Greetings from all the way over here in Norway folks, I'm a spot of trouble that I'm fairly certain someone here can help me with.
Long story short, I work at a tire dealership and i have a client looking for a set of wheels for his Pantera with Group 4 fenders, the car is not an original 4, though. (I'm not sure if that makes a difference) I have 2x 345/35R15 Pirellis, will those clear the back? And we're not sure of the ET, backspacing and all of that stuff, as we've never touched a car like this before. Any guidence you might have would be greatly apreciated, thanks in advance - Daniel / TireKid
Original Post
Hey Daniel

I have never had the opportunity to measure the wheels you're interested in. Therefore the offset data, and spacer data, in the chart I've attached are based on comments from members here. Offset is the same as ET.

If any of the data is in error, I would love to know ... and in the process we all shall learn. So please you guys who own the wide bodies, chime in and educate us Smiler .

The important part for you to understand Daniel is that the wide body Panteras came from the factory with spacers between the wheels and hubs, which increased the amount of negative offset.

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quote:
Originally posted by TireKid:
Greetings from all the way over here in Norway folks, I'm a spot of trouble that I'm fairly certain someone here can help me with.
Long story short, I work at a tire dealership and I have a client looking for a set of wheels for his Pantera with Group 4 fenders, the car is not an original 4, though. (I'm not sure if that makes a difference) I have 2x 345/35R15 Pirellis, will those clear the back? And we're not sure of the ET, backspacing and all of that stuff, as we've never touched a car like this before. Any guidence you might have would be greatly apreciated, thanks in advance - Daniel / TireKid


Daniel- one of your countrymen in Taasaavelen has a set of front & rear wheels for a real GR-4 for sale in the POCA Newsletter that he recently had restored. This is a good idea since cast magnesium age-hardens and gets brittle even if sitting on a shelf, so needs annealing every decade or so to reduce stress build-up. Racing wheels look identical to the street versions. PM me for details.

Note that real GR-4 wheels were made of a different 'Elektron' mag alloy than the street versions, and real-race wheels were 10 X 15" front & 14" x 15" rear. Street rear versions were 13" x 15". Both are horribly expensive so I advise first attempting repairs on whatever you have now; contrary to what you may hear, cast-magnesium wheels CAN be TIG-welded with the proper alloy weld sticks. It doesn't always work- depends on the welder's skill and using the correct rod, but you never know unless you try.
quote:
Originally posted by Bosswrench:
quote:
Originally posted by TireKid:
Greetings from all the way over here in Norway folks, I'm a spot of trouble that I'm fairly certain someone here can help me with.
Long story short, I work at a tire dealership and I have a client looking for a set of wheels for his Pantera with Group 4 fenders, the car is not an original 4, though. (I'm not sure if that makes a difference) I have 2x 345/35R15 Pirellis, will those clear the back? And we're not sure of the ET, backspacing and all of that stuff, as we've never touched a car like this before. Any guidence you might have would be greatly apreciated, thanks in advance - Daniel / TireKid


Daniel- one of your countrymen in Taasaavelen has a set of front & rear wheels for a real GR-4 for sale in the POCA Newsletter that he recently had restored. This is a good idea since cast magnesium age-hardens and gets brittle even if sitting on a shelf, so needs annealing every decade or so to reduce stress build-up. Racing wheels look identical to the street versions. PM me for details.

Note that real GR-4 wheels were made of a different 'Elektron' mag alloy than the street versions, and real-race wheels were 10 X 15" front & 14" x 15" rear. Street rear versions were 13" x 15". Both are horribly expensive so I advise first attempting repairs on whatever you have now; contrary to what you may hear, cast-magnesium wheels CAN be TIG-welded with the proper alloy weld sticks. It doesn't always work- depends on the welder's skill and using the correct rod, but you never know unless you try.


The wheels it came on are unoriginal, and too skinny for the group 4 flares. as for buying used, it's a work thing, so if i get those original ones and one is pot-holed square
(common problem with how bad our roads are)
I'd have a set of really expensive wheels I'd never ever get rid of. so that's not something I'm allowed to do, too risky. if it was an Audi or something, i'd probably get the green light but this is a very unique car. i have a good few crude wheel repairs under my belt, but i also have a good chunk of blown out alloys, i dont even want to try my hand on magnesium unless it's my own set. and i can't afford magnesiums! thanks for the input anyway, though.
quote:
Originally posted by Panterapatt:
Buy a new set of Group IV wheels from ROIN in italy. Forget the magnesium drama and buy ROIN made from aluiminum. Inquire with them direct, dont go through a middleman reseller.

Tires now available in Pirelli P7 both sizes (285 and 345)

All it takes is money.

heh-heh I am the middleman reseller, friend.
quote:
Originally posted by George P:
Hey Daniel

I have never had the opportunity to measure the wheels you're interested in. Therefore the offset data, and spacer data, in the chart I've attached are based on comments from members here. Offset is the same as ET.

If any of the data is in error, I would love to know ... and in the process we all shall learn. So please you guys who own the wide bodies, chime in and educate us Smiler .

The important part for you to understand Daniel is that the wide body Panteras came from the factory with spacers between the wheels and hubs, which increased the amount of negative offset.

Thanks a lot! that chart really helps massively!

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