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Herman, while this is a crap time of year to tear it down, I would seriously consider taking it apart and checking. A bearing is a lot easier to change before it has failed badly, and the cost of doing it after it fails could be very high. A friend's bearing packed up recently while driving and he stopped as soon as it felt weird (front bearing) but in that short time the entire bearing melted and fused itself to the spindle. He was lucky that it didn't do any really serious damage. The car had been restored only a few hundred kms before. Not quite enough grease it seems.

I hope all is well with you guys.

Mark
Herman,

If your car is a factory GT5 (i.e. 9000 series), then the axles and hub carriers are a little different than the Ford era cars. They use a stepped axle and larger outer bearing. They do seem to have a minor amount of play even when newly rebuilt.

Replacing the stepped axles is far more costly than the early variant, so I would second Mark's recommendation to dismantle and check it all. It is possible the spacer between the bearings has worn allowing the nut to tighten further. If the spacer shows signs of wear along with the outer thrust washer, bite the bullet and replace those as well.

Julian
Thanks for tip guys. I will take it apart and see what's worn out and you posted.
Julian, yes its on my GT5 and hope parts are readily available
Mark, we are doing great. I'm planning a trip to Nelson BC with the Panteras Northwest group.
It wouldn't be the same as the last RMR but still be fun. We have to meet again.
Worn axles are extremely common. When things start shifting around with higher power, a soft mild steel axle shaft will wear before a hardened-steel bearing race. So normally, the bearings are fine but 0.001" of wear on an axle will cause wheel wobbling. Incidently, worn spacers shorten the tension stack of the axle assembly, so the nut torque slacks off, thus making things worse. Truing up the spacer(s) faces on a lathe shortens the stack; eventually, the stack gets so short, the splined u-joint adapter bottoms in the axle splines and then, no amount of tightening will compensate.

I used to weld-repair stock axles with too little bearing press-fit clearance from the factory, but its not worth the trouble in these days of (relatively) cheap high-quality, stronger steel replacements that are sized correctly from the suppliers. The proper bearing-to-axle press-fit interference should be 0.0006"-0.0010" and yes- that 4th decimal is important. Also note- some books incorrectly state the axle nut torque should be 300 ft-lbs. In fact, it should be AT LEAST 400 ft-lbs and more is better. That spanner nut will strip on a stock axle at around 1200 ft-lbs, so feel free to add a little torque!
Herman,

Sorry to hear that, but not unexpected, mine were exactly like that! Both mine had been rebuilt previous to my ownership but not using new thrust washer and spacers and they consequently wore out within a few thousand miles.

You may be aware, although it may not be obvious as you took the right side axle apart. The right side is a right hand thread (axle stamped with a D = destra) and the left side will be a left hand thread (stamped S= sinestra). If you are only replacing the one side for now be sure you get the correct hand thread.

Julian
Herman, I'm glad that you caught the problem before a larger one presented itself. You have made quick work of it too! Good luck getting it all back together and on the road. And as Julian in implying, do keep a close watch on the rebuild for the next few hundreds of miles.

Mark
Herman, if you send it to a vendor, be careful, I send mine out and it was not right when I got it back, the wheel did not turn freely and in about 500 miles it destroyed it self, leaving my wife and I stranded. Being stranded is one thing but we had just come from a steep hillside filled with S's and we could have been killed.
Dennis in Colorado is the guy for the job.

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