Another Radiator Prob x3

It's not what you're doing. I have two Hall radiators in two different bone stock cars, both leaked within a year. Bad workmanship period. To have all the joints re soldered cost almost as much as a new one.

What are you doing about the leaks? Just living with them?

No, I removed one, and like I said had it repaired locally. The other one I haven't gotten out yet. They are well designed radiators but poorly assembled.

I'm going to need a third one, and I think I'll just have it disassembled and fixed before installing.

Aluminum rads are particularly sensitive to internal corrosion from acidic local water. Many aluminum radiator suppliers now include a bottle of No-Rosion or something similar to counteract this. We humans can tolerate acidic drinks but alloys are less able to. 'Coke' will DISSOLVE a piece of aluminum over a short time. Note also that Corvettes & Z-28s have had aluminum radiators since about 1969 as stock. 'Vette owners often use sacrificial anodes of magnesium or other active metals suspended in coolant, for corrosion protection.

You can check your car for galvanic corrosion quite simply: from the 'Vette guys, pull the radiator cap and stick a probe from a good VOM, set on the lowest possible amp setting, in the coolant while grounding the other lead. A reading of over about 75 milliamps means ALL the light alloys in your cooling system are actively dissolving including radiators, aftermarket water pumps etc. But it DOES have to be a good VOM; $5 meters from a generic auto supply are just not sensitive enough. pH paper from a swimming pool supplier will also work: it should show above pH 7. Note this also applies to copper rads as well.

Another interesting thing: with the good VOM still connected and showing a high reading, turn on the headlights: if the meter reading increases, you also have grounding issues in your Pantera. You can progressively pull fuses while watching the meter to help trace the problem. Our '72 has had the same Fluidyne rad' in place since 2002 with no issues; N. Nevada water analyzes as nearly pure H2O, though. though. Good luck-

The water here is not hard. The new Hall radiator is brass/copper so I thought it would last longer than 1year before leaking. Not likely that corrosion is a problem. Like RRS1 replied its possibly just a bad radiator. If so I have no luck now on my 3rd radiator and maybe needing to buy another one. Would like to eliminate all issues if any with my car that could be causing radiator leaks.

soldering tends to be a better fix for cracking vs corrosion.
are you are completely confident there is no mechanical stress on your radiator?
everything lines up well no tweaking to get a bolt in? rubber bushings in place and effective?
crossmember solid, no body flex?
my hall radiator still tight 11 years on.

I have the original radiator in mine. I've owned the car since 1985. I never have had to repair it.
I have the original radiator in my 68 Shelby GT350. It has never been repaired.
Maybe something else is going on there for you?

Yes, what is going on is they don't make'em like they used to!

Picture of leak on side of radiator. Notice discoloration and rust.
I installed the radiator loose and the appropriate rubber grommets and spacers but it doesn't move around at all because of the water hoses holding it in place.