Under dash loose connection steering

Drilling and pinning (bolting it) should solve your play issue, however.. you will effectively be eliminating the collapsible column (safety issue in the unfortunate event of front impact). Food for thought.... Rob

I copied the Steering Column Clamp on The Panter Place. It has worked well for me.

Steve

I was at Dennis Quella's Pantera Performance shop this Spring. While touring the facility, I inquired if he had any of the original nylon parts that take up the slack in the column. He replied, "Probabaly and why would i want them?" Getting to the point; Dennis said that he welds the shafts together so as to eliminate all play. He reminded me that the column was not Pantera specific and showed me how the column is not physically able to collapse it the Pantera application anyway. Thus by welding, there is no safety feature being compromised.
Unfortunately, I do not recall the design specifics he pointed out; although, his demonstration convinced me that he was accurate.

Thank you Rob, JT, and Solo. I think I will try the clamp, a better solution is one that maintains the column as intended.

Interesting info JT... I will look into and asses this perspective of the design.

Many years ago I was in the same camp as Dennis and JT, however I changed my mind after being challenged to think about it more.

The collapsible portion is designed to provide some reduction in movement of the steering wheel toward the drivers chest in a full frontal crash where the frontal body (and steering rack) is forced rearward. Agreed that would be a hefty impact and one might be worried about other issues, but I do believe it would do what it is designed to.

Although the steering column was borrowed from a Capri, it served exactly the same function in that vehicle, so to discount it for that reason is a stretch IMO, Ford certainly believed the slip joint would offer some crash protection.

I have tightened up a number of these by removing them from the car and taking a blow torch and hammer to them to caress the flat section back to minimal side to side play.

Julian

Another option is to replace your worn or missing nylon clips (the ones that eliminate the clearance between the outer tube and inner shaft) with steel ones. That way, you have zero play between the parts but the column can still collapse in a frontal collision. Wilkinson sells them. Cheap too!

Like David suggested, I used brass shim stock to take up the slack from worn or disappeared nylon shims. You can 'adjust' the tightness with shims by squeezing the outer section with big vice-grips. I have also (if requested) drilled a hole thru for a mild steel cotter pin (or even a bent nail!) This locks the sections together but will shear if a big enough impact happens that would have made the collapsible section work.

Julian

I'll admit, I never looked at the collapsible protection from the perspective of preventing the steering wheel from being forced back into the driver's torso. I've seen several heavy front end damaged Panteras and have never noticed that issue. Admittedly, perhaps because of the collapsable design.

I am going with the clamp, but do you really think if you hit that wheel hard enough to make it collapse you would survive??? come on, you would be better served by investing in a 5 point harness and a roll bar. I would be far more anxious about a tire through the windshield or a tee-bone by a S.U.V, the only thing collapsible is you against steel. Surprise you are driving a fast and dangerous ride, "Danger Ride" You want to be safe? Buy a Volvo

Late 80`s and early 90`s Mazda 626 has the exact same collapsible parts they are made by TRW. The company that made Capris parts was bought by TRW!
And do not weld the parts together!!! If you are in an frontal collision it is made to collapse just a little when the steering rack is forced backwards and then the steering wheel move upward instead of in to your chest.

Even with all the latest safety features available their is no guarantee you will survive a crash, the steering column moving the steering wheel up from your chest is???? your head!

If you have the style of Momo steering wheel hub that has the rubber bellows around it, they are designed to collapse on impact.

After I received the parts $8.00, the instillation took less than 5 minutes! Note I used a keyed clamp, cut a key tightened it down and no more slop!

weld a line on 2 sides of the part what goes inside the other part , and grind it carefull till there is no space anymore.
problem solved and still the safety system works
Simon

No need Simon, the wall has been crimped by the "KEY", their is no play whatsoever. This use of the key-way and key leaves the connection fluid on impact (for what that's worth).

Interesting approach Chris. Do you happen to have photos of the clamp prior to installation? Part Number, source etc? thx!

Just got back from test drive with the correction of the steering play was dramatic, slop gone it was responsive and concise. The pictures are of the keyed split 1" i.d. clamp and key bar stock, the total price was about $8.00

I sourced these parts from my local hardware store, "Guadalupe Hardware", I live in a farming town and the store has everything!

chris, please help me be clear;

1) did you leave the clamp in place with the bolts snug

OR

2) did you remove the clamp once the key made a crimp in the tube

No it is left in place and I gave it about 25 l.b.'s of torque on the bolts.

Interesting Chris. I like it.

Just went on McMaster Carr site and found it. Here is a link for anyone interested in utilizing this concept: Collar Clamp Link

For some reason the link goes to the main page, not the specific page. Just look for "Clamping Two-Piece Shaft Collars"