351 Cleveland Intake Manifold GUIDE Studs 5/16"

Thanks, Marlin 🙂

I have that trick in my memory and it was very likely from your earlier posting. I used it a few months ago when replacing my intake manifold.

to add a little helpful addition to your directions, I take a small cut-off wheel in my Dremel rotary tool and slice a groove in the top of each stud, suitable for a flat blade screwdriver. Easier than fussing with pliers if a stud somehow manages to get wedged or over tightened  

Larry

...A Smart Improvement!

MJ

I wish you would have posted that two weeks ago. Installing my performer was not fun. You could use this trickery on just about any engine. Has anyone used the rope trick for changing valve spring on a  engine with the heads still on. I was schooled by a old timer aviation mechanic.

Marlin, great suggestion.  Thank you.  I just had my manifold off twice and this would have helped.

...Steve, there will be a Next Time.

Yes! I have done the 'rope trick'. When time to remove the rope, found it trapped under the opposite valve. Just needed a little 'Finagling', crank movement, to get it loose. IT WORKED! for changing springs.

MJ

Thanks for posting, Marlin.  I started using that stud trick back in the 60's with the Windsor engines, including cutting the "removal" slot (as Larry posted).  

I first learned (and used) the rope trick about forty years ago.

John

Marlin

would a similar set up work also for the exhaust manifold? As to set that up in my case was a night mare..due to small missalignment, as the 4 tubes are not connected  by a steal plate but separat..took me def 4..hours to set both up serving  by rope and lever

@Donny Dotson posted:

Has anyone used the rope trick for changing valve spring on a  engine with the heads still on. I was schooled by a old timer aviation mechanic.

Wow. That REALLY brings back an old memory. We used the rope trick to replace a broken valve spring in my buddy's car when I worked at a Mobil station in 1967!

I have, worked fine

Robe trick did NOT work on 327..chev..(I have both 351 Pantera  and 327! C2) .

rope in rope out is ok but..
1) you need a STRONG air compressur to keep the the valve up..as you need to hammer!!
2) if the engine is "old" after last overh. the valve shaft you want to get lose is stick in the vale shaft per the disks on top of the springs .. so the 2 vale shaft fixtures (on thje top of the spring "plate"..my language is not good here) towards the spring will nerver pop out ...this a job for a rubber hammer!!!! You need a tool 17 mm or adeq. to do this
3) I did one on my 327 worked out cumbersumly after "HAMMERIG" the spring etc down to so got the set up loose..
4) putting it back (hydros) was bad as had a lot of missfire for net 5 miles until it did seat again

enjoy...my Pantera GTS 4907 is top ..all modernized from scratch

@matg posted:

Marlin

would a similar set up work also for the exhaust manifold? As to set that up in my case was a night mare..due to small missalignment, as the 4 tubes are not connected  by a steal plate but separat..took me def 4..hours to set both up serving  by rope and lever

...You should try it! Screwing in All 8 studs. I think it would work for you. 'Leverage' (wood or plastic lever) each primary sliding onto it's pair of studs, and use 12 point Nuts. The only problem would be to securely LOCK the Nuts, and the Studs, from loosening.

MJ

Tx Marlin,

so far all in,  all good but was  night mare. as above

I would improve the model by just using a metal saw and ADD at the outer end a "cut", so I can use screw driver to get the studds out....on exhaused side (intake is I judge good per your exp., TOP)

TX to the easy but BIG VALUE insight

(securing look nuts: the car came with intersting I have never seen "looks" per washer with small theeth, they go OVER the very speacil bolds (with a trenche/gap) and lock against the tubes ..cool suff )

Danke

Mat