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I'm in need of technical advice on improving the Clevelands oiling supply, but I really only request info from those who are or have succesfully raced their Cleveland powered machine. I've tried several of the oil mods; restrictors, external line, high pressure oil spring, all with the same result. The bearings fail. Any tech articles or info on the lifter bore bushing mod and the oil manifold added to the inside of the engine (like the old Hank the Crank mod) would be great.
Thanks Dan Haynes
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How about some historical info? Back when the 351C was THE NASCAR engine, people like Waddell Wilson and Jr Johnson modded the 351C oiling system like this: first, they bored both the oil galleys out to the next std oversize, then shrunk a thinwall tube into the galleys. Next, they carefully pounded a lifter-sized ball bearing thru the lifter bores, to create 8 rounded dents in the shrunk-in tubes for lifter clearance. Finally, they drilled a 0.030" hole sideways through the lifter bores for a lube source, and plugged each of the outside holes. This left a smooth oil galley, with 0.030" oil holes inside at the lifter bores instead of 1/2" holes. They used restrictors in the oil passages like we all do, and cross-drilled the cranks at the mains for more even oiling at high rpms. The oil pumps were set at 80 psi hot, measured at the rear port. Later, they found that although the Ford rod bearing size of 2.450" dia is slightly larger than the Chevy, the wider 350 Chev size (2.200 dia) will carry more load, at higher rpms, without cavitating. Sleeving the lifter bores accomplishes much the same thing as above, but it's very difficult to get all 16 bores exactly square with the camshaft bore, then shrink the bushings in and ream to size. Some builders found the hard way that the bushings needed pinning... Finally, Boss 429 needle- bearing cam bearings can be fitted to bored out cam bores in a 351C, so the cam bearing oil supply can be completely closed off. Of course, this then requires a steel cam, but roller cams are all steel anyway. I've never tried it, but I'm told that the 460 oil pump can be adapted as well. Good luck-
Really the way to succesfully accomplish your task is to go to a dry-sump oiling system. That way you can keep a good supply of oil at the bearings at all times. For extended hi-rpm use, you can also put an oil fwwd to the front AND rear of the block. With the larger mains, you need to have a larger pump than most engines need and you especially need additional scavanging from the oil pan. Our stock car motors have 3 ~ #12 scavange lines from the oil pan and one from the valley and the bigger CI Sprint car engines have 4 ~ #12 scavange lines from the pan and one from the valley. It is a bit expensive, but, that is the price to go fast and turn!
Hey Gary-Mi...Do you have any good ideas for a wet sump system? Rules won't let me run a dry sump. Still looking for info.

Dan
quote:
Originally posted by Gary-Mi:
Really the way to succesfully accomplish your task is to go to a dry-sump oiling system. That way you can keep a good supply of oil at the bearings at all times. For extended hi-rpm use, you can also put an oil fwwd to the front AND rear of the block. With the larger mains, you need to have a larger pump than most engines need and you especially need additional scavanging from the oil pan. Our stock car motors have 3 ~ #12 scavange lines from the oil pan and one from the valley and the bigger CI Sprint car engines have 4 ~ #12 scavange lines from the pan and one from the valley. It is a bit expensive, but, that is the price to go fast and turn!

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