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Pooky, I looked into the same spacer for my car as I too do not like the funny angle the Edelbrock intake manifold provides. What I should have done is dry fit the manifold with the engine in the car and then machine off on a mill only the amount required off of the intake manifold. Unfortunately I did not think quite that far ahead and I did not want to remove it. The Moroso angle spacer was almost twice the angle required to level the carburator. What I decided to do was buy a solid aluminum 1" spacer and remove 3/8" from one side only. Worked well and the carb is now level. Dont expect to fit an air cleaner under the engine screen if you choose to do this. As stated before I think the better option is to machine the intake manifold. Hope that helps
What I should have done is dry fit the manifold with the engine in the car and then machine off on a mill only the amount required off of the intake manifold.

That's what I did - took my intake manifold to my local machinist and he milled it flat; had to weld up the vacuum port at the back too.
Scott Cook is an Australian fellow who manufactures a copy of the factory 351C intake manifold for stuffed 4V port type heads. According to Scott the carb pad angle on the oem manifold is only about 4 degrees (I forget the exact number). This really surprised me because the wedge shaped spacers designed for boats are about 10 degrees, so I always assumed that was the angle of the carb pad on the manifold too.

I'll just reinforce what has already been said ... if you want to level your carburetor the best thing to do is have the manifold's carb pad milled flat, since its only at a 4 degree angle it won't take much machining.

The Spacer I have is a 5d angle, I dry fitted the spacer and it looks like it is about the 1d (about 1/8") to the rear but I'm in the garage and the floor is tilted to the rear, even so I'm a hell of a lot closer to level than I was before. I also checked the air cleaner (not stock) and it appears to still fit. I'm also going to change the squirter from a 31 to a 33 based on info from the Vette club site to help with the flat spot. I'll take some pictures and post on the progress. Thanks guys for the input.

So last night I insalled the spacer and carb. It all fit under the engine cover with about 1/4" plus space of deflection at the air cleaner bolt. I couldn't start her up yet for want of a 3/8"x3/8" coupling for the new pressure regulator to fuel line connection but hope this is taken care of today.



Last edited by pooky
I had to use a 1 degree angled spacer to get my air cleaner to fit properly under my hatches in the Mangusta due to the Edelbrock RPM intake swap being taller...I'm talking about getting the trig tables out and figuring how much angle change at the carb flange equals how much up/down action at the outer circumference of the air cleaner! Short story, is that once machined, it worked like a champ! I used a 3/8" common intake spacer and had it altered to the desired degree of tilt.

BUT, what I am trying to get at, is the sexy self leveling washers that I picked up through Fastenal or MSC, that allow me to tighten the carb down without having to worry about straightening the studs out! Two piece washers fit into each other and move allowing the nut to fit down flat on the washer, and the other washer to sit down flat on the carb flange. No odd looking half cocked nuts here!

Ping me if you wanna try some of these and I'll dig out my receipt and get you name and numbers.


Picture shows 1 degree spacer in front, and a 3.3 degree spacer in the rear IIRC...!


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  • aircleanerfab25
Last edited by mangusta
I ended up getting some thick washers for the studs and just grinding them down to the right angle but everything fit under the cover and the carb seems to be running happy now. Milling the intake is probably the correct way to do it but the Moroso spacer does work for me. Your milage may very.

Steve in VA
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