My car is at the paint shop, the repaint job is being polished.
but My sump plug is leaking and my question is can I remove the sump without removing the engine
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Did it not work out for you with the M14 plug?
I believe you have to have the removable cross brace and the removable e-brake bracket.
Do you have a plastic washer between the pan and the plug?
Have you tried a good wrap of teflon tape?
The shop-vac trick on the oil filler hole does work well for a quick swap of the oil drain plug.
Good Luck.
Rocky
Do you have a plastic washer between the pan and the plug?
Have you tried a good wrap of teflon tape?
The shop-vac trick on the oil filler hole does work well for a quick swap of the oil drain plug.
Good Luck.
Rocky
Goodrock/Rocky, my pal who tried to fix it the last time has asked me to take off the sump if possible so he can do a correct job.
Now I know it cannot be removed we will have to do it another way.
Still haven't got the car back from the paint shop where its being Polished up.
They must be doing a good job, or not got around to it yet.
Now I know it cannot be removed we will have to do it another way.
Still haven't got the car back from the paint shop where its being Polished up.
They must be doing a good job, or not got around to it yet.
OMG i never heard of this one LOL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbmtvEmSJbQ
Peter, sometimes the correct way is the fastest, easiest most appropriate for the situation way that works. i would definitely try a plastic or copper gasket on the original plug, then an oversize plug with a gasket before removing the pan from the engine. that would have to be a seriously messed up drain plug thread. they even make rubber plugs and integral valve devices for easy / frequent services
https://www.nospillsystems.com/
http://fumotousa.com/
http://ezoildrainvalve.com/
http://www.stahlbus.com/produc...rain-valve/index.php
point is there's a lot of them some are the same as others
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbmtvEmSJbQ
Peter, sometimes the correct way is the fastest, easiest most appropriate for the situation way that works. i would definitely try a plastic or copper gasket on the original plug, then an oversize plug with a gasket before removing the pan from the engine. that would have to be a seriously messed up drain plug thread. they even make rubber plugs and integral valve devices for easy / frequent services
https://www.nospillsystems.com/
http://fumotousa.com/
http://ezoildrainvalve.com/
http://www.stahlbus.com/produc...rain-valve/index.php
point is there's a lot of them some are the same as others
Peter, if you plan on driving the Pantera in Europe with its higher speed roads, I suggest you NOT fix the OEM sump. It may be a blessing in disguise. There are three possible stock pans and the best of the lot still will not control the oil in turns, which can and has caused the loss of rod & main bearings; in one case, a connecting rod was lost.
An Aviaid 10-qt pan will control the oil on all Panteras including full-on roadracers, holds more to start with (I run about 8 qts) and is one of the few aftermarket parts that really is a bolt-in. Do the job right and pull the engine & ZF, cut the under-engine crossmember out of the subframe and either make it removable or scratch-build one that is removable with the engine in place. The lower rear a-arm attach bolts will hold the crossmember securely. The stock e-brake bracket must also be made removable but all that's necessary with the bracket is to cut the welds and use a piece of angle-iron to bolt it back in its original position. Note- a removable crossmember & e-brake bracket was stock on Panteras built after Ford departed the scene in '74, so its an upgrade rather than a mod.
Once the engine/ZF is out, pull the gas tank and clean/inspect the area behind the tank. That area is prone to collect debris, and rusts. It is normally inaccessible even for inspections.
An Aviaid 10-qt pan will control the oil on all Panteras including full-on roadracers, holds more to start with (I run about 8 qts) and is one of the few aftermarket parts that really is a bolt-in. Do the job right and pull the engine & ZF, cut the under-engine crossmember out of the subframe and either make it removable or scratch-build one that is removable with the engine in place. The lower rear a-arm attach bolts will hold the crossmember securely. The stock e-brake bracket must also be made removable but all that's necessary with the bracket is to cut the welds and use a piece of angle-iron to bolt it back in its original position. Note- a removable crossmember & e-brake bracket was stock on Panteras built after Ford departed the scene in '74, so its an upgrade rather than a mod.
Once the engine/ZF is out, pull the gas tank and clean/inspect the area behind the tank. That area is prone to collect debris, and rusts. It is normally inaccessible even for inspections.
^ good point ^ upgrading would obviously justify all the work involved to remove the pan
short of that some guys run with an extra quart of oil, 6 qts in a 5 qt system to prevent the screen form becoming uncovered
short of that some guys run with an extra quart of oil, 6 qts in a 5 qt system to prevent the screen form becoming uncovered
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Thanks for the advice regarding a better sump, I wish I had thought of removing that bracket when I had the inside of the shell painted in my makeshift single garage spray booth.
As you can see I did have the tank out and powder coated it too, also I am no boy racer and hope that my con rods are safe enough.
best Peter
[/urlThanks for the advice regarding a better sump, I wish I had thought of removing that bracket when I had the inside of the shell painted in my makeshift single garage spray booth.
As you can see I did have the tank out and powder coated it too, also I am no boy racer and hope that my con rods are safe enough.
best Peter