temp sensor

quote:

1) the passenger side fan and the condenser fans start immediately when I turn the key. Is this normal?

........Some cars have one radiator fan controlled by a switch on the center console. That may be your situation. Otherwise, no, radiator fans are thermostat controlled and should not just come on with key turn.

Condenser FANS? You have more than one? Should just be the single stock yellow fan sucking air into the engine bay. That fan is controlled by the round temp control knob to the upper right of your center console. Try turning that small chrome knob counterclockwise and see if that turns off the condenser fan.

2) the coolant tank closest to the front has a 5/16 hole 1/3 down from the top and is facing the engine. Is this where the previous owner moved the sensor to the block? what is best way to plug the hole?

........yes, probably the stock temp sensor location. A trip to an auto store - NAPA - should source an appropriate brass hex-head plug for that hole


3) Last question I swear. the coolant cap located on the rear tank does not fit snug. what is the correct cap?

Correct cap is European and they differ slightly from US specs. You may find what you need at an import parts house. Most of us run 13 or 16 pound caps. Any competent radiator shop can cut off and then install a proper neck for US spec cap, if needed.

And no, that is NOT going to be your last question.

You are destined for many more questions, but that is why we are here.

Welcome to the De Tomaso Family and the P.I. forum!!

I suggest you contact the Houston Space City chapter of POCA and you'll find plenty of local hands-on support in addition to us here in cyberspace.

http://www.spacecitypanteras.com/

We want photos and more info for your car!

Larry

Got to agree with Larry on that one. If that is your last question you either have an extremely well sorted out car or are very talented!

quote:

1. ...radiator fans are thermostat controlled and should not just come on with key turn.

Many Panteras have the fans wired to come on with the ignition (this is how mine is). They didn't come that way, but often times people have done this when a thermo-switch has failed on the road, or just to help with cooling.

quote:

2. A trip to an auto store - NAPA - should source an appropriate brass hex-head plug for that hole.

Install a drain petcock instead. This will allow you to easily drain only the top half of your cooling system instead of the entire system, which is handy if you ever want to change your thermostat or water pump, or remove the heads for any kind of valve work/service.

And everything else Larry said... All good advice!

Welcome to the family!

Anyone have a P/N on the european spec. cap?
I'm suspecting I have issues with my coolent system not pressurizing properly causing higher temps.
The back/lower tank has a standard 13lbs cap, but the upper tank has what looks to be an original cap, no spring just a deteriorated gasket.
Around here, if you don't have a vehicle model for the "parts Guy" to start with your not gonna get much help.

quote:

my coolant system not pressurizing properly causing higher temps.

Pressured or not, the temp should be the same.

What the pressure mostly does is adjust the boiling point, not how hot it runs.

Just what symptoms are you having that leads to to say 'higher temps'?? Are your gauges stock? Does the car boil over when you stop? Does it make any funny noises, steam or such?

High temps in a Pantera is often just sort of a given, not necessarily a problem needing fixing.

And is your car now running a 427? More details would be helpful?

Larry

Well, I didn't want to hijack the thread, but here goes.
Yes, running a stock bore '66 block 427 sideoiler, solid lifter cam, dual 650 Holley's.
Duel electric pusher fans wired to run in key on position.
Tunnel port heads and intake.
Last summer the temperature would climb to 195*-200* in slow traffic, it would come down, but very slowly once moving again.
I changed out the T-stat to a 180*, all it had was a restrictor plate installed. P.O. used it mainly on the track from what I can gather.
That helped, but the ambient temps. had dropped by the time I swapped it out, so not a deff. fix of the issue.
On a 65* day, the engine temp would climb to about 185* befor the t-stat would open and drop the temp. down to about 170*. After about 30 min. of drive time the temp. would stabilize at around 180*.
I don't think the radiator cap(s) are the main culprit, just a contributor.
The cooling system was upgraded, but I'm guessing the upgrade was to 351C spec.s, not 427 cooling requirments.
It's possible I have a flow issue, either a worn or missing water pump impeller or a slipping belt.
I can get the temperature to drop by bringing up the rpm's, but only briefly before it starts to climb again.
I ran it yesterday, 80*-90* day, had to shut down twice and run my fans with the motor off to cool what was in the rad. and then bump the motor to pump the cooler fluid into the block.
It's climbing up to 210*, that's as hot as I'm willing to let it go without shutting down.
I need to pull the bulkhead and check the belts, I had planned to replace them last fall with the t-stat, but the "parts store didn't have a belt close enough to fit and the one on the car was in good shape. I also need to try and get a casting number off the water pump to make sure I get the right one ordered.
No strange noises, gurgles etc., after doing the t-stat I lifted the rear of the car to fill the cooling system. (heard lifting it helps keep air pockets out when filling?)
No coolant leaks, just had it on a lift doing the fuel pump and all the coolant lines looked good and no kinks to restrict flow.
I couldn't even see that there was any coolent seeping from the "weep holes" on the pump.

I think it's a flow issue more than anything, either because of a failing pump, or not enough flow designed into the 427 swap.
Which brings up a question. If it comes down to needing more flow, I have a 2nd thermostat housing access on the rear of the intake. Would it be possible to tap into the aft tank and run a coolant line to the rear of the intake?

quote:

Last summer the temperature would climb to 195*-200* in slow traffic

That is not a terrible temp, especially for a Pantera.

210 does enter sorta scary, but if it holds there and doesn't keep rising, again, not a terribly scary temp for a Pantera.

Scary temp is tank boiling, overflow tank puking when car is shut down, or constant climb with no end in sight.

If you want to follow the flow concept, remove the t-stat completely. Your P.O. may have found that to be the case, hence his restrictor plates.

Air burping is usually more than just a one time operation, too. If the radiator has bleed petcocks at the top, also bleed that direction, by lifting front end.

Larry

210 is not that bad. Remember, many new cars dont turn on the electric fan till 235 or 240. My old Vette was that way. I must digress though, I did change the sensor to a 210 unit.