Factory brakes

Make sure that you "bench bleed" the master cylinder. It is important.

Some masters for some reason absolutely have to be bench bled. I think that this is one of them?

I suggest "power bleeding" the system with a vacuum pump. They are inexpensive and will help you determine if there is some sort of a leak in one of the hard brake lines.

It will get you probably 95+% there. THEN you probably will need to pump them.

I think that the bleeder valves in the calipers always need to be replaced as part of a major rebuild.

Incidentally, when rebuilding the calipers, partially fill them with brake fluid. It works as a lubricant and reduces the amount of bleeding necessary.

Good luck.

Get a "MityVac" vacuum bleeder system.  The only way to do this as well as bench bleeding the master.  Did you remove the proportioning valve?

The Master was benched bleed and the pressure differential valve was not removed at this time. should that be removed and checked,so far 1 gallon of no.3 brake fluid has been used.where do i get new bleed valves for a stock Caliper and a mightyvac bleeder.thanks for info.

What I use:  https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac...KE4QAvD_BwE&th=1

I got my bleeder valves from Hall. Other Pantera senders surely will have them as well. They are extra long.

Do you mean the plastic cover over the ignition switch? Basically that is held on by two Philips head screws that are are countersunk in the housing.

It's very simple to remove it.

A gallon of brake fluid is just a little bit much. I used just over 1 quart with a completely empty system. Look on the floor for puddles. Something there is not right.

This is reminding me that if the engine is running and the master is leaking, the fluid can be sucked into the engine through the brake booster if it has a leak in the diaphram internally. You would never see a leak externally.

Agree with Doug on the booster, but I don’t normally run my engine while bleeding the brakes…. Are you saying you pumped a gallon through the system and are still getting air?

Also…. Sometimes it’s not the bleed screws, but the seats in the caliper where the bleed screw seats that can be corroded.

I also wrap my bleeder with Teflon tape, to try and stop “apparent” air leaks while bleeding…

Good Luck

Rocky

@panteradoug posted:

Do you mean the plastic cover over the ignition switch? Basically that is held on by two Philips head screws that are are countersunk in the housing.

It's very simple to remove it.

AND the two forward 8mm bolts that hold the steering column on! The 2 bosses fit in large holes of the plastic cover… you have to pull column down a bit..

Ignition switch??!! Held on by couple screws on the ignition lock!

ignition lock removal is more difficult…

either drill the two heads of the bolts or chisel carefully and try to unscrew them this way…

when (or if) I sell my ignition lock I sell it as one unit as you see it… I’m not messing with it…. 🫣

Replace your brake pads with Porterfield R4-S pads too.  It's like a $1,000 brake upgrade for the cost of pads alone!  Looks like Porterfield sells Pantera brake rotor hats too!

https://porterfield-brakes.com...duct&dgwt_wcas=1