I bought a rear hub rebuild kit, How does it install? Will I need special tools? How do I know I need to intall it? The grease in the bearings has to be 30 years old.
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If you can move your rear wheels around in the plain of the ground, i.e. around the axis of the Verticle. I did mine and it wasen't difficult, just make sure you get the pins that hold the two jurnal bearings in place, secured well. (panteraplace.com) Go here, he has great step by step directions.
As Cab said, Mike Dailey has a good section on this.
I would add.. If you're going to the trouble of replacing your rear bearings, I would also replace the very poorly designed stock axles with billet or forged ones.
Either way, you'll need an axle nut socket which the vendors may lend to you, if you buy new axles from them. Or you can buy the tool for around $90.
I would add.. If you're going to the trouble of replacing your rear bearings, I would also replace the very poorly designed stock axles with billet or forged ones.
Either way, you'll need an axle nut socket which the vendors may lend to you, if you buy new axles from them. Or you can buy the tool for around $90.
I'll add 2 cents to explain the benefit of the new axles,
As Mr DeRyke has explained it in the past, the rear axle bearing was designed for an interference fit. The axle OD however was undersized, for a slip fit. This leads to premature bearing failure. The fix is to have the axle built up & remachined to the proper OD, or to purchase the aftermarket axles, which are suposedly built to the proper OD. Those aftermarket axles are expensive buggars.
I've not addressed this problem myself, just passing on what I've read in the past. I trust Mr DeRyke's judgement 100%.
I believe the new axles in the oem bearings make more sense than the modifications to the rear hub carriers that others have made. The oem design appears sound to me.
The side benefit of the aftermarket axles is increased strength & durability, for use behind more powerful motors or to withstand the abuse of racing.
George
As Mr DeRyke has explained it in the past, the rear axle bearing was designed for an interference fit. The axle OD however was undersized, for a slip fit. This leads to premature bearing failure. The fix is to have the axle built up & remachined to the proper OD, or to purchase the aftermarket axles, which are suposedly built to the proper OD. Those aftermarket axles are expensive buggars.
I've not addressed this problem myself, just passing on what I've read in the past. I trust Mr DeRyke's judgement 100%.
I believe the new axles in the oem bearings make more sense than the modifications to the rear hub carriers that others have made. The oem design appears sound to me.
The side benefit of the aftermarket axles is increased strength & durability, for use behind more powerful motors or to withstand the abuse of racing.
George
Besides bearing failure, the other reason for replacing stock axles is they were made from mild steel.
Not good..since they were undersized from the factory, the wheel bearing will wear the axle over time. All original 30+ year old axles will probably have varying degrees of groove on them by now.
Again, not good, since the stock axle is hollow, it is very possible to snap the axle while driving!! Especially when you consider the side loads our cars are now subjected to with modern big wheels and sticky tires.
In contrast, all aftermarket axles are solid, correctly sized units.
Josh
Not good..since they were undersized from the factory, the wheel bearing will wear the axle over time. All original 30+ year old axles will probably have varying degrees of groove on them by now.
Again, not good, since the stock axle is hollow, it is very possible to snap the axle while driving!! Especially when you consider the side loads our cars are now subjected to with modern big wheels and sticky tires.
In contrast, all aftermarket axles are solid, correctly sized units.
Josh
I was also told that the "build-up" some have done as well as I did on 1 side was not a good idea do to the heat stress put on the axle to thicken it.
15 years ago I did have one hell of a time getting out the lower support rod. Mine was frozen in place to the point that there was no movement up and down. It was one of the toughest jobs I ever did to remove the upright from the lower a-arm.
Steve
15 years ago I did have one hell of a time getting out the lower support rod. Mine was frozen in place to the point that there was no movement up and down. It was one of the toughest jobs I ever did to remove the upright from the lower a-arm.
Steve