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Hi
still work in progress, doors adjusted, all new rubber, motors an lifter work (what a mess) ..progress on electrical stuff in the front.

Question on electrical fule pump:
Where should it sit?
1) on the firewall?
2) on the cross bar below the firewall..(the triangle shap in the corner?

It will be attached via SILENT Blocks for noise cancelation (M6 on both sides but rubber in the middle)..

TX
Matthias

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Mat, FWIW a Ford electric fuel pump will fit INSIDE the tank with no alteration to the tank. All changes are to the fuel gauge sender assembly- either early or late type. This has two advantages: the fuel itself is excellent soundproofing and there is no possibility of vapor-lock since the fuel is being pushed, not sucked. (Reasons why 100% of current cars use this method as OEM). And it works equally well for both carbureted and EFI systems. I converted our carbureted car 15 years ago and have yet to find a problem.
I don't know right now which of the 800 POCA Newsletter articles it's in, but the basics are as follows:
the fuel tank sender hole in the tank is large enough to accept a Ford electric fuel pump spliced into a late model sender-out fuel line. You shorten the steel sender-out line by about 12" and add the pump used in Ford Throttle Body Fuel Injection in the late '80s. A cylindrical aftermarket pump of the same dimensions would also work. Use a short length of plastic fuel line to couple the pump to the fuel-out line, with clamps. This will allow the bottom of the pump to barely touch the tank bottom. These pumps have a replaceable filter on their input opening. Removing the left rear 1/4 window makes the modified sender insertion into the tank easily possible.

Throttle body injection pumps run at 8-12 psi and can be successfully regulated down to 7-8 psi for a Holley carb. Note- throttle body fuel pumps look exactly like multipoint EFI pumps that run at 45-55 psi, and neither has any markings to show operating pressures. Hi-pressure EFI pumps CANNOT be regulated down to carburetor pressure levels; they overheat from the restriction and an internal switch turns them off until they cool down, which stops the engine.

So you'll also need a good carb fuel pressure regulator, not a cheap one, and a Y-connection & check-valve if you also use the stock mechanical pump. I use my electric pump mostly as a primer-pump with a 3-position electric switch on the dash for momentary-on, center-off and continuous-on. The plastic line is because today's 'fuel-proof' rubber hoses often soften and disintegrate when soaked in the witch's brew sold as 'gasoline' these days.

The electric hookup uses a third stock o-ring-sealed spade-lug connection in a drilled hole on the sender top. A junk fuel sender can be cannibalized for the necessary parts; the motor ground is the sender assembly itself. An extra 12v+ line from the ignition switch powers the small current draw electric pump. In operation, one can barely hear the pump running with the pump on (full tank) but the engine off. With the engine idling, you cannot hear the pump at all.

So- advantages are silent, protected operation, factory reliability & no christmas-tree of fittings on the fragile tank bottom. And if you need to, the stock 5/16" OD fuel-out line (that supports about 450 bhp continuous) can be replaced with a 3/8" OD line, good for about 800 continuous horses.

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