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I do, just a lttle burned out on it. As it stands now. The 17,000 stock engine needs seal/gasket kit and engine spray.The bell housing and engine mounts are already powder coated.Install flywheel,clutch, bellhousing and tranny. Drop her in and bolt half shafts and linkage up.Small stuff. Just stepping back for a while.Not sure if I'm going to install the stock motor or not.Would love the sound of a Dart Windsor stroker. This stuff is insane. We are never really done are we? Time for therapy from my therapy!! Big Grin
Ron I worked harder at recovering the sand today. I got a 2 gal bucket and screen wire. I filtered it then put it back in. When done I put some large trash bags in some small trash cans and put the filtered sand back in the trash cans for tomorrow. Worth while thing to do.

This is the 5th full day of sand blasting with por15 at the end of the day. This is a days worth:

Ron Por15 is a rust protectant. You can brush it right over rust. It is why the British car guys love it for their retsorations. A lot of poeple rave on it. I was on the fence weather to do the underbelly and chassis with it but finally decided to. It needed a rough surface to adhere to. It gave you some options. It said just knock the rust off and coat. I wanted as much rust as I could get to gone so I wasn't going to just put this over rust. I may spray this in all the channels though.

It said you could use their acid metal prep before hand but then wash it off. I thought this was not the best idea. Where does it go and how do you control the resedue. If you wash it off won't it rust up then? Next it said to either sand or sandblast. I decided to blast.

Supose to be tenatious stuff. It actually cures from moisture so if moisture is present it sucks it out. It actually says best put on dry and cured in a damp environment. What are we the weathermen?

Can be primed, painted and should be topcoated as it will fade in UV. I thought I would use it for non-body parts; especially underbelly and areas hard to get to. That way if I did not get it 100% blasted I still have some protection.

More photos from today:

I figure probably 3 more days on the chassis.

Great progress ...

Forgot to take pics ... but today I got almost the entire car chemically stripped ... I'm up in the air .. I think I'm gonna rent the compressor and blaster and do it myself. Not sure what media to use .. maybe sand since I will have all the body panels stripped.

Tell you something funny .. the car had BONDO in alot of places for NO REASON ... after removing it I found the panels are straight ...

Another thing the car had a nose put on it .. what appears to be when it was NEW ... the seems are finished with LEAD and a real nice job. So monday I progress further and by next weekend I plan to rent the BLASTER.

Pic tomorrow.
Ron in nose and everwhere you see red:

When you get some photos start a dual thread.

Kudos with the chemical stripper! I have been recovering my sand and only used 2 brand new bags the etire day. I have been having difficulty with the moisture. It has been a little more humid today and the sand kept clogging up. I am thinking of getting the HF refrigerated line drier. I ended up removing the 9/32 and the entire hose attatchment on the end and simply pushing in an air attatchment plug into the hose. The hole was bigger and the velocity was down but it didn't clog. I covered more ground to start but ran out of good air pressure quicker with the big hole. I also did not have as much cleaning power with the bigger hole.

Glad today is over. This will give me plenty to work on in the garage for a while.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by comp2:
When I get ready to work on the hood I am going to duct all the air out the hood instead of under the car. I am thinking of reversing this beam to see if that gives me enough air flow with a laydown:

You do great work and I'm sure if you did it, you would do it well. Are you thinking ala GT40 and prefer that look? I think it depends more upon the look you wish to achieve. FWIW, I don't think it's needed from a cooling standpoint. IMO, the only cooling challenge to a Pantera is at rest, not at speed. This is so provided you have selected a good, properly sized, aluminum radiator, sucker plenum, and fans. This is especially the case with increased HP. There is sufficient room to accomplish this without mod. None of the small hood grilles can flow enough air to make a material difference, thus your remarks about the need for doing something more significant. There may be a minor arguement to be made about control of air flow under the car, but again, I don't think it significant.

Keep up the good work. I enjoy watching your progress and the quality of your work.

