By far what your doing is the best way .. obviously even Detomaso didnt do as good of a job. Just make sure you blow some POR15 in the inside of frame rails and in the nooks and crannys.
I cant say I have BLASTED a car before .. but what I did do was acid dip a few ... after the dipped them they would dip it in a nuetralizer ... then send it home.. the car would start to rust within hours .. so it had to go right to my Garage then my process was qucikly wipe it down with A DUPONT Metal Prep mixed with water .. then a REDOXIDE primer .. after that the body work followed always capping the metal with REDOXIDE .. then a FILL AND SAND primer ... back 20 years ago it was all laquer based ..
Ive heard of the etching primer but have never used it ??? I cant wait to get to that stage.... I will be doing it slowly like you.
Ron
I really have reservations about acid dipping. These things have too many channels. I have heard of people who finished their restoration only to have the acid drip out on their paint first drive. That just concerns me. I have heard of some with accelerated rusting from the inside out too. If you can't get all the acid out how would you know if it has all been neutralized?
I intend to srpray inside the channels but I am not sure how to go abut doing it yet. I have some ideas.
The etch primer is a standard Dupont primer. The metal actually does not have to be roughed up for it. It will etch in and I like that. That's a good place to start. Guy at the paint shop said one of them actually got some on his glasses when he sprayed and it actually etched into his lenses.
This is the MG when it came back and now:
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/engine/e2b.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/etched1b.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/tunnel/cart1.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/gal/d1.jpg
I intend to srpray inside the channels but I am not sure how to go abut doing it yet. I have some ideas.
The etch primer is a standard Dupont primer. The metal actually does not have to be roughed up for it. It will etch in and I like that. That's a good place to start. Guy at the paint shop said one of them actually got some on his glasses when he sprayed and it actually etched into his lenses.
This is the MG when it came back and now:
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/engine/e2b.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/etched1b.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/tunnel/cart1.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/MGB/gal/d1.jpg
Ron, how far are you? Do you have a roto?
Gary
Gary
Acid dipping .. not sure how acid would run out .. it has consistancy of water and the Nuetralizer is a base that brings the acidity back to about 0 ... the issue is .. yes it tears up rust and usually eats it .. buit not to worry nobody does it any more. I like the glass .. I think soda is the best route and maybe a little glass or sand on the rust.
I heard the etching primer is the way to go .. that MG is a work of art. Is this your hooby or business ??
I'm stuck at the same point I was 6 months ago .. had to devote a lot of time to my Business as it need some restructuring .. like firing all Union employees in my office and starting a split shop. So the project suffered. And got married ... ok these are my excuses .. but the motor is well on its way .. i'll get some pics this week. 351W SVO block C302B heads off a alcohol blown drag car and we are building 393. solid roller 12 to 1 compression dry sump ... I wanna go racing. Ive been told PANTERA is not the car to do it IN ! BUT THATS WHAT I WANNA DO !
Ok here is the last pic of its present state
Ron
I heard the etching primer is the way to go .. that MG is a work of art. Is this your hooby or business ??
I'm stuck at the same point I was 6 months ago .. had to devote a lot of time to my Business as it need some restructuring .. like firing all Union employees in my office and starting a split shop. So the project suffered. And got married ... ok these are my excuses .. but the motor is well on its way .. i'll get some pics this week. 351W SVO block C302B heads off a alcohol blown drag car and we are building 393. solid roller 12 to 1 compression dry sump ... I wanna go racing. Ive been told PANTERA is not the car to do it IN ! BUT THATS WHAT I WANNA DO !
Ok here is the last pic of its present state
Ron
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Have you checked around to see who can do that work in your area? If you can get some one to blast it and prime it all you got to do is get it too them.
How does your car look? Probably hard to tell till you get it stripped.
You can race a shopping cart if the guy next to you want's to race!
G
How does your car look? Probably hard to tell till you get it stripped.
You can race a shopping cart if the guy next to you want's to race!
