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Apparently there are no Mustang replacement vented rotors left in the system that I can find. Does anyone have a source?

Next what is the thinking---yes or no---on using the hub-rotor replacement assembly? Is anyone running the combo set and if yes, any issues?

I bought a set to test and have sourced and replaced the studs to 12mm. The inner bearing race side wall is 3/16 thicker and the outer race wall is the same at the wheel mounting face but much thicker at the dust cap location. So far they look quite adequate and will work but I may be missing something so if anyone has information on why they will not work, please advise.

I do plan on doing a comparison crush test---stock original to rotor/hub replacement assembly---have a friend in the testing business. If the crush and run tests are good, I will offer replacement assemblies with packed bearings, seals, and dust caps ready to install. Remove your original solid hub-rotor assemblies and install the new vented assemblies.

Thoughts and/or concerns?
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I could use these for the rears which in the past switched over.
The only other alternative is to cut out the hubs on a lathe.
Considering this was being done as a cost effect switch over, it is just as cost effective to go aftermarket with say a Wilwood rotor?

You might want to look at considering putting 67 Ford/Lincoln/Thunderbird rotors and calipers on the front?

Those "should" switch over with just an adapter for the calipers.
Hi Kirk,
Mike Drew organised a run of 'mustang' vented rotors for the front and back of the Pantera about 3 years ago, I contacted him recently about it but he doesn't have any left. Apparently no one else has expressed interest to him about it, after he mentioned it on an e-mail list.
If you were able to organise a 100% direct bolt on, with no modifications, spacers, redrilled or extra stud holes etc, using the original calipers then I would be interested. Getting modified brake components through the regular car inspections here, not to mention what happens in the case of an accident with respect to insurance or legal issues etc demands a direct bolt on, in my opinion.
Cheers, Tim.
Here are some pictures of the rotor/hub combo in the raw. I painted these but the next version will be plated black or yellow. They'll be a direct bolt on---just remove the factory rotor/hub intact with bearings and cap, put them in a bag for a possible later use and install the new assembly with greased packed bearings, new seals and dust caps ready to go. At least that is the current plan.

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Hi Kirk and others,

A few things, as I have installed the reproduction OEM-style separate rotors on all four corners of 2511.

Rotors I used were made by Centric. This is the company that Mike Drew approached for the short run of just rotors. I suspect what Mike received from them was the same as the ones I bought, prior to their switch to the one-piece combo castings.

Those rotors are a bit smaller than the Pantera rear rotors, and a bit larger than the Pantera front rotors.

As my car has a Quella Wilwood Superlite II upgrade, I do not know what the rotor size differences may do with the stock Girling calipers. On my car, there was no noticeable issue on the front with the larger size. However, on the rear the smaller diameter placed the caliper pads outside the circumference of the smaller rotor. This causes a ridge to be created on the outer portion of the pads. I noticed no noise or other issues, and just remove the pads and sand off the ridge now and then. Of course, this has also decreased the pads' contact area, and in theory, reduces braking performance.

Does your offering match the stock front rotor diameter? I suspect it may be a bit larger, from my previous experience. Even if so, I don't see a problem, as long as they still clear the Girling calipers.

Another issue owners have found with the repro one-piece units is the diameter of the stock metric wheel studs was smaller than the SAE wheel studs used on the repros. The stock metric studs would not correctly swap over to the repro's larger hub holes. Thus, you wound up with SAE threads up front, with the stock metric on the rear.

You say you have found metric studs that properly install to the repro hubs, which is great!

Another issue is the Pantera dust caps do not fit the repro hubs. You've solved that issue simply by including proper-sized caps.

A lot of owners have done this swap with success.

Your offering, one that overcomes some of the shortcomings of the one-piece swap, should become a great option for owners wanting the added safety offered by vented rotors, that do not retain the heat held by the stock solid rotors.

I almost took 2511 off the track at the end of the front straight at the LVMS track course due to caliper fluid boiling, with those stock solid rotors. Headed into a strong right hander the pedal went to the floor. Pure damn luck I had just slowed down on the straight due to the final lap flag having just been displayed. Otherwise.....

Are you an owner who drives your Pantera hard with a lot of heavy braking? You should consider swapping to vented rotors.

Larry
First set of replacement rotors/hubs are finished with 12mm studs and a coat of epoxy black. I may add a thin wheel surface shim to separate the magnesium wheel cashing against the steel painted mounting surface. The plated version will not require anything. Here is a shot of the first one ready to install with packed bearings and new dust caps.

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A shot of the unit with a shim. If anyone is interested in a set, please let me know. This first set has been holding up a GTS project which can be finished now. I will also be in St. Louis soon for several weeks on another project so I may not be able to have the finished price until early November for those who are interested.

Thank you for the input and encouragement.

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quote:
Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:
Hi Kirk and others,

A few things, as I have installed the reproduction OEM-style separate rotors on all four corners of 2511.

Rotors I used were made by Centric. This is the company that Mike Drew approached for the short run of just rotors. I suspect what Mike received from them was the same as the ones I bought, prior to their switch to the one-piece combo castings.

Those rotors are a bit smaller than the Pantera rear rotors, and a bit larger than the Pantera front rotors.

