Thanks Dan,
Kudos to you as well. I love the process. I was just talking about how I need to trouble shoot an electrical problem on the Cutlass but how I would rather spend the afternoon cutting and welding on the Pantera. It just makes me feel like have done something. The last 10% of a restoration is the hardest for me.
Gotta have the highest respect for the man who strives for perfection in his car.The last 10%, yep I'm finally their now.
Dan
Dan
quote:Originally posted by Danno:
Gotta have the highest respect for the man who strives for perfection in his car.The last 10%, yep I'm finally their now.
Dan
Do you find the last few bugs....hard to work on?
I do, just a lttle burned out on it. As it stands now. The 17,000 stock engine needs seal/gasket kit and engine spray.The bell housing and engine mounts are already powder coated.Install flywheel,clutch, bellhousing and tranny. Drop her in and bolt half shafts and linkage up.Small stuff. Just stepping back for a while.Not sure if I'm going to install the stock motor or not.Would love the sound of a Dart Windsor stroker. This stuff is insane. We are never really done are we? Time for therapy from my therapy!!
Dan would love to see some more photos in your thread.
Gary
Gary
I'll take some late next week. My camera is on a weeks trip.
Dan
Dan
Ron I worked harder at recovering the sand today. I got a 2 gal bucket and screen wire. I filtered it then put it back in. When done I put some large trash bags in some small trash cans and put the filtered sand back in the trash cans for tomorrow. Worth while thing to do.
This is the 5th full day of sand blasting with por15 at the end of the day. This is a days worth:
This is the 5th full day of sand blasting with por15 at the end of the day. This is a days worth:
Looks great .. but why not etch prime the underside and paint with black enamel. Not familiar with POR15 ??? is it a brush application ??
R
R
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
Looks great .. but why not etch prime the underside and paint with black enamel. Not familiar with POR15 ??? is it a brush application ??
R
You can spray or brush it on. They have a website for additional information. www.por-15.com
Ron Por15 is a rust protectant. You can brush it right over rust. It is why the British car guys love it for their retsorations. A lot of poeple rave on it. I was on the fence weather to do the underbelly and chassis with it but finally decided to. It needed a rough surface to adhere to. It gave you some options. It said just knock the rust off and coat. I wanted as much rust as I could get to gone so I wasn't going to just put this over rust. I may spray this in all the channels though.
It said you could use their acid metal prep before hand but then wash it off. I thought this was not the best idea. Where does it go and how do you control the resedue. If you wash it off won't it rust up then? Next it said to either sand or sandblast. I decided to blast.
Supose to be tenatious stuff. It actually cures from moisture so if moisture is present it sucks it out. It actually says best put on dry and cured in a damp environment. What are we the weathermen?
Can be primed, painted and should be topcoated as it will fade in UV. I thought I would use it for non-body parts; especially underbelly and areas hard to get to. That way if I did not get it 100% blasted I still have some protection.
More photos from today:
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6a.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6c.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6d.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6f.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6g.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6h.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6i.jpg
I figure probably 3 more days on the chassis.
Gary
It said you could use their acid metal prep before hand but then wash it off. I thought this was not the best idea. Where does it go and how do you control the resedue. If you wash it off won't it rust up then? Next it said to either sand or sandblast. I decided to blast.
Supose to be tenatious stuff. It actually cures from moisture so if moisture is present it sucks it out. It actually says best put on dry and cured in a damp environment. What are we the weathermen?
Can be primed, painted and should be topcoated as it will fade in UV. I thought I would use it for non-body parts; especially underbelly and areas hard to get to. That way if I did not get it 100% blasted I still have some protection.
More photos from today:
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6a.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6c.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6d.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6f.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6g.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6h.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/day6i.jpg
I figure probably 3 more days on the chassis.
Gary
Great progress ...
Forgot to take pics ... but today I got almost the entire car chemically stripped ... I'm up in the air .. I think I'm gonna rent the compressor and blaster and do it myself. Not sure what media to use .. maybe sand since I will have all the body panels stripped.
Tell you something funny .. the car had BONDO in alot of places for NO REASON ... after removing it I found the panels are straight ...
Another thing the car had a nose put on it .. what appears to be when it was NEW ... the seems are finished with LEAD and a real nice job. So monday I progress further and by next weekend I plan to rent the BLASTER.
Pic tomorrow.
Forgot to take pics ... but today I got almost the entire car chemically stripped ... I'm up in the air .. I think I'm gonna rent the compressor and blaster and do it myself. Not sure what media to use .. maybe sand since I will have all the body panels stripped.
Tell you something funny .. the car had BONDO in alot of places for NO REASON ... after removing it I found the panels are straight ...
Another thing the car had a nose put on it .. what appears to be when it was NEW ... the seems are finished with LEAD and a real nice job. So monday I progress further and by next weekend I plan to rent the BLASTER.
Pic tomorrow.
Ok forgot one question .. so the POR15 you paint over it ??
Ron
Ron
Ron in nose and everwhere you see red:
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/blast2.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/blast7.jpg
When you get some photos start a dual thread.
