

Only because I have a new plate and Thermostat element, but I wasn't sure if I could just use the existing plate with the new element....

quote:

Originally posted by JFB #05177:
what a coincidance!
I was just wondering about how the restrictor plate is installed.

would it be possible to get a measurement from the flange where the thermostat rest down to the plate.

Sure, no problem will post info tomorrow

...The Measurement from the Restrictor Plate SEAT Up To the Thermostat SEAT is:

1.090" The Plates are .055" Thick, so the Measurement you seek is 1.035"

And YES! There is Nothing Wrong with the Plate in the photo, and in My Opinion it will last Another 45 Years. DO NOT try to remove it!!
There is NO reason to.
Removing it would mean, PRYING it out with force, which will Bend it and Destroy the fit, rendering it UN-reusable!

And Yes! The Robertshaw Thermostats that I Modify, Will work Perfectly with ALL 'Originally Installed Factory' Restrictor Plates.

Wouldn't They be Useless to the Entire World, if THAT were NOT True?

...Here is the Question that should be asked!

How far does the Robertshaw 'HI-FLOW' Thermostat actually Open? I have Tested Numerous Thermostats, and took Precise Measurements!

180F = .255" = 1/4"
195F = .130" = 1/8" This is the method used to maintain a Higher Temperature.

These Openings may appear Restrictive, until One figures-in, the Opening X The Circumference = 1.563".
Similar to the 'Flow' Through a 'Valve Curtain'!

And I have often noted that no matter what Modifications may be done to Increase the Coolant flow through the 'System', i.e. Larger Tubing, Hi-Flow Waterpumps, Overdrive Pump Pulleys....The Ultimate CONTROL, And ALL and ANY Restriction of the AMOUNT of Coolant Flow, Over TIME, will always be AT the Thermostat!

And NO! This does NOT Mean...running with NO Thermostat, allows the Engine to run cooler!
The Engine will run Hotter! Because the Coolant will flow through the Engine Too Fast, Not Allowing Enough Time to ABSORB the Heat from the Engine!

Well there we go another worthwhile thread for the new owners like me.. thanks again for the info all.

Thanks Marlin!
the fractional dimensions on the drawwing I included are something I found on line are not actual from your thermostat.

this shows that the cold recirculation flow through the lower "curtain" should be near maximun for the flow through the hole since the curtain is just slightly larger area.

the thermostat openings you provided...are those at a certain temperture or the maximun it could open at a very high temperture?

...The openings were measured at 'Rolling' Boiling Water temperature 212F Plus. FULLY OPEN.
The Stats did START to open at their Respective Ratings, with-in 5-7 Degrees Plus.
In the Engine, with a closed system, the water will Not boil, But the Coolant temps may reach as high as 230F-240F?? There is No way for Me to Test and Measure the Openings at these Temps. I imagine the Stats 'Could' open father at the Higher Temperature!

Perhaps Robert Shaw can answer that question!

THANKS...Much appreaciated.

(I did not want to assume anything)