Hmm
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Great day today… isn’t it….
fixed a few more wires, and decided to take the dimmer switch apart…
if you look closely you see that the wire is broken… 
fixed that and cleaned and greased the switch… put everything back together and… everything is working… 0 to 35.4 Ohm
and 17 seconds after that glorious moment Larry came by…
what a fabulous day
Now I go for my electric stuff I am adding..,,
hooking up the power steering, second set of headlights, new ignition switch, starter button etc. etc……
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Guys.....where is the coat hanger engineering team here!!!????? You can EASILY check for closed/open chamber heads with a danged piece of coat hanger, or if you prefer more hitech, welding rod......
Bend it to some shape that you can get in the spark plug hole and get it back up on the head chamber surface. Piston down in the bore would help....
Then you move the coat hanger etc in and out and feel for the contour of the chamber....is it flat then suddenly drops off, or vice versa.... or does it just seem sorta "the same" all the way in and out.........
Your cylinder head dates will also give you back up....in the event that you have a valve cover off..... A 73-74 head will be open chamber. I don't think I've ever seen anything refute that in any of the "How to....SBF" books....
We know that 71's will be closed chambers as the engines are (supposed to be) 351CJ Mustang/Cougar/Fairlane/Comet engines. 72 can get a bit iffy.....with some of the early cars potentially getting closed camber and later cars the open.....but with DeT's perhap lack of order.....it could be a crap shoot.
If you have your little aluminum tag on the intake somewhere with the engine code on it, you can look that up in the FORD MPC (Master Parts Catalog) for the type of engine it is...... I believe that I and perhaps others have posted pictures of that particular page or two.
Don't work so hard!
Steve