Brake line pictures.

Chris,

If you still need this information let me know. I have some pictures you would be looking for. However, while at work I can not get to my photobucket hosting site.

I also have a call with Toyota tonight after work so I might be a bit burned out to get to it tonight.

I will try and post some up here tonight or tomorrow.

thanks would appreciate it when you get the time thanks.
cj

Chris,

I posted 7 pictues up on my blog page for you.

This was just easier.

Check out the chassis page and you will see them. Follow the link at the bottom of the page.

Click on the picture and you can get the full size.

Thanks they are great thanks, I knew there had to be a tee in there somewhere at the back.

Cheers cj

Hi pantera 2077,
Your pics will help me too for 2012...
Thank's

Glad I could contribute something instead of always asking questions for a change.

Brian.

Resurrecting an old thread....

Are the fittings on the rear "T" Metric, or SAE?

I can screw a 3/16" brake nut in just a few threads, then it gets tight... I don't think I want to force it in. Do I need to go to my auto parts store, and see if I can find metric nuts?

Thanks -

Rocky

PS> P2077, thanks for the pix...

quote:

Are the fittings on the rear "T" Metric, or SAE?

They are metric.

John

I ran my threw the fender remove the proportion vale and bolted splitter under fender .

Bill - Nice and clean. That really looks great.

John - Thanks for the info.


Rocky (a.k.a. Chuck)

Rocky, the hard line threads are metric but that particular thread interchanges with dash-3 AN almost perfectly (5/16-24 SAE thread; not the same as inverted-flair on hard line fittings). So a dash-3 AN fitting will screw in and seal, up to at least 1400 psi (my front brake line pressure), sometimes needing copper crush washers as the flair angles are at different depths in the metric fittings.

quote:

Originally posted by Rocky:
Resurrecting an old thread....

Are the fittings on the rear "T" Metric, or SAE?

I can screw a 3/16" brake nut in just a few threads, then it gets tight... I don't think I want to force it in. Do I need to go to my auto parts store, and see if I can find metric nuts?

Or, you can replace the metric "T" with a SAE.

Thanks, Guys.

Next question... Anyone have a good source for the metric 10mm x 1.25 thread that goes into the rear caliper body? I need a "low profile" Tee, and don't want to string a huge number of fittings together.

The best thing I have found is:

http://shop.hoseandfittings.co...4235-10X1.25-02.html

Maybe I can find a running AN-3 with a male NPT on the bottom....

Other suggestions appreciated....

Rocky

quote:

Next question... Anyone have a good source for the metric 10mm x 1.25 thread that goes into the rear caliper body? I need a "low profile" Tee, and don't want to string a huge number of fittings together.

What are you trying to accomplish? To run a #3 AN fitting on your rear caliper, a 3/8x24 to AN #3 fitting with a crush washer will do the trick. This would screw into the standard rear caliper fitting. #3 AN uses a 3/8 x 24 thread...

I am working on mounting a second set of stock calipers on the rears.

I measured the threaded part of the hose that goes into the caliper - it's .488" (this is what I thought was 10mm x 1.25)

The AN3 Threads were .472", and it didn't seem like they had the same thread pitch....

It doesn't seem like the AN-3 fitting has as much bearing surface in the caliper hole... (just from a quick test)

Thanks -

quote:

Originally posted by Rocky:

I am working on mounting a second set of stock calipers on the rears.

Lance Nist used to sell a kit for doing that. Just giving you a heads up, he warned quad rear calipers require a master cylinder with at least a 1" (25mm) bore and he warned to remove the proportioning valve from the front circuit too.

-G

quote:

I am working on mounting a second set of stock calipers on the rears.

Why would you want to do this??? The stock caliper is heavy and a poor design.

Why Mickey Mouse the rear brake system. This is your safety. Please don't go that route. There are so many better ways to go with the rear brake system. Please give me a call if you want to discuss.

By the way, the small straight adapter on the stock rear caliper, that the stock hose connects to, is a 3/8 x 24 thread. I think we may have been talking about different fittings.

I mean this post in a respectful way. Your safety is a stake. In my opinion, putting two poorly designed calipers on the rear to compensate for the single poor caliper is a bad plan. Especially when a good and inexpensive option is available.

Take care, Scott

Thanks, guys -

Appreciate all the input. My plan had been to remove the proportioning valve. Thanks for the heads up on the MC bore size.

While I agree the calipers are heavy (can't disagree there), I have seen a (single) writeup on this mod (run without problem for xx years), and also a line or two in the "Pantera_Information_Summary_and_Links" spreadsheet.

Anyway - thanks for the input. I appreciate the insight from those who have the experience (I think it was George or Jack who said this....)

Rocky

quote:

While I agree the calipers are heavy (can't disagree there), I have seen a (single) writeup on this mod (run without problem for xx years), and also a line or two in the "Pantera_Information_Summary_and_Links" spreadsheet.

OK, but if I can be of service let me know, I know you would be pleasantly surprised how reasonably priced a rear brake kit can be...

Its true that increasing the size (or number) of calipers will require a larger master cylinder to deliver twice the volume of fluid, or your pedal will be on or near the floor in hard stops. One friend got carried away and put 6-piston fronts & 4-piston rears on, and could not completely stop his Pantera (with a stock master) before the pedal hit the floor.

You will need a manual proportioning valve (but definitely NOT the stock one!) to re-balance the system, once everything is plumbed leak-free with new flex hoses. In the rear, there are a number of hydraulic calipers that can work (with adapters) but try to find a pair that have built-in e-brakes so you don't have to re-engineer the e-brakes. Leaving them off may get you in trouble with insurance adjusters or yearly inspections (if applicable in your State). Hall used to sell adapted GM Z-28 rear calipers with integral e-brakes.

I successfully use a pair of mechanical e-brake calipers sold by Wilwood that can be made to work well with stock Pantera cables and handle, but they are a sliding-type aluminum caliper that requires a fabricated bracket. Pantera East used to sell this caliper (with a different bracket) for Panteras and Vipers, and they may still be available; call Marino Perna in FL to check.

I installed a pair of Willwood calipers in the rear and use the stock caliper as an e-brake only. I bought the kit from Scott at SACC. The nice thing is that I did'nt have to go nuts sourcing all the hardware etc.

I went with replacement front and rear calipers from SAAC. Scott provided great support after the sale and I'm very happy with the results...

I purchased my calipers from SAAC also and keeped stock calipers for e brake . I don't think you can get built in ebrake for back still, or can you?

Dennis Quella sells a billet p-brake kit, it's a lot lighter than the stock calipers

...and it looks nicer.

It is way nicer and lighter as well...

http://pantera.saccrestorations.net/ips084.html

Scott