Kelly .. you have a good point .. two things come to mind.

The stock hood vents ? Well from the looks of them on 9138 .. between the grilles and screens the measure maybe 12" x 4 " = 48 square inches x 2 grilles 96 sq inches ..then subtract the grilles every 1/2" which easily cuts the free area in half 48 sq inches then the screen .. every 1/8 inch .. cuts the free area in half again .. 24 sq inches then the mounting frame .. around the edge ... THESE STOCK GRILLES are eye candy .. they do practically nothing ... so with that said any other type of hood grille would benefit over the stock .... my opinion.

Thanks Kelly, the purpose doesn't have to do with cooling. These cars duct all the air under the car which is not good. This is like a hover craft at speed and I think can be a lot better. I want to evacuate all the air from under the car and close off the underbelly. I don't think it will look better either it's just functionally what I want to do.
Ya-know my view is and always has been: modify to your own tastes. I’ve never been a trailer queen guy or a collector that values originality in minute detail over functionality and performance. Just look at my car, a 74 US GTS. I'm routinely given grief about modifying such a "rare" car. To me, it was just a nice Pantera with pop riveted flares, GTS badges, and a clock in the dash. No offense to original US GTS owners, that’s just me. These choices are what make the car hobby fun and interesting. Drive’m hard boys.

So with all that said, if it’s what you want to do, all the power to you. I understand and even like it and you'll do it well. But at the high risk of hijacking your thread (apologies in advance, I realize it's your photos post, so delete my remarks at will), seems like the two issues discussed in the later remarks are aerodynamic flow and cooling.

I just don’t think I can agree the mod you describe will provide some measurable functional improvement in a street car and would even question it for anything except extreme competition. So, the first thing I’d have to ask is what’s the purpose of the car? (I know; fun! But..) Is it an open road race car or a street car? The air dam design and its ground clearance will drastically affect under car flow compared to the comparatively modest amount of air you’ll get through the radiator, fan, etc., and unless we’re talking very high speeds and competition where the minutia matters. I just don’t think this volume of air and belly pans are material compared to other factors. But IMO, they do look great.

After an effective air dam, the other factors that cause nose lift at speed such as the shape of the Pantera in general, the configuration of the nose, and especially the and rake of the car, are orders of magnitude larger factors than the contribution from the volume of air you can deliver under the car through the cooling system. If you have a different view, happy to hear it.

I also see a lot of people performing hood mods for the purpose of addressing cooling issues and simply put, it takes radical mods to make any measurable improvement in this regard and rarely if ever (never in the case of the small grilles) do they address low speed cooling issues. OK fellas, have at me. Big Grin

A road race is not out of the question. It depends on how I feel about the car after putting this much time in it.

Having said that in any form ALL the air scooped up by the air duct is pushed under the car. That I think a major design flaw and with this much work it simply bothers me to leave it that way. We hear what everone guesses about this and that on the internet. I have listened to people tell me what a bastard engine the 400 is. I like to go beyond the "Ideal internet answer". I feel stongly that the air flow is a major design flaw of the car and I am going to make the changes to my car. Only then can we see that "A" it was a waste of time or "B" HOlly cow, I never knew it could hold the road like this! I EXPECT improvements even at highway speeds and I don't see any negatives (other then a big hole in my hood).

This car was highly modified to start so I have no quams about more modification. It is a very solid platform to start. I have an early pushbutton which is next which will remain pretty much stock when I get to it.

Having said that in any form ALL the air scooped up by the air duct is pushed under the car.

Ok Gary, I'll have one more go with you and then drop it. I would contend the primary purpose of the dam isn't nor does it incidently "scoop up" ALL the air and deliver it under the car car via the cooling system. I guess I'm talking air dam and you're talking the stock radiator opening. -Peace. But a decent air dam will displace the air properly and though I certainly would not debate the point as to whether the tyypical widebody Pantera dam design was optimal in that regard, I also don't think it was such a flop that the majority of the air displaced by the dam finds it's way under the car due to the limited frontal area of the radiator, pressure drop through such, and the nature of the rest of the dam. I stand by my earlier remarks in regard to lift and I guess my primary point was put an effective air dam that puppy.

