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Picture_1While my planned debut of my most recent endeavors was to be at next week's Concorso Italiano, you my friends get a sneak peek.

Of course, I had done a lot of prior planning and measuring; cardboard templates using website measurements, staring and thinking - you guys know the drill. But once I finally took the leap and began, this was one of those projects that just kept growing. I just kept at it and solved whatever came up; couldn't just throw in the towel at that point. Wink

The air plenum is a Spectre product - part #98599. It is cast aluminum and easily fits under my stock screen; it sits directly on the carb flange and has about 1/2" top clearance.

Link to Spectre page:

I added two Spectre 4" diameter, 90 degree elbows and capped it off with two K&N cone filters.

In order for it to fit,I first needed to remove the stock engine oil dipstick tube. So I ordered a custom flexible, braided SS Lokar oil dipstick/tube unit. To get it installed meant opening the firewall cover and removal of the alternator. I bent the Lokar-supplied bracket for the rear-most mount, fabricated another valvecover mounted support bracket from strip aluminum, and held the front portion in place with an Adel clamp mounted to a fabricated bracket on the front of the cylinder head.

THEN, I had the coolant tanks to deal with. I drained the system first and tried Plan A. I initially figured I had to relocate the surge tank to a lower position to clear the filter, but that wound up not being so simple as it hit the header tubes just before it found air filter clearance. So, I fabricated a simple bracket to relocate both tanks into the overflow tank area. Had to remove the remains of the charcoal canister bracket, and then (because it was now just an ugly unused piece of metal) remove the stock surge tank mounting bracket, too. Of course the nice SS coolant tubes no longer headed to the surge tank fittings. So, both of the pipes had to be removed and then cut-trial fit-cut until they would work. I sourced some 45 degree hose elbows of molded silicone, cut down the hoses to proper lengths and put things back together.

While I was at it, I flipped the chromed dual-inlet fitting to the Holley, so the rubber fuel line is now up front by the distributor and out of sight instead of curving around the backside of the engine.

The ends of the filters just clear the luggage tub by about 1/2", the valve covers by about 1/4" and the engine screen by about 1/4".

A LOT more work than I had envisioned, but then.....isn't it always that way?

But at the end of it all, I am very pleased with the final look.



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Last edited by lf-tp2511
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Nice looking setup Larry and clean with the screen on.

I wish it would work with my torker intake or my new set up with the RPM AirGap but it'll sit too high to fit under my engine screen.

congrats on a successful upgrade.

>>Where did you buythe Lokar extended dipstick setup? I find I need one with my new setup because I'm now using Ford Racing tall valve covers<<<
>>Where did you buythe Lokar extended dipstick setup? I find I need one with my new setup because I'm now using Ford Racing tall valve covers<<<

Direct from Lokar - about $150.

For the Pantera, each one is considered a 'custom'. Study my photos and you will see the Lokar mounting bracket is off the last valve cover bolt.

Specs must be in writing for them to proceed.

I sent them this:


I spoke with service rep Eric several weeks ago. I believe this will provide the required information for my order.

Engine is Ford 351 Cleveland

Car is 1972 De Tomaso Pantera

Dipstick measurements:

Hole in block for dipstick tube is 3/8” – 0.375”

Length of tube beyond entrance point in block is ten inches – 10”
Amount of dipstick that extends beyond end of tube in the block is 3 1/4 “

Length of tube from block entrance to mounting point is twenty-eight inches – 28”

Please provide the longer mounting bracket – 2 7/8”

Customer name: LARRY FINCH
559-281-3497 PST

Please phone to confirm order details and obtain billing information.


I thought the length would be a bit much, but it turned out to be just fine. The braided SS can be shortened at home - just regular SS hose fittings.

You might order a bit longer to cover for your routing. Each inch is a couple $ more, though.

Once you get your old unit out, you can adjust the dipstick length to match what you find on the OEM unit.

More questions, just ask.

Not to be the naysayer, but placing the air filters directly over the exhaust headers is possibly the worst position to introduce the coolest air into the engine. A heat shield between the headers and the air filters would be an improvement. Good looking design, but "Form over Function"
Good looking design, but "Form over Function"

Understand your concerns.

However, compared to the stock 14" round cleaner I previously used - like most cars - I think moving the intake away from the firewall may in fact put the intake in a cooler, higher air-flow location.

Most of the new filters (like 90%) are now NOT under the screen (which surely holds heat despite the holes), whereas MOST of the 14" was under the screen.

Most of the new filters are in fact rearward of the headers, as opposed to the 14" unit that was all located above the headers.

Finally, the new filters have available air flow from above, whereas the old 14" only sourced air from the sides. The L/R sides of the 14" unit were getting air from above the headers, the front center from the firewall area (likely a pretty hot and low-air-movement area), and the rear center from above the intake manifold.

No real way for me to test intake air temperatures, but to my way of thinking, I think the new filters are surely no worse, and probably better, in sourcing 'cool' air.

Of course, 'cool' air in a Pantera engine bay is highly rare animal. Wink

Last edited by lf-tp2511
Hey Larry, I just read an article in 'Modified Mustangs & Fords' about cold air systems from Spectre. I didn't know they had low profile air boxes as well as cone filters that fit inside the 4" intake tubes now. So, I will probably revisit this again to see if it's possible to feed from the air scoops 'ears'(not the Hall elephant ears)that replaces the two rear quarter windows while still keeping my engine cover.

Thanks again for sharing.
Looks great. Not to get off topic, but I just bought one of these for almost the exact same application; however, I couldn't get it plumbed like I had hoped. I had hoped to use some of their connectors to plumb in some fresh air, but I guess I will have to wait until I have more time. After 7+ months in the shop for a rebuild, I finally settled on a Holley "dog bone" style to get my car going again. I'll post pictures shortly.

Needless to say - I now have a spare in case anyone is looking for the same style.
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