As my car has a Quella Wilwood Superlite II upgrade, I do not know what the rotor size differences may do with the stock Girling calipers. On my car, there was no noticeable issue on the front with the larger size. However, on the rear the smaller diameter placed the caliper pads outside the circumference of the smaller rotor. This causes a ridge to be created on the outer portion of the pads. I noticed no noise or other issues, and just remove the pads and sand off the ridge now and then. Of course, this has also decreased the pads' contact area, and in theory, reduces braking performance.

Does your offering match the stock front rotor diameter? I suspect it may be a bit larger, from my previous experience. Even if so, I don't see a problem, as long as they still clear the Girling calipers.

Another issue owners have found with the repro one-piece units is the diameter of the stock metric wheel studs was smaller than the SAE wheel studs used on the repros. The stock metric studs would not correctly swap over to the repro's larger hub holes. Thus, you wound up with SAE threads up front, with the stock metric on the rear.

You say you have found metric studs that properly install to the repro hubs, which is great!

Another issue is the Pantera dust caps do not fit the repro hubs. You've solved that issue simply by including proper-sized caps.

A lot of owners have done this swap with success.

Your offering, one that overcomes some of the shortcomings of the one-piece swap, should become a great option for owners wanting the added safety offered by vented rotors, that do not retain the heat held by the stock solid rotors.

I almost took 2511 off the track at the end of the front straight at the LVMS track course due to caliper fluid boiling, with those stock solid rotors. Headed into a strong right hander the pedal went to the floor. Pure damn luck I had just slowed down on the straight due to the final lap flag having just been displayed. Otherwise.....

Are you an owner who drives your Pantera hard with a lot of heavy braking? You should consider swapping to vented rotors.

Larry


Kirk. You are on the right track. Thanks for doing the work.

Larry. Vented rotors sure are going to help BUT one could go one step further. A vented 1.25" thick rotor.

If you look at the racing history of the Mustang, you will come across the fact that both KarKraft and Shelby discovered that the "big Lincoln" calipers and rotors virtually retrofitted to the car.

Initially the rotors were 12"x 1.25". The calipers were larger bore 4 caliper versions of KH that were on the 65-67 Mustangs.

Going to a 12" rotor doesn't necessarily add more braking but going to the larger bore calipers exerts more clamping force AND (here's the main advantage) the 1.25" thick rotors do better at staying cool under hard Trans Am racing conditions.

If you ever saw one of those races, I'm sure that what you saw gave certain fiction writers "death wish" story thoughts?

As one engineer from Ford put it, "these brakes were engineered to stop 7,000 pound Thunderbirds, Lincolns and Galaxies. On a Mustang, it's half the weight..."

To those critics that are going to say, "Hey Doug, We are talking about Panteras here". We are talking about using Mustang brakes on a Pantera aren't we?

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Last edited by panteradoug
Here is a shot of the first rotor installed. It is a bit larger in dia. maybe 3/16" or 4.76mm. There are no clearance issues with dia or thickness.

I do believe the best approach for this rotor is a direct removal of your original assembly and just install the new one which will be complete with packed bearings, seals and new caps.

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Don't worry too much about slightly larger than stock diameter rotors since the stock mounting of the calipers will position the pads in the same place relative to the axle centers. So ODs in excess of stock dimensions will not increase usable disc area to help stop the car, unless the caliper position is shifted outboard, too. And doing that may cause wheel interference if you're using Campys.....

Conversely, a bit smaller than stock rotors will cause a small decrease in brake capacity since the pads will overhang the rotor edge and generate a burr on the unused pad edge, as one owner mentions. On the street, you'll never notice either effect.
quote:
Originally posted by JFB #05177:
is your shim a "soft" metal?

I hope the wheel still centers on the hub. Is the "wheel track" the same as original?


The shim is to keep the mounting surface clean and can be made in many materials. I was planning on using a 18 to 20 gauge shim.

The wheel track is the same.

The new hub is -.005 compared to the original hub so it is not an issue. (picture below of the original reading 2.423)

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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Don't worry too much about slightly larger than stock diameter rotors since the stock mounting of the calipers will position the pads in the same place relative to the axle centers.

Hi Jack,

Wasn't worried about the additional DIA size except for caliper clearance and it's not a problem.

I will be break testing later this week.
Thanks Mike, I had a good time telling a few of the old AmeriSport battle stories.

It looks like I'll be offering the rotors two ways. One way will be a set complete with grease packed and installed bearings, new seals, correct metric studs installed, new dust caps with the rotors powder coated black ready to install.

The other way will be the rotors raw steel with the stud holds machined to the correct size and a set of new studs loose. You do the assembly.

Prices for both to come soon.
OK the finished ready to install replacement front rotor-hub set with packed bearings, caps and seals ready to exchange with your original set will be 395.00. I have one set of rotors powder coated black ready to add the bearings, seals, caps and ship. The powder coater uses a special black that quickly wears off the pad area and remains on either side protecting the in-used rotor surface. If you prefer to have the face clean, the black can easily be sanded off.

The standard version with the finished machine work and loose 12mm studs included will be 249.00.


Thank you for looking at my rotor post.

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