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...For those who will install their next 351C Intake Manifold. I've been doing this trick for the last dozen 'Manifold' exchanges/experiments. I Posted this a few years back. Received acknowledgement from One (1) Person...and, have not seen it discussed here, as Yet.

Upon ready to Install Your Manifold. A Tip:

Take (4) 5/16" -18, BOLTS, 3 Inches long and hacksaw the heads off.

Screw the bolts into the 4 central tapped holes, 'Finger Snug'. Remember you'll have to un-screw them afterwards, again, using your fingers.

These four studs, now in the only true straight-up holes, will allow the manifold to be Slid Straight-Down and onto the Already Placed Intake Gaskets and End Seals/Gaskets or Silicone. Guaranteed Nothing less than an Exact Alignment, In One Try! A Blind Man could Place it Perfectly! NO offense. NO shifting the Manifold around to align the Other Bolt Holes. The Bonus here, is the studs keep the gaskets from slipping-down...Too Far.

Now, start ALL other bolts with fingers (and Don't forget the Washers)*, THEN you can remove the (4)  5/16" studs and replace with Bolts. Torque to Specs, in the Correct Pattern!

Makes the Job More Fun, and keeps the Gaskets, Covering the Ports.

* And remember...the Accelerator Cable End Mount, goes Under the Forward/Left, Bolt.

MJ351 Intake manifold GUIDE Studs   


Images (1)
  • 351 Intake manifold GUIDE Studs
Last edited by marlinjack
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Thanks, Marlin 🙂

I have that trick in my memory and it was very likely from your earlier posting. I used it a few months ago when replacing my intake manifold.

to add a little helpful addition to your directions, I take a small cut-off wheel in my Dremel rotary tool and slice a groove in the top of each stud, suitable for a flat blade screwdriver. Easier than fussing with pliers if a stud somehow manages to get wedged or over tightened  


Robe trick did NOT work on 327..chev..(I have both 351 Pantera  and 327! C2) .

rope in rope out is ok but..
1) you need a STRONG air compressur to keep the the valve you need to hammer!!
2) if the engine is "old" after last overh. the valve shaft you want to get lose is stick in the vale shaft per the disks on top of the springs .. so the 2 vale shaft fixtures (on thje top of the spring "plate" language is not good here) towards the spring will nerver pop out ...this a job for a rubber hammer!!!! You need a tool 17 mm or adeq. to do this
3) I did one on my 327 worked out cumbersumly after "HAMMERIG" the spring etc down to so got the set up loose..
4) putting it back (hydros) was bad as had a lot of missfire for net 5 miles until it did seat again Pantera GTS 4907 is top ..all modernized from scratch

Last edited by matg
@matg posted:


would a similar set up work also for the exhaust manifold? As to set that up in my case was a night mare..due to small missalignment, as the 4 tubes are not connected  by a steal plate but separat..took me def 4..hours to set both up serving  by rope and lever

...You should try it! Screwing in All 8 studs. I think it would work for you. 'Leverage' (wood or plastic lever) each primary sliding onto it's pair of studs, and use 12 point Nuts. The only problem would be to securely LOCK the Nuts, and the Studs, from loosening.


Last edited by marlinjack

Tx Marlin,

so far all in,  all good but was  night mare. as above

I would improve the model by just using a metal saw and ADD at the outer end a "cut", so I can use screw driver to get the studds out....on exhaused side (intake is I judge good per your exp., TOP)

TX to the easy but BIG VALUE insight

(securing look nuts: the car came with intersting I have never seen "looks" per washer with small theeth, they go OVER the very speacil bolds (with a trenche/gap) and lock against the tubes suff )



Last edited by matg

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