Throw out bearing

Pic #2

This shows the grease that came from inside the bearing. This was after 1,400 miles. I didn't take the pic until after I removed the hub, so some of the grease was disturbed.

Fortunately, only a small amount of the grease made it to the bellhousing.

Pic 3

I removed the grease from the back side of the bearing and placed it on the blade of a putty knife. I spread it to about the thickness of a quarter, and placed two quarters for comparison.

John

In the future, or now....you want to try and get a BCA 1625. Bearing Company of America.

Last of the good ones before it all swims offshore....

Steve

THROWOUT BRGs Info;
FEDERAL MOGUL 1625T , 1.625 ID, .755”W, 3.130”OD, CROSSES TO CR, N-1586, HEAVY USA, KRAGEN $19.99 OR NAPA $20.85.
SCHATZ 1181 USA,OLD ON PANTERA / HEAVY FROM HALL’S, NO CAN FIND, This is a good one! THIS CROSSES TO A NATIONAL BRG N-1181 AT NAPA FOR $18.91.
SWATANTRA, S-1241 510 NON HEAVY CHINA, FROM PANTERA PERFORMANCE CENTER.
Constant run $36.00
BCA 1625, Bearing Company of America, USA.

sick one,

I would bet that any of the bearings you have listed here priced under $30 are not made in the US.

I just pulled a SCHATZ version from my car, with about 25K miles on it that I had purchased from NAPA Auto Parts back in the 90's. I do not know if they still carry it....but it was in great shape when I replaced it....because I was already in there...and I do not want to be back in there for a long long time!!

If you want a BCA bearing, you need to find a bearing house that will get you a real live bonafide made in the USA BEARING COMPANY of AMERICA piece. There will be no additional names on the box such as Federal Mogul, TRW...... These companies purchased the BCA name and such, closed the BCA facilities in the US and moved all the production to Mexico. You will pay about $50 for a real BCA bearing.

That's what I was told by my clutch guy and from what I could find on the web.

Steve

Steve,
You have been misinformed, I have as stated bearings from napa that are US made, 2 from CR and 2 from SCHATZ, http://www.schatzbearing.com/
I also have 2 SKF bearings made in Germany, a nice second' Good ones are out there!

Mark

But I refer back to my $30 reference! I believe my statement still holds....


I never maintained that good ones aren't out there....what I was inferring, is that you will (should!) pay much more for the better quality bearings....and would be better off paying more....! See first post in this thread.

Ciao!
Steve

I just pulled my trans. Have the same POS Mexican bearing throwing grease out. Anyone bought a "good" bearing lately and where did you get it ??

Mike

quote:

Anyone bought a "good" bearing lately

Mike,

Is there such a thing any more??

I bought one from Dennis Quella to replace the one that I started this thread with. No problems so far (4k miles on it).

A friend bought one from PI recently, and it threw some grease, but not a lot.

Did yours throw a lot of grease? How many miles?

John

Is there such a thing any more??

Yeah I hear that ! It lost quite a bit of grease. Guessing maybe 3-4K miles.

I will check with the vendors.

Mike

Get ye self back up to the top of this post for some reading...... You may have to do some detective work to find a parts house in your area that can dig an old one up. I got mine from a truck supply house....they do BIG truck brakes, clutches, etc. Check your local yellow pages..... Again, you will pay MORE than $20 for an original "on-shore" bearing!

Steve

My local Car Quest was confident they could get me a good bearing. HA. Opened up the National box and out came a Federal Mogul MEX just like my junk one.......To be continued......

Mike

Summit has several throwouts listed in their catalogue for Ford smallblocks- one is priced at $59- but I'd still suggest a specific phone call to their tech guy, or simply go to one of their stores and look at their choices.
Also remember- there are apparently two different iron throwout carriers for Pantera/Mangusta ZFs; one bearing might be REAL tight on one carrier and rattle-loose on another, even if it is a nice tight sealed U.S- made bearing. There are several threads on this sizing from the past.

quote:

Originally posted by midenginemike:
My local Car Quest was confident they could get me a good bearing. HA. Opened up the National box and out came a Federal Mogul MEX just like my junk one.......To be continued......

Mike

This is just an idea, but if you are willing to spend a little more money and a lot less time you may want to give Precision Bearings a call. A couple of years ago friend of mine needed a new clutch bearing for his Countach. Now a Countach clutch bearing is "crazy money", we are talking four-figures for a new one. My friend has his old one rebuilt (polished races, new ceramic bearings, etc.) for a whopping $85 and it works flawlessly to this day. They may have a direct-replacement bearing available if preferred. And since one of the guys that works there (or at least did) is a former Pantera owner, they a little familiar with our needs. A free phone call may save you many hours of labor and pain.

mike, if youre looking for throw out bearing with part# D16y7561-B i have 5 new ones in the ford boxes. I would need a little time finding them but I do have them. thanks, mikedmayberry@hotmail.com

quote:

Originally posted by king:
mike, if youre looking for throw out bearing with part# D16y7561-B i have 5 new ones in the ford boxes. I would need a little time finding them but I do have them. thanks, mikedmayberry@hotmail.com

I could use one of those as well. I sent you a PM.