Kudos with the chemical stripper! I have been recovering my sand and only used 2 brand new bags the etire day. I have been having difficulty with the moisture. It has been a little more humid today and the sand kept clogging up. I am thinking of getting the HF refrigerated line drier. I ended up removing the 9/32 and the entire hose attatchment on the end and simply pushing in an air attatchment plug into the hose. The hole was bigger and the velocity was down but it didn't clog. I covered more ground to start but ran out of good air pressure quicker with the big hole. I also did not have as much cleaning power with the bigger hole.
Glad today is over. This will give me plenty to work on in the garage for a while.
G
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/blast2.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/blast/blast7.jpg
When you get some photos start a dual thread.
Kudos with the chemical stripper! I have been recovering my sand and only used 2 brand new bags the etire day. I have been having difficulty with the moisture. It has been a little more humid today and the sand kept clogging up. I am thinking of getting the HF refrigerated line drier. I ended up removing the 9/32 and the entire hose attatchment on the end and simply pushing in an air attatchment plug into the hose. The hole was bigger and the velocity was down but it didn't clog. I covered more ground to start but ran out of good air pressure quicker with the big hole. I also did not have as much cleaning power with the bigger hole.
Glad today is over. This will give me plenty to work on in the garage for a while.
G
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
Ok forgot one question .. so the POR15 you paint over it ??
Ron
Yes but I think it more for underbelly, up around the radiator, in the headlight area, under fenders.
http://nomorerust.com
http://www.coolcarceramic.com/index.htm
Here's a couple of other ones to consider.
http://www.coolcarceramic.com/index.htm
Here's a couple of other ones to consider.
I have to commend both of you for the excellent post....its been fun watching the progress.
One question Comp2.....how did you get the p-car on and off the rotissare?
One question Comp2.....how did you get the p-car on and off the rotissare?
quote:Originally posted by Fahrenheit351:
I have to commend both of you for the excellent post....its been fun watching the progress.
One question Comp2.....how did you get the p-car on and off the rotissare?
I have a chassis dolly I jack up and down. You can see here when I was fabbing up the roto:
Gary
When I get ready to work on the hood I am going to duct all the air out the hood instead of under the car. I am thinking of reversing this beam to see if that gives me enough air flow with a laydown:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by comp2:
When I get ready to work on the hood I am going to duct all the air out the hood instead of under the car. I am thinking of reversing this beam to see if that gives me enough air flow with a laydown:
You do great work and I'm sure if you did it, you would do it well. Are you thinking ala GT40 and prefer that look? I think it depends more upon the look you wish to achieve. FWIW, I don't think it's needed from a cooling standpoint. IMO, the only cooling challenge to a Pantera is at rest, not at speed. This is so provided you have selected a good, properly sized, aluminum radiator, sucker plenum, and fans. This is especially the case with increased HP. There is sufficient room to accomplish this without mod. None of the small hood grilles can flow enough air to make a material difference, thus your remarks about the need for doing something more significant. There may be a minor arguement to be made about control of air flow under the car, but again, I don't think it significant.
Keep up the good work. I enjoy watching your progress and the quality of your work.
Kelly
When I get ready to work on the hood I am going to duct all the air out the hood instead of under the car. I am thinking of reversing this beam to see if that gives me enough air flow with a laydown:
You do great work and I'm sure if you did it, you would do it well. Are you thinking ala GT40 and prefer that look? I think it depends more upon the look you wish to achieve. FWIW, I don't think it's needed from a cooling standpoint. IMO, the only cooling challenge to a Pantera is at rest, not at speed. This is so provided you have selected a good, properly sized, aluminum radiator, sucker plenum, and fans. This is especially the case with increased HP. There is sufficient room to accomplish this without mod. None of the small hood grilles can flow enough air to make a material difference, thus your remarks about the need for doing something more significant. There may be a minor arguement to be made about control of air flow under the car, but again, I don't think it significant.
Keep up the good work. I enjoy watching your progress and the quality of your work.
Kelly
Kelly .. you have a good point .. two things come to mind.
The stock hood vents ? Well from the looks of them on 9138 .. between the grilles and screens the measure maybe 12" x 4 " = 48 square inches x 2 grilles 96 sq inches ..then subtract the grilles every 1/2" which easily cuts the free area in half 48 sq inches then the screen .. every 1/8 inch .. cuts the free area in half again .. 24 sq inches then the mounting frame .. around the edge ... THESE STOCK GRILLES are eye candy .. they do practically nothing ... so with that said any other type of hood grille would benefit over the stock .... my opinion.
Ron
The stock hood vents ? Well from the looks of them on 9138 .. between the grilles and screens the measure maybe 12" x 4 " = 48 square inches x 2 grilles 96 sq inches ..then subtract the grilles every 1/2" which easily cuts the free area in half 48 sq inches then the screen .. every 1/8 inch .. cuts the free area in half again .. 24 sq inches then the mounting frame .. around the edge ... THESE STOCK GRILLES are eye candy .. they do practically nothing ... so with that said any other type of hood grille would benefit over the stock .... my opinion.
Ron