I have an early pushbutton which is next which will remain pretty much stock when I get to it.

Man, you're killing me. All I can do now is sign off, walk out in the garage, and mumble to myself as work on my EFI Big Grin. -You have all the fun.

Have a good holiday.

True I am talking about how the air is displaced after the air dam scoops it and the air dam does work well but the ducting afterwards defeats it. You have to admidt the air dam does scoop a lot of air and to throw it back under the car is the oposide of what it was trying to do in the first place.

Happy holidays, I am getting ready to go flying.

Little slow with the holidays.

Got the chin removed last night and the new chin from precisionproformance. I need to cut out more metal, blast and rebuild the channel on the inside. This is by far the worst spot on the car. It may be put on hold for a warm dry day to do more sand blasting in this area. I am going to make the screen removable.

New panel for this nose, other nose leaded and ready for final body work:

Originally posted by thewop:
Hi The pictures stopped coming in.Is there a hold on the project? Even little things are worth showing.Thanks for all the info so far

Hey sam, I submited some stuf to George for PI so I have not been posting as much.

I work like a turtle. I have had some stuff going on but I still get a few things done here and there. Front Valance is done, I got all the metal work done on the belly. Replaced several channel pieces including the pads for jacking the cars with 11 gauge steel and inner suports. Drain holes welded up. Working back to the engine bay. Got all the holes and eveything welded up on one side and now begining on the other side. There was a crappy repair job done on one of the suport members. Not only was it crappy but it was not properly boxed in. I am replacing it right now:

I have also located the 15" wheels I have been looking for and found tires for them. I only have one right now but this will allow me to work out the steering geometry with new a-arms and uprights and power steering. Lot of planning going on.

Originally posted by thewop:
Looks like a excellent fix compared to what was there.Don't you just hate having to redo someone else's work?Sometimes you wish things were better left alone until done properly.Can you show where you welded in the jack plates?
Thanks Sam

Sam that will be covered in the articles I submited to george.
My goodness me.
What an incredable posting/thread you guys. Well done, very informative... Thanks for all your trouble Gary/Ron,- you really should put it all together and publish it book kidding. Gr8 job.
You ask why no one has made repro. body panels yet, well in a small way we are here in S.A. - Its taken us a looong time to get it right, but we now have 'good' molds for 'proper' carbon fiber GRP4 flared fenders, door skins, big 'bunny-ears' side scoops, door skins, frt. & back deck lids, both with standard look and also ones with much bigger vents also frt & rear. All this fitted to my 76 'skinny body'. Theres a short video/audio clip of my car, (without the carbon body work,)- but with 180's and 48IDA's being yanked-on during tuneing of the carbon bits coming up on website soon. Read about all this on my new website just gone 'live'....article on the "Ultimate Pantera" we are building using these carbon panels attached to composite Nomex sandwhich chassis. No welding only glueing. Stronger, lighter. My chassis guy says the car will come in under 1900lbs. The composite chassis is 200lbs lighter than the metal space-frame chassis for the 32x GT40 replicas he has built over the years.. See pics on the to come.
I am going the full 'Mad Swede' Goran's weight loss diet; glass out, center consol out, useless popup lights out. ( we have saved 45lbs each side losing all the associated 'stuff' related to the popups) ..have gone projector lamps and perspex covers, like Goran.. Thought i'd pass this on.....Keep up the good work...
Building the trade show display made a mess of the barn. I spent a good portion of the spring cleaning the barn and re-organizing. I am hopefully back on track. I finished the final sandblasting and por15 of everything but body panels last weekend. I have already welded up the inner wheel well here:

Much general welding on the chassis is done but still a little to do. Soon start fabricating. The best part! Smiler

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