What's wrong with the one from PI? I don't remember the exact price but it's been good for a long time. I replaced the clutch and T/O with units from PI with my old engine and they were still good after 3000mi so I kept them in. Every thing is still going great.

Thought I would support our vendors. Got a bearing from PPC Colorado. Made in India. Sato brand. Didnt like the "India" part.

Ordered the billet carrier & bearing from PI. The carrier looks nice but it has the same India bearing.

74LQQKR says it works good for him....Looks like its going in...

another pic

I have the PI billet carrier and bearing in mine. 20,000 + miles. So far so good
Doug M

I just got my package from Rock Auto today and am pleased to see that it is a USA made bearing from SKF #N1181. I had to do a lot of cross referencing from my old one which was an Aetna Ball and Roller Bearing Co. #A-2311. Note that I have the 1.625" ID hub.

You can go to Rock Auto and do a part number search for N1181, mfgr. SKF, or look under a 1953 Ford Club 3.9L V8 (among many other applications)! Be prepared to part with $22.79 plus shipping. Only 2 in stock at the moment.

If you click on the part number, you see that it was used on MANY vehicles from Ford, GM and Chrysler.

quote:

Got a bearing from PPC Colorado. Made in India. Sato brand.

Interesting. Last year his bearing was a Swatantra, made in China.

John

Dave2811,

Rock Auto site says that SKF bearing is a self centering type. Just like the MEX bearing that gives trouble. The grease comes out the back side where the metal folds over. Im afraid of that type now....I should cut my old one open and see how its supposed to seal.

All of the earlier Ford T/O bearings were self centering (IIRC). The original Pantera bearing, an Aetna made-in-USA, is self centering. Mine has 106k miles on it and hasn't "leaked".

John

Cut open the Federal Mogul self centering Mexico bearing. There are NO seals of any kind in there.

OMG!

I'd sure love to see a cut away of the GOOD bearing too!!!

Most interesting!

Steve

Steve,

I would like to see the inside of a "good" bearing too. I dont have one to cut open. Anyone out there have one for "the cause" ??

Mike

Just for sh*ts and g*ggles, I called the Federal Mogul product line and spoke to a great rep, Rick.

He dug out the prints for the 1625 and figured out that there was never any seal in this bearing....

He's going to put in a ticket to the product manager with my phone number in it. Not sure if this will garner a call back or not...but I may refer him to this thread or steal JB's pictures and send them to him....IF I get a call back....

SO, is it a fitment problem with the pieces and parts?

Is it a grease issue? ie too much or wrong stuff???

Would surely love to know!

Stay tuned!
Still looking for an original used bearing to cut up!

Steve

On another front, A Pantera owner recently installed a new steel flywheel from Jegs on his engine, and the clutch locked up disengaged during his initial 2-mile drive! After lots of e-mails back & forth, he determined the 'far-east-made' flywheel was thinner at the crank flange than stock. That let the throwout bearing over-travel on the ZF nose-piece, so the front end of the bearing cocked and caught on the front of the ZF nose-piece. After a short tow-truck ride home, he had to repull the ZF to release it. There are a number of fixes for this but his last words to me on the subject were "SUPPORT YOUR VENDORS"!!
He reinstalled his old flywheel. Note also that aluminum flywheels may have thicker, or thinner crank mounting flanges than stock, but either can be a source of frustration until you sort it all out.

quote:

Originally posted by Mangusta:
...
He dug out the prints for the 1625 and figured out that there was never any seal in this bearing....
.....
SO, is it a fitment problem with the pieces and parts?

Is it a grease issue? ie too much or wrong stuff???
..
Still looking for an original used bearing to cut up!

Steve

I wouldn't say the bearings have no seal. They are shielded, not sealed, which allows for a certain amount of protection. In my recollection, any car I have changed the clutch had a similar design. Might be a design necessity with a thrust bearing as opposed to a traditional roller bearing. Consider its duty cycle is pretty light, not like a wheel bearing that is constantly under load.

If there is grease migration outside the shield, then the bearing was over greased to begin with. Shedding some of that excess grease will actually help the life.

I had an original Aetna bearing, and it looked to be the same design as the replacement SKF.