starter issue

Reach under there and snap a photo to share, because with all that compression/hp/torque you've got, I'll bet you have a high hp starter like this one under there.

http://hallpantera.com/cgi-bin...ntera-inc&item=22749

I'm going to jack the car up, and give the starter a tap with a hammer, if that doesn't jar it into working, I'll pull it out and take pics.

The starter worked so well, I'm surprised it just stopped working. I can hear the solenoid clicking, just no turny over.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9504


Ron

Try another battery. Check the electrical connections for tightness or corrosion.

quote:

Originally posted by Aus Ford:
Try another battery. Check the electrical connections for tightness or corrosion.

Especially the ground.

Happened to me in June. The hammer whack fixed it. No problems since although it may be an early sign of starter failure..?

The cheapest fix if wacking it doesn't work is a new PMGR starter from DB Electric. Search the forum topic under 'Hi Torque starter $40'. Check their eBay store. They sell them with free shipping. Sorry, I don't have the part number. I did do a quick check on eBay and DB Electric had a 351/302 Ford PMGR starter for $39/free shipping but they are almost sold out. I couldn't verify fitment as I didn't have the part#. I'll try to find it later unless someone else can come up with it in the mean time.

DB shows out of stock on thier webpage
here is an ebay listing
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FO...SSIONS-/360451471818

The #3223 from DB is the correct Starter for the Pantera, despite it says for 4 speed manual Transmission. I fitted one and it turns my 393CUI/ 10,5:1 without any problem. But perhaps it would be worth the trouble for you to first check your current starter with a Jump start Cable directly on the starter and/or Relay, it can very well be something apart from the Starter it self that causes the click only..........
Typically:
bad connection on Battery Terminals/Relay/Starter or Ignition Switch

quote:

The #3223 from DB is the correct Starter for the Pantera, despite it says for 4 speed manual Transmission. I fitted one and it turns my 393CUI/ 10,5:1 without any problem.

I have the DB Electrical starter in both my Pantera and 66 Mustang. They work great!

Hi,
I had a similar problem, but the starter became weaker and weaker and eventually wouldn't turn the engine over despite a new and well charged battery. I considered getting a mini high torque starter, but I have a pretty standard 351C and decided I wanted to try and keep things as standard as possible and therefore to try a standard Ford rebuilt starter for the 351C from the local pusher. Works absolutely fantastic, turns it over at a great rate of knots. But I did have to hold my breath as I tried to thread the old standard one out through the tubular headers and the new one back in. Mangaged it eventually without removing the headers, those suckers get pretty heavy after a while
Cheers, Tim.

so Mike
the loud click is the bendix (spelled wrong I bet) drive on the top of the starter that is what slams forward to make the electrical connection to drive the starter motor. Sometime a sharp wrap on the starter does it sometimes you have to hit the bendix drive itself (as the tv tech said it is not hitting it that you pay me for, it is knowing where to hit it)
the Torino starter should fit that is what I match up my parts to. Now just a quick question to save you some work you say you hooked up your remote trigger to it... do you mean a push button to bump the motor over with the starter or a replacement jump starter battery with a switch. Check the connections first make sure the battery connections are clean you also said you measured a voltage of 11.9VDC was that where you can get to it easy like the battery terminals or did you do the right thing and climb under the car and put one lead on the positive starter big connection and the other on the engine block. Big difference. good luck and PM me if you want my number to call if you need help just remember I am on a 3 hour time zone differential.

There is no Bendix drive in a modern starter motor, that is after about 1960.
The Bendix drive is a helical shaft and bush that uses the inertia of the starting gear to engage the starter to the ring gear.
Bendix drives went out with straw hats.

All 351C starters i have ever seen use solenoid engagement. It is the contacts in the solenoid that often degrade and fail to apply power to the starters main windings.

My old starter (before I did a performance update on my engine) was of the type on the photo. It does not have a build-in solenoid but used the Field of the Starter as an electro magnet that pulls on a Rocker Arm which again slams the sprocket forward and engage in the Flywheel. With this setup the famous Ford Starter Relay on the Firewall is needed.

What happened once (on our semi annual LMC trip deep inside France behind Enemy lines) was that the Rivet of which the Rocker Arm pivots fel out!!!! Really annoying but very easy fix once the Starter is off. Click..... Click..... Click????

Just saying that something like this could also very easy have happend to yours?

Little wire came loose on the starter. Black plastic plug, wiggled it, it was loose, I pushed it back on, and we're back in business!

Electrical Trouble Shooting - Tip #1 -

First, check the wiring on the device which is not operating correctly.

Larry