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That's how mine came off, for some reason not that snug. When I put the new Prototipo on, it went WAY down on the splines. That's gonna be fun to pull.

BTW,I have brand new Momo Tuner, black with red stitching that has never been installed, 13.5" dia. Half of whatever new is if you want.

Best wishes on your new wheel install and putting the old one on the wall!
Thanks for the replies. Before posting the thread, I had already gave the "heave ho" meathod of steering wheel removal. Didn't budge and started to worry that I was hurting the steering shaft...probably because my garage is cold.

Anyone have a suggestion on a puller besides the "armstrong" tool?

A Hudson: thanks for the offer on the wheel. I am more of the fan of the prototipo style wheel but I am staying stock for the time being.
If you are replacing it with something different, just use a long jaw gear puller.
A new Momo or wheel of your choice will mount closer to the dash since the hub will be shorter.
I went Momo. Not interested in going back to anything resembling stock.
The original wheel was some sort of a cost compromise. Definitely it is one of those items Ford was involved in forcing a decision to.
It should never have been on this car.
It functions lousy and it doesn't match aesthetically at all.
It was sourced from Fords European parts bin and original application was the German made Capri.
I'm sure it was a cost cutting consideration.
I remove the steering wheels with the following method. I prop my knees behind the wheel to apply pressure to pull it off. Actually, to keep it from sliding toward the dash with the column. Then with a long punch that fits on the center of the steering wheel bolt, I hit the punch with a large hammer. This will drive the column into slight compression and release the wheel. I'll often leave the nut unsrewed to where only a couple of threads remain on the stud to act as a guide for the punch. I have yet to meet a wheel that did not release with this method.
quote:
Originally posted by JTpantera:
I remove the steering wheels with the following method. I prop my knees behind the wheel to apply pressure to pull it off. Actually, to keep it from sliding toward the dash with the column. Then with a long punch that fits on the center of the steering wheel bolt, I hit the punch with a large hammer. This will drive the column into slight compression and release the wheel. I'll often leave the nut unsrewed to where only a couple of threads remain on the stud to act as a guide for the punch. I have yet to meet a wheel that did not release with this method.

Thanks JT! Worked like a charm and no broken nose!
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