G
Lte me put it to you this way .. in my opinion .. this is the car to cut up ... everytime I turn it upside down sand comes out of it ... its not too rusty .. but it was bumped in the front left and on rocker was dented ... it has been worked on before ... thats why I'm still up in the aor about blasting it ... yes there is a blaster 30 min from me.... but dont think he will prime it ...
Ron
Ron
I forgot to answer, the MG is my first car. Just doing it for fun.
Body repairs would be the hardest but look at every thing underneith. Repairs are just work. Structure wise I don't think there is anything you or I couldn't cut out and replace. I stared at the frame work of this car for hours. I think we could have made the jigs and built these cars. It tells alot about a race car builder building cars in the early 70's. Pretty cool.
Body repairs would be the hardest but look at every thing underneith. Repairs are just work. Structure wise I don't think there is anything you or I couldn't cut out and replace. I stared at the frame work of this car for hours. I think we could have made the jigs and built these cars. It tells alot about a race car builder building cars in the early 70's. Pretty cool.
Can you make arangements with a body shop near by to get it etch primmed as soon as they get it stripped? If you get that much done, you are not on a time crunch to get the bare metal protected.
I can easily prime this up after they blast in in either my shop or my barn at home ... its just that I have to complete stripping the car of its parts .. only one thing makes me nervous is the electrical ... It not my strong point. I will be completing stripping this up coming weekend and calling the blaster ... just hop theres not too much metal work under the paint.
Ron
Ron
If it's blasted, the media leaves a residue that protects it from rust for a pretty long period of time. Just don't touch it with your hands or body as that takes away that protection and lets surface rust start. Besides, you don't want to prime until you've got as much of the media out as possible.
quote:Originally posted by jeff6559:
If it's blasted, the media leaves a residue that protects it from rust for a pretty long period of time. Just don't touch it with your hands or body as that takes away that protection and lets surface rust start. Besides, you don't want to prime until you've got as much of the media out as possible.
Blasting provides no measurable protection. Since soda or walnut shells don't get into the metal they don't expose it as much to fresh rust like sand or glass but there is a hint of rust if you look close in a very short period of time even in dry weather. There is no time to waste here! That is why I am going back over every inch right before I prime. Getting the media out is no issue. Roll the car around on the roto, vacume here, blow out there. Wherever sand or dry media is it will not create future problems like liquid. It is not going to get into a channel and start stripping anything on it's own. You only going to sand what can be primmed with an air gun so you can work the cavities latter anyway.
When I first put this car on a roto before stripping, some blasting material and some "bondo dust" came out from when the car was re-done in the 80's.
quote:Blasting provides no measurable protection. Since soda or walnut shells don't get into the metal they don't expose it as much to fresh rust like sand or glass but there is a hint of rust if you look close in a very short period of time even in dry weather.
Actually, I was talking about sand blasting since this would be on the shell of the car and it can easily handle the more aggressive media.
Sandblasting is the worst as it disrupts the surface and will begin to rust far quicker then a less agressive medea. There is no resedue to protect it.
The flairs as I said before were patch panels spot welded over the top. Ton of filler to make it smooth. This was where a lot of cracks were.
I cut the flair with a dremmel cut off tool. I cut about 8" at a time and the outer skin would line up then Mig weld a little as I go. After it was all tack welded then finished closing the gap. Nice and slow so it doesn't get hot or warp. Slowly grind it down.
Threw some acid etch primer over the left side, still more to do before the rest of it but the metal is now even across the fenders:
Overlap:
Cut and welded flush:
Getting there, more to gind:
I cut the flair with a dremmel cut off tool. I cut about 8" at a time and the outer skin would line up then Mig weld a little as I go. After it was all tack welded then finished closing the gap. Nice and slow so it doesn't get hot or warp. Slowly grind it down.
Threw some acid etch primer over the left side, still more to do before the rest of it but the metal is now even across the fenders:
Overlap:
Cut and welded flush:
Getting there, more to gind:
Gary,
Not sure I understand ... those are the exact flairs I just bought ... but I was thinking of putting the 3/4 flap behind and tacking it .. then welding the front edge. Your work look great... the MIG did a fine job.
