Flowcooler's 333-180 Series Substitute

What their change will do is reduce the amount of coolant recirculating through the engine during warm-up. This change is not as intrusive as others, but I agree with you Bayani, I'd rather use the OEM parts. In doing it this way they join a bunch of other companies and businesses who choose to re-engineer a perfectly working system rather than just provide the correct parts to begin with.

The model 333 is just a 330 with a small copper flange pressed onto the bottom "plug". My understanding was that the reason they stopped manufacturing the model 333 thermostat was because the tooling for the small copper flange was worn-out. I find it interesting they chose to tool-up to produce orifice plates rather than just renew the worn-out tooling for the copper flange.

Thanks for sharing the information.

Technically.....
Robert-Shaw was sold to Copper Standard, which in turn was bought out by Caltherm. Caltherm makes the current Robert-Shaw stats. We paid to have the tooling repaired (as George mentioned) so now the 333-XXX thermostat is our exclusive product. We did have them made in 3 different temp ranges. 160, 180 & 195.
AND...%100 USA made!!

Flo-Kooler just choose to go their own path.

The new flowcooler offering is not the high flow version of the Cleveland thermostat.

It is my understanding the one offered by Tim is the correct high flow version, as was initially supplied in the Cleveland.

quote:

Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:

... The new flowcooler offering is not the high flow version of the Cleveland thermostat ...

The thermostat in the picture posted by Bayani is a model 330, which is a high flow thermostat. It is not a new offering, its been made for decades. Its their universal thermostat ... fits SBC, SBF, Mopar, etc.

so now every thermostat issue will be complicated by the Flowcooler restrictor plate orifice diameter

Aaaargh!

quote:

Originally posted by 4V & Proud:
so now every thermostat issue will be complicated by the Flowcooler restrictor plate orifice diameter

Aaaargh!

You got that right

quote:

Originally posted by 4V & Proud:

so now every thermostat issue will be complicated by the Flowcooler restrictor plate orifice diameter

Aaaargh!

Ditto

It emphisizes the point that when replacing parts (any part), one needs to understand their operation and the critical dimensions for proper operation.

I new two great old race guys from the 80's that just ran a disc similar to the orifice shown in the picture, hear in Cal it just doesn't get that cold (that's what they said) no overheating problems. I also do not have a choke on my car.

...We Did NOT Invent the Cleveland Bypass System.
We Perfected It!

With the LARGER Diameter Copper Skirt, We Manufacture and Install onto the RS 330-180F (195F) Thermostats, The Coolant System, Along with the Precision MATCHED Brass Restrictor Plate, NOW Works, Optimum!!

Thank You to All, Whom have put Their Faith and Confidence, into MY Work!

Read My Ebay Feedback (as a Seller) and Know of the Success All Other Cleveland Owners have Experienced. 68 Pages over 11 Years, of Machining Cleveland Parts.

Now, there is No More 'Guessing', "...will 'It' Work?".

quote:

Originally posted by pantera chris:
I new two great old race guys from the 80's that just ran a disc similar to the orifice shown in the picture, hear in Cal it just doesn't get that cold (that's what they said) no overheating problems. I also do not have a choke on my car.

what engines were these guys running Chris?

the idea of using https://tinyurl.com/Moroso-63440 style restrictors in a 335 series engine is very troubling. replacing the correct thermostat with a open orifice in an engine with the factory or similar internal bypass restrictor plate in place creates an out-of-control cooling system.

if the internal bypass system is modified with the 'pin-hole' style restrictor plate or purposely blocked with a plug of some sort, or by the use of an aftermarket water pump that does not have the bypass passage machined ... then the use of the Moroso style restrictor would be OK as long as you don't mind running your engine below minimum operating temperature & wearing the bores at an accelerated rate

maybe those guys were just ahead of their time?

but AFAIK it doesn't get over 160*-180* in sunny CA ... yet(rolleyes)