I thought I had posted this before, but maybe it didn’t stick?
I finally started my Pantera (#1255) that has been sitting for 20+ years and things seems to be ok so far. I will eventually replace all the coolant hoses and pipes (the radiator is not leaking…yet), but right now I would like to flush the whole system if I can.
Is there a way to do that without disassembling everything? I’ve already replaced the two hoses to the filler tank, so those are accessible if that would help.
thanks!
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To really drain it, I think it’s best to disconnect one joint on each side in the plumbing underneath.
That way you get a big rush of fluid, hopefully carrying as much gunk as possible out.
My radiator has a petcock on the lower side of the radiator (driver’s side), but I think you’ll only get a trickle out of something like that.
Can you run “radiator flush” for a week or two before you are ready to do the deed? Let it run and circulate, make sure the thermostat opens, and pump it through the engine & cooling system. That stuff is really just a mild citric acid solution.
If you are bringing the car back to life, you’ll want to change all the hoses and tubing as one of your first projects….
Rocky
wonder if using a back flush kit would be effective with a Cleveland (due to internal thermostat bypassing
@rocky posted:To really drain it, I think it’s best to disconnect one joint on each side in the plumbing underneath.
That way you get a big rush of fluid, hopefully carrying as much gunk as possible out.
My radiator has a petcock on the lower side of the radiator (driver’s side), but I think you’ll only get a trickle out of something like that.
Can you run “radiator flush” for a week or two before you are ready to do the deed? Let it run and circulate, make sure the thermostat opens, and pump it through the engine & cooling system. That stuff is really just a mild citric acid solution.
If you are bringing the car back to life, you’ll want to change all the hoses and tubing as one of your first projects….
Rocky
Thanks for the info! I plan to replace all of the hoses and tubes, just want to flush the system right now. When you say "disconnect one joint on each side in the plumbing underneath" do I need to cut off the hoses and replace them? And if I do will I be able to "insert" the new short length of hoses without having to move the pipes? Thanks
I think the only way you’ll find that out is by actually doing it.
It would be great if I could say that “all you have to do is slip the two pipes about two inches forward”.
My guess is you’re going find that your 30 year old pipes don’t want to move as you would want want them to.
I wish you the best of luck – with my car, with stainless steel pipes and “new“ rubber hoses, I can slip the pipes around to flush my coolant.
Actually, I have bungs in my plumbing that allows me to drain the coolant without disconnecting most of the tubing .
Your car might be a bit of a different situation.
I am in the process of adding bungs to the coolant tubes on the bottom of the cars as well. Here is what I plan to install. If the petcocks protrude too far and cause a clearance issue to the ground then I might switch to pipe plugs.
You can also orient the valve on the side so that it does not protrude below, although this will leave a little liquid, it will be a small quantity.
@Don Lee posted:Thanks for the info! I plan to replace all of the hoses and tubes, just want to flush the system right now. When you say "disconnect one joint on each side in the plumbing underneath" do I need to cut off the hoses and replace them? And if I do will I be able to "insert" the new short length of hoses without having to move the pipes? Thanks
@rocky posted:I think the only way you’ll find that out is by actually doing it.
It would be great if I could say that “all you have to do is slip the two pipes about two inches forward”.
My guess is you’re going find that your 30 year old pipes don’t want to move as you would want want them to.
I wish you the best of luck – with my car, with stainless steel pipes and “new“ rubber hoses, I can slip the pipes around to flush my coolant.
Actually, I have bungs in my plumbing that allows me to drain the coolant without disconnecting most of the tubing .
Your car might be a bit of a different situation.
Hey thanks for the good advice. I suspect you are right that the old pipes won't budge, but it's good to know that new ones will. The flush is only short term as I need to move the car in and out of my garage for some home improvement work.
@stevebuchanan posted:I am in the process of adding bungs to the coolant tubes on the bottom of the cars as well. Here is what I plan to install. If the petcocks protrude too far and cause a clearance issue to the ground then I might switch to pipe plugs.
Did you have these fabricated? And where and how will they fit? thanks
These are only $7 each on Amazon. The valve is separate. https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I plan to install them inline with the long tubes as far back as possible:
Also, Amazon says the adaptor is 1.5" but it is smaller than that. They call this one 38mm. I tried the 36mm version and returned it because it was too small. Below you can see that this one fits into Gates Green Stripe 1 3/8" straight hose. I will be shortening the long tubes on the car to get this in place. This adapter has a slightly larger ID (inside diameter) than the long aluminum tubes that I use on the bottom of the car.
@stevebuchanan posted:Also, Amazon says the adaptor is 1.5" but it is smaller than that. They call this one 38mm. I tried the 36mm version and returned it because it was too small. Below you can see that this one fits into Gates Green Stripe 1 3/8" straight hose. I will be shortening the long tubes on the car to get this in place. This adapter has a slightly larger ID (inside diameter) than the long aluminum tubes that I use on the bottom of the car.
Hey good idea and really clean car!
Why not just weld the appropriate bungs on to the aluminum undercar tubing? The fewer rubber hoses and hose clamps, the better!
David that was my first thought, but I like the idea. Just plumbing from the front to the back already has its drawbacks. I like that Steve is using the Gates tubing and it certainly makes it nice for draining coolant!
My first thought was welding in a bung as well. And it was immediately followed by the fact that my local TIG welder is now retired. Then I came across these inline adapters. The adapter is just one more hose connection per side and really easy to do. I normally have a 3 foot section of the Gates hose on hand to ensure that all cooling hose connections are healthy.
When I changed my fluid this time when no more would exit the bottom petcock I experimented with a weak air push from my compressor through the top petcock and was surprised that about another gallon came out, who knows from where. I can't imagine that much was still in the radiator alone. Maybe somehow pushed through the tubes under the car? Also rigged a hose at the bottom petcock because I didn't like the fluid always flowing into the front valance. Worked perfect, not a drop on the car itself.
@does200 posted:Also rigged a hose at the bottom petcock because I didn't like the fluid always flowing into the front valance.
Good point.
that valance was apparently designed to catch all radiator coolant overflow and leaks until it completely rusts away. 😠
drilling a couple of half inch or even larger drain holes at the valance’s flat rear panel’s outer corners is a wise move to take.
Larry
