Brake Proportioning Valve Differences

Just food for thought. If you install stainless steel brake lines you have already veered away from the stock appearance. Granted, most will not know the difference. In that same line of reasoning, if you just delete the proportioning valve completely, do not replace it with a T fitting, and replumb the brake lines no one will know the proportioning valve is missing. 

Larry 

Thanks, Larry. I will freely admit plumbing the brakes to delete the valve takes a little more skill than I have. I am hoping to more or less use a gutted valve. 

I’d do whatever is necessary to delete the valve. If you gut the valve then reconnect it, you’re asking for a brake bleeding headache. It just might trap air that you can’t get out. Don’t any of our vendors sell a stainless brake line kit that eliminates the valve? 

Wilkinson has a brass Tee that eliminates the valve.  It has threads and flares that match the stock brake line nuts.  

Gutting the valve sounds easy enough but it took me several tries to get it to seal properly.

do not open the so called prop  valve to get stuff out..It is hard to open in the first place but even harder to make it seal correctly later on..get a T from vendors ..or build a new line.

Matthias

Larry's Carson City Pantera Parts Connection not only has premade stainless lines, he has 'pre-gutted' proportioning valves in stock- both early and late type.

Note that with bundyweld (stock U.S welded-seam lines), double flares are essential. With stainless lines, they are made seamless and need no double flare. In fact, attempting a double flare may crack a stainless line.

Thanks. I ordered the late gutted valve from Larry on Friday.