Why does the tube extend so far into the block? My stock dipstick is beat up and is loose as a goose where it goes into the block. I tried sealing it with Black Ultra RTV and it slowed it down but, it's still leaking. Is there better quality dipstick and tube with O-ring type lower connection that readily available??
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Does anyone use a standard Lockar dipstick on there car? does it stick up to the top of the valve cover? If it does I can get my fat carcass in there to check it.
You could probably get one that would access through the deck while the deck is closed.
Yes, I and others have installed Lokar dip sticks.
A standard dipstick is almost useless and inaccessible in our cars. I personally bought a unit that was customized to the proper length
do a forum search for Lokar and you will find all that you need if you wish to go this direction.
Larry
Does the Lokar tube go deep in the block like the stock ones do? Is the tube extended to guide the dipstick threw the baffle in a stock or a Pantera oil pan?
Yes and yes
for more information on the Lokar go to this thread, scroll down and find my post where I outline the Lokar details
https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...air-cleaner-for-2511
Larry
Do you have a pic of what it looks like in your car? Is there only one bracket? And you said you needed to cut yours about an inch? Am I starting to bug you?
I don't see it
I just got off the phone with the dipstick people. They will not make the tube longer than 24" and they are 16 weeks out ( I could be dead by then ) they can take a hike. I'm going to make my POS work.
Larry - that is a sweet looking dipstick . So slick.
I did upgrade my beaten up old dipstick tube with a new stainless unit from Halls. Fit was pretty good and I backfilled the engine with exactly the right volume of oil ( in my case a shaving over 7 liters with the hungry sump) and then trimmed the tube back to show the correct level on the original dipstick with this volume.
Works well and is easy to access.
I think I cut around a combined 23mm off to get to the right level. I used a mini tube cutter to avoid any cutting shavings dropping into the tube.
I got my POS dip tube to quit leaking and then I found out I had another slight leak coming from the lower driver side of the timing cover. I elected to remove the engine to see what was up cause it looked to be doable with engine in but a pain in the ass ( 2 hours and 15 min to yank the engine. ) I found the Speedmaster timing cover I bought was defective ( the name should be Leakmaster ) The radiused seal holder welded to the cover is missing a small section of material that should mate with the block and support the seal. I wish I would have looked at it closer when I assembled the engine. One more hard lesson to learn, so I will not by anything with name Speedmaster on it ever again. Don't make the same mistake I did. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
Here is a pic of the Leakmaster timing cover. I should have known better but , I thought the people that made this POS knew what they were doing.