Ok its coming back to me now .. I used a product called GORRILLA HAIR as a first coat over the welded seems ..this has fiberglass hairs in it with body putty and is mixed with hardener.. This is used to rebuild fiberglass bonding strips. It reinforces the seem with the fiberglass hairs. I wouldnt recommend finishing that seem with bondo alone. You could also use fiberglass mat and resin.
Ron
Not sure I understand ... those are the exact flairs I just bought ... but I was thinking of putting the 3/4 flap behind and tacking it .. then welding the front edge. Your work look great... the MIG did a fine job.
Ok its coming back to me now .. I used a product called GORRILLA HAIR as a first coat over the welded seems ..this has fiberglass hairs in it with body putty and is mixed with hardener.. This is used to rebuild fiberglass bonding strips. It reinforces the seem with the fiberglass hairs. I wouldnt recommend finishing that seem with bondo alone. You could also use fiberglass mat and resin.
Ron
I will look into thet Ron. If you look where the primer is there is no more seem. I still need to grind beyond the primmer (continuing to the right) which is why I only primered that far.
I think most flairs I have seen have the flair on top of the fender. If you look through the mags you will see them with the seem as part of the shape. For instance in front of me is Pantera International Spring 2005 #122. Look at the Hawaii Pantera starting on page 40.
I think most flairs I have seen have the flair on top of the fender. If you look through the mags you will see them with the seem as part of the shape. For instance in front of me is Pantera International Spring 2005 #122. Look at the Hawaii Pantera starting on page 40.
Yes I see what your saying ... you mean they try to simulate the mounting flange of the fiberglass flair where they rivet it on ??? Hmmm
Yes Spring 2006 page 22 both cars have what your saying .... ok i got it... missed that detail .. its a good thing I didnt start yet ...
Ok one more thing I just remembered .. theres a long dispute ... putting body filler on .. does it go over primer or on bare metal. I was taught on metal and check out autobodystore.net he did a test. the ebst result was over I think 120 grit prepared surface.
Ron
Yes Spring 2006 page 22 both cars have what your saying .... ok i got it... missed that detail .. its a good thing I didnt start yet ...
Ok one more thing I just remembered .. theres a long dispute ... putting body filler on .. does it go over primer or on bare metal. I was taught on metal and check out autobodystore.net he did a test. the ebst result was over I think 120 grit prepared surface.
Ron
"My Opinion" is best to get somehting on the metal first. I prefer the etch primer as I said before because it really digs into the steel.
Your right about the dispute about which goes first.When I took my apprenticeship for autobody in college they taught us to etch the steel and apply filler directly,so that is why there is a dispute.Many bodymen really don't want to do it any other way.There is really no way of knowing which is better.I personally like to apply filler over properly applied epoxy because you know that there will be no reactions with the catalyst in the filler and the steel.Using a high build epoxy is always best so that the material is not easily sanded off when you are shaping the filler.That's only my opinion . Sam
The proper way is to apply over the steel. Why ? because the epoxy is flexible and doesnt allow the bond to be created and thats how cracking starts. There is a way to tell which is better and AUTOBODYSTORE.NET ran a test ....check it out... whats really unusual is that the body filler bonded to metal that was sanded with 120 grit paper better then the one that was sanded with I think 40 grit. Look at the test they ran. Applying Epoxy and Etching primer is great .. a real break thru in primers ... one of the old prducts that was around 20 years ago was Eliminator 1100 was the same principle .. it mostly prevents shrinkage that years ago might bleed thru after the paint job is complete.
There are body fillers that are fiberglass based that prevent cracking .. that should be the first layer which add strenght to the seam.
Just my experience.
Ron
There are body fillers that are fiberglass based that prevent cracking .. that should be the first layer which add strenght to the seam.
Just my experience.
Ron