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3840 is now on the button and running again after its repairs since last summer when I took out the engine to tidy up the engine bay.

So its now time to get the car ready for a journey to the paint shop for a re spray.

I have all the lights, bumpers, headlamp buckets removed, and now I want to take off the gutter section which also goes down the B post.
Its held with several pop rivets which I have drilled out, but it seems that the gutter section is also glued onto the body???????
Can someone who knows give me some advice please.

I would like to remove the windscreen but the cost of a new rubber not to mention the £850 it would cost if I cracked it is not a runner.

the rubber has 4 strips of metal finishers around the screen, the bottom one is slightly bent, It looks as though someone has previously tried to remove it, bent it a little and then just replaced it. The question is do these just push into the rubber??? I don't want to damage them further!!
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Once you have drilled out the pop rivits on the drip rail trim, you might need to use a flat screw driver or better yet a putty knife to GENTLY pry the trim loose from the car. There is a adhesive that was used along with the pop rivits.
The windshield trim has a "J" shape type bend that holds it into the rubber gasket. The only way to get the trim out of the gasket with out bending it, is to remove the windshield. same with installing the trim. Windshield removal can be tricky. You might be surprised what a little heat on lubricant can do to make that gasket useable again. I have had several out and with a little cleaning and lube, have been able to reuse them with no problem.
I have removed a couple of windshields from panteras by myself but would strongly suggest having 2 people, and don't rush it, take your time.
Best of luck, take photos and let us know how it turned out.
Hello Husker and Quickitty

You are both spot on, I only know this for I have been speaking to Johnny Woods who kindly explained the way to do the job, you just cannot beat experience when doing this kind of thing.

So I have the answers I was looking for but can anybody help me with a new/used windscreen trim section, apparently a repair is possible but doubtful to be perfect.
Its the bottom one of the four around the screen
perhaps some chap who has now gone to a bonded windscreen could help in this case
best Pete.
Well I must say it went far better than I ever thought it would I managed it by,

lifting the rubber on the outside of the screen softening the sealer with WD40 all the way around
so I could run a steel 6" rule around the whole
windscreen.

I then squirted copious amounts of soapy liuid around the same place.

From the inside i made sure the top and both ides of the rubber would peel back easily, and down the both sides I held the rubber away with 3 pieces of thin steel.


Pressing gently along the top of the screen it popped out easily, with the help of her indoors (Wife) we then carried it to the front garden.

The side gutter strips were more difficult, but again with WD40 and a 6" rule gradually easing it away from the body, it finally submitted.


I did find that drilling off the pop rivet heads still held the gutter though so then I drilled the whole rivets out.
Many thanks to all for their help, it WAS needed and appreciated.
Peter, that adhesive on the stainless trim was added by a previous owner, not the factory. It may be that the PO could not get the trim to lay down properly so he glued it. Or, disturbing the windscreen gasket in any way often creates water leaks- most often, around the gasket-to-body seal. I have seen Panteras that were perforated with big rust holes clear through the windshield channel and down under the dash. One had such a bad leak, the relays under the dash were full of rusty water!

Adding non-glass-specific RTV from a hardware store to fix a leak generates corrosive acetic acid under the gasket during cure that then attacks the steel channel holding the gasket. Although the leak may stop, the resulting corrosion begins to attack the car's structure.

Replacing the $225 windshield gasket is not a sure cure either. I recommend glass-specific RTV if you do have a windshield leak; this kind exhudes a vapor during cure that is non-corrosive and quickly dissipates without damage. Glass shops the world over know this and sell glass RTV in clear, black and white. If you smell vinegar from your RTV, its the wrong kind for glass!

Straightening the stainless trim to fit a windshield gasket is a long, arduous process. At this point, consider just leaving it off.
Peter, you may have said, but is yours an official Euro GTS?

The reason I ask is that fancy "alancantra" mole-skin on the dash. I remember your pictures, but I can't remember if that is the original look.

Also curious as to the condition of the steel under the windshield gasket? Any issues?

Just curious about your progress (as I think everyone else is too!) - looks good!

Rocky
Hello Rocky,
yes my 3840 is a Euro GTS model, the car was originally sold to a customer in Turin, as the car still had the original Turin number plate fitted when I bought it from the USA.

The original dash was Alcantara, but had lost its knap (unsure if thats the right word ) and was smooth so I had it replaced, all the instruments are Italian, i.e. Benzine etc etc,
but discs are solid and wheels 7" and the rears 8"

I have tried to contact Santiago De Tomaso twice
to find out some history but he hasn't replied.
The steel under the screen is not too bad, see pic.
My car also has the fibreglass wing extensions
but look a bit odd, for the wheels appear too small for the arches, one day when I win the lottery I will buy 2 rear 10 inch Alloy wheels from that firm in Italy, that also do F1 wheels.

A pic of the "New" dash I did the centre but a trimmer did the top and surround
Alcantara is a covering material manufactured and marketed by Alcantara SpA. It is primarily used in the design, fashion, accessories, consumer electronics, automotive and marine industries.[1]

The material was developed in the early 1970s by Miyoshi Okamoto, a scientist working for the Japanese chemical company Toray Industries. It was based on the same technology as another product from the same company named Ultrasuede.[2] Around 1972, a joint venture between Italian chemical company ENI and Toray formed Alcantara SpA in order to manufacture and distribute the material.[3][4] The company is now owned by Toray and Mitsui.

Alcantara is produced by combining an advanced spinning process (producing very low denier bi-component "islands in the sea" fibre) and chemical and textile production processes (needle punching, buffing, impregnation, extraction, finishing, dyeing, etc.) which interact with each other.

...I just used that same material for my dash. It´s true it´s not very easily stretched into forms. Alcantara should be easier to maintain and clean than suede.

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