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Jim,

The Wilwood brake systems sold by the vendors employ rotors that are 12 3/4" in diameter. I have been told the oem wheels will not fit over the Wilwood system, but I haven't tried it to verify this.

However, our sponsor, PI Motorsports, sells an upgrade for the oem brakes (4 piston calipers, etc) that does fit inside the oem wheels. The components of this system are not Wilwood however.

cowboy from hell
How's these for rotors...:-)
More to come....I'm rebuilding my entire suspension and brake sytem with Wilwoods.
Big Grin


However, our sponsor, PI Motorsports, sells an upgrade for the oem brakes (4 piston calipers, etc) that does fit inside the oem wheels. The components of this system are not Wilwood however.

cowboy from hell[/QUOTE]

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Last edited by coz
Jim,

I purchased my Wlwood brakes from Dennis at Pantera Performance. They will fit under the 15" wheels with a little grinding on the caliper corners. Dennis was very helpful in making sure I got the proper setup. For a long time I planned on getting the parts and make the brackets myself. I don't think it would have been worth it. The installation was very easy. I would highly recommend that you get the rear rotors mounted on outside hats at the minimum. It makes changing rotors very easy. You might as well rebuild the rear uprights while you have it apart.

I am very pleased with the Wilwood system.
Mark
Mark,

I've enjoyed reading the feedback from both you and Kevin about the Wilwoods fitting inside the Campy wheels. I have a couple of questions. What diameter are your rotors, 12.72"?

By "outside hats" I assume you mean hats that slip over the wheel studs and mount between the wheel and the axle flange. Did you have either front or rear hats mounted this way? If so, how did it affect the tire clearance? What size wheels are you using, 15x7 & 15x8, or 15x8 & 15x10?

thanks,

cowboy from hell
Thanks Mark for the input.

I have 17" Kodiak Wheels

Got my set up from Dennis as well.
My set up had to be just a little different since my car is a real GT5. A bit different than the stock Pantera's as to Suspension, Hub Carriers, Axles Stubs and Hats.

I have also rebuilt the entire suspension as well. Rear Wheel Bearings, Axle Stubs, Uppers, Lowers, Bushings, installed Zurk fittings for lubing on the A Arm bushings and had everything powder coated. Front & Rear....

Going to put the brakets and rotors on this week.

Thanks again for the thoughts Mark.

quote:
Originally posted by ehpantera:
Jim,
I purchased my Wlwood brakes from Dennis at Pantera Performance. They will fit under the 15" wheels with a little grinding on the caliper corners. Dennis was very helpful in making sure I got the proper setup. For a long time I planned on getting the parts and make the brackets myself. I don't think it would have been worth it. The installation was very easy. I would highly recommend that you get the rear rotors mounted on outside hats at the minimum. It makes changing rotors very easy. You might as well rebuild the rear uprights while you have it apart.

I am very pleased with the Wilwood system.
Mark
Last edited by George P
George,
My wheels were 15x7 & 15x8. I've since gone to 17x11 &16x8. When I bought my car last July the brakes did not work at all. I knew I wanted better brakes and larger wheels but couldn't do both at the same time. You gotta stop first. The rotors are about 11.75" x1.25". That is the max you can put under the stock wheels.I have hats mounted outside of the axle flange in the rear and inside on the front. The hats are only .250" thick at the flange. Just a note on Dennis's hats, the rears are billet and the fronts are cast aluminum. I am currently using 285/40/17 and 245/45/16 tires. I have had no interference problems. You must remember that if you mount the hats outside of the flange, you will also need longer studs.

Mark
Looking good Coz,

So does anyone know if the heim carrier post you have (i.e. GT5) would fit a n earlier hub carrier in place of the uper ball joint?

I have a pair of rear upper A-arms I picked up from Johnnyalki and I'm hoping to convert them to adjustable. I could do it one of two ways; a) add adjustable heims in place of the rubber bushings to give the adjustability on the inner side or b) do a conversion to GT5 specs with the heim at the outer point in place of upper ball joint. a) would probably be easier, but b) looks neater and is likely more practical.

Thanks for any input,
Julian
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