@husker posted:2V or 4V?
4V while the heads on the engine are 2V
Heads are coming up for sale too..
I am looking for a 2V Edelbrock air gap
What are you asking for the intake?
@LeMans850i posted:I’ll try to find out tomorrow…
“…. another Project Roland.. lol” just tell me what am I doing with my life if I don’t twiddle on something… I wouldn’t know.🤔
you saw it… laying on the floor under the car , all dirty… Big smile on my face…
That was when I was young, now I'm still dirty, I'm still smiling, but I'm not on the floor under the car anymore, I have a lift, it's much less tiring and much better for my old back.
@rene4406 …that keeps me limber…. Hobby contortionist 😂
I took one head off: it has forged aluminum pistons, flat top, CNC’ed to fit, recently bored cylinders 4.03, seems like the ring gap was not set properly some marks, but nothing terrible.. certainly didn’t run very long since rebuilt.
seems to be 3.85” stroke..
Hydraulic flat lifters, Manley pushrod guides, Harland roller rockers,
On the lifter bores i wanted to do “the upgrade” anyway..
I have not looked at the bearings yet if the lifter issues killed the bottom end…
the cylinder heads… big wow… forgot to make pics but they are super custom!
4 V heads with pinned inserts in the intake to make them the size of the 2V very nicely done ✅ head also is machined for the rocker studs which are new as well… that was quite the positive surprise….
@LeMans850i posted:@rene4406 …that keeps me limber…. Hobby contortionist 😂
You aren't getting anything out of the exercise unless it hurts.
The heads… reduced intake for better low RPM Drivability .. perfectly done.. can’t feel anything in the port, head modified for lifter studs.. I didn’t know that when I got there trick flow heads… I would’ve been happy with those..
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Nice heads
@panteradoug posted:Nice heads
Yes!! And has stainless steel valves too..
the engine was built as a 393 Competition
I already have the Trick Flow, so I’m going to sell these..
What happened to the engine please read:
But they have the big valves?
All that epoxy is concerning to me. The stuff has the nasty habit of not staying were you put it and winding up in the cylinders.
In the days of racing Clevelands, that was less of a problem since the race engines got torn down frequently, sometimes between drag races and internal conditions verified.
The top racers like Nicholson and Glidden were their own engine builders and no longer guessed at which was the safest or most effective way to de-port intakes and heads.
Glidden is the one that was experimenting with reshaping the combustion chambers to increase combustion efficiency and you can see those now on heads like the "Blue Thunder" aftermarket heads.
On a "street car" I'm not sure that epoxy in the ports is the safest way to go? I certainly wouldn't. Even the cast "port stuffers" need to be "pinned" and even that can fail.
It goes back to the adage of, "you'ze pays your moneys and you'ze takes your chances". In the case of epoxy'd ports, I don't like the results of the risk analysis findings. Others have varying perspectives.
According to the machine shop, the crankshaft 3.85” probably can be saved just by polishing it… 😅… .. have H-beam connecting rods, forged pistons 4.03”, Sending off the flywheel to get resurfaced and drilled for McLeod clutch…, cleaned the big aluminum oil pan today and have a new boss for the drain plug to be welded in (can’t stand NPT threads in aluminum!) Also got the 3/4” Nippel for the left valve cover (for the breather) and an aluminum oil filler neck ( and cap) to be welded in ..
Things I’m looking at now is MSD ignition..?! Carburetor 850..?.. I’m loosing the timing gears that were in the engine and go back to chain
hydraulic roller lifters… Camshaft… the Roller rocker arms from Harland should fit… have to check if they are 1.73… (that’s what the trick flow heads require)
well just a lot of reading and And picking other people’s brains 🧠. … not much out there on 393 Cleveland’s..
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@panteradoug these are actually metal inserts in the heads…
and even if there would be a concern that they could lose… It would be rather easy to pin them from the bottom..
the head conversation I trust.. the intake “upgrade” …. Mmmm not so much… I think I make it a normal chromed Edelbrock performer intake… I don’t want anybody to buy that thing and something happens
there are 2V intakes out there.. but the heads are special..
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@rene4406 posted:But they have the big valves?
Yes, 4V open chambers but 2V intake ports
Those inserts are called "port stuffers" and were initially designed by Joe Lapine of Danbury Competition Engines.
I never saw them used on the intake manifolds before. Just the heads. I am very sure that they are intended to not only be epoxied in but "pinned" as well.
There was some testing done with them in the late '70s as I recall and some numbers showed around a 30hp increase on a dyno.
Their purpose is to reduce the volume of the intake ports on the iron 4v heads to about 230cc's.
Stock iron heads are around 250cc's. The primary purpose being to increase the mixture velocity to aid in lower rpm throttle response.
That helps with intake issues but doesn't help the exhausts.
Those are not 2v size intake ports on your closed down intake manifold and iron heads. 2v ports are smaller then that.
The A3 heads I have are similar as cast to the iron 4v heads with the port stuffers but are 220cc runners and have much better raised exhaust ports.
The intake manifold that was made for the A3 heads is an Edelbrock Torker type with matching reduced volume ports.
These are pictures of the comparison of the port differences on the two intake manifolds. You can compare those to what you have.
The A331 intake has no heat cross over provisions like the Edelbrock Torker does.
You can see that in the bottom view of the manifold.
The picture of the gasket overlay on top of the intake port is for the C302B aluminum head. That shows you how much smaller that port is in comparison.
Even though reduced in size from the original iron 4v intake port, they are all larger then the 2v ports. The biggest problem with the 2v port is that the floor is too low. It goes the wrong way. You want to raise the roof of the intake higher, not lower to get power from it.
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@panteradoug posted:Those inserts are called "port stuffers" and were initially designed by Joe Lapine of Danbury Competition Engines.
I never saw them used on the intake manifolds before. Just the heads. I am very sure that they are intended to not only be epoxied in but "pinned" as well.
There was some testing done with them in the late '70s as I recall and some numbers showed around a 30hp increase on a dyno.
Funny, I was on the shop from Danbury Competition 42 year ago and they welding pieces of steel into the heads for making a better flow on the oval track.
That time I bought a 1970 Boss 429 ( $12.500) into Kingston by a Ford dealer and ship it over to The Netherlands
Simon
I can tell you that Ford cast iron welds very easily with 304 stainless steel ELECTRODES.
I was never convinced of putting anything into the ports by any means.
There were stainless steel "tongues" to install in the ports for a while also but seem to have disappeared and frankly I haven't seen these port stuffers for sale in decades either.
I prefer the heads to be a solid castings so nothing can come loose under any condition.
@panteradoug posted:I can tell you that Ford cast iron welds very easily with 304 stainless steel ELECTRODES.
I was never convinced of putting anything into the ports by any means.
There were stainless steel "tongues" to install in the ports for a while also but seem to have disappeared and frankly I haven't seen these port stuffers for sale in decades either.
I prefer the heads to be a solid castings so nothing can come loose under any condition.
I seriously doubt that that big slice can go anywhere… and regardless, it would be very easy to drill and tap the port from the bottom… couldn’t go anywhere, even if a bomb exploded!
I think it’s a very cool, period Correct mod.
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