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Dear Panteradoug -
I know this is an old thread "but I gots to know..." did you ever get that top retaining nut back on the stud ??
I have been having fun with speedo installation on a single pod RHD.
This is what I have learnt:
1) there is almost no room for any normal hand to get to the speedo studs brackets or nuts.
2) you can pre- install one side bracket and nut with the speedo out. Choose the hardest one - in my case the rhs. With some firmness the speedo can slide in with one bracket and nut on. No chance with two. Leave it loose with around 10mm clear for final tightening
3) you can get the bracket on the remaining LHS stud ( which you can at least see from underneath ) with some effort - I wound up putting it on a small super magnet on a flex shaft and hooking it up there through the gap and sliding it on the fixing stud.
4) The original furled nut is aluminum so is non magnetic. A magnet will not work to get it in position.
5) I packed the furled nut into a slightly oversized socket and used a 1/4" 90 degree shaft turn ratchet to get it on and started. Once it was on I could get a couple of fingers tips on to tighten.
6) I did this all twice as when was trying to get my hand up there I disturbed the rear light plugs and one of the PE LED speedo lights fell out into guts of the speedo. The rattle as it went in was very similar to the sound of despair!
7) Pull it all out, disconnect everything and get the LED light out by turning the speedo upside down . Mess with the LED mount so its tight . Start again from 2 .
On completion the speedo cable curve into the back of the speedo looks pretty tight, as there is only about 3 inches between the steel bulkhead and the speedo connection point once its tightened in - but hard to see how else it could be run . Time will tell if attempt 3 is required to reroute the speedo cable . I am not sure I have the heart to pull it out again!
Who needs a gym?
I think I am getting better at it. 40 minutes to pull the speedo out reroute the cable to a slightly better alignment and put it back in with both retainers tight.
No more please!
I have an early, dual pod dashboard so my approach may not work on the later single pod dashboards.
because of the aftermarket HVAC unit I installed in 2511 during the reassembly after the collision repairs, I had increased obstructions behind the tachometer which totally prevented the installation/use of the U-shaped mounting bracket.
I found that the round opening in each pod was a ....very.... close match to the outside diameter of the speedometer and odometer. Taking my soldering gun, I melted the pod opening edges in four areas, creating a melted plastic burr/bump at each location. the melted plastic provided four tight contact points that firmly hold both gauges in their intended positions; push them in and they are installed.
they are never going to fall out, can be pushed out from behind with a little effort, and no one will ever know the “correct” mounting brackets are not in use.
The factory mounting brackets for those two gauges have been a problem for owners since day one. I am not aware of anybody else who has used my approach but I am quite sure those that choose to follow my example will find it works out just fine.
Think outside the box, and think harder instead of working harder. 😁😁
Larry
David,
that certainly looks like a very viable option that should have been adopted by the Pantera designers. Too bad they did not follow Porsche’s lead
The little melted plastic bumps I created were each well under 1/16 of an inch.
The friction-fit created by just that little interference was very tight. I sincerely doubt that even if a correctly sized rubber ring could be found that it would be thin enough to actually be usable.
Larry
