X2 on Joe's suggestion. A second switch, just like the first, mounted directly behind the first, wired in series with the first if it is normally closed, or parallel with the first if its normally open.
Least expensive, simplest solution.
-G
Why not get a new MODERN opener. Small price to pay to save your car from damage. A new one will stop when it hits an obstruction...
Thanks, I was thinking of that too, but would be too easy a fix with no challenge, and I am cheap as well.quote:Originally posted by Z06 Pantera:
Why not get a new MODERN opener. Small price to pay to save your car from damage. A new one will stop when it hits an obstruction...
so how much are windshields??? stay cheap we door guys like that. then everthing goes to hell and we still replace the m/o.
the blue max opener was one of the cheapist m/o out ther and loking at the hanger supports was probably a poor instalation also. the better m/o and newer m/o have sensing devices to shut the m/o off. like i said inmy earlier post put a set of spring bumpers on the track [it doesn't tear up your top fixture or rollers] buy a new m/o have somebody put it in. that knows how to set it up properly. jees everybody spent so much time with cornball ideas you don't do this kind of work on your car.
For my 4 post lift I had the garage door tracks lengthened/raised so the door rides about 1 inch from the ceiling not at just above the door opening height.
Personally I would not rely on the failsafe hard obstacle cutouts (as opposed to optical beam cutoffs) as it's pretty hard on the opener and you can still damage a panel or windshield before the unit overload circuit cuts in.
You could install an optical sensor so the door cuts the beam and switches the opener off, but really as long as you have one good and maintained system redundancy should be unecessary.
Julian
Personally I would not rely on the failsafe hard obstacle cutouts (as opposed to optical beam cutoffs) as it's pretty hard on the opener and you can still damage a panel or windshield before the unit overload circuit cuts in.
You could install an optical sensor so the door cuts the beam and switches the opener off, but really as long as you have one good and maintained system redundancy should be unecessary.
Julian
Just received my new switch and wire. So, should I be splicing into this existing wire from the existing switch to put the new switch along side? I figured I would put the new switch in front of the older one. I was thinking that maybe that existing switch just got a little old and maybe the new one would just fix the problem, but two in line I suppose may be good backup.
Attachments
Images (1)
quote:Originally posted by DOES 200:
.... So, should I be splicing into this existing wire from the existing switch to put the new switch along side? I figured I would put the new switch in front of the older one. ...
Yes, that wire. Good idea to put the new switch as the primary. Look at the old switch and see if there are contacts that can be bent closer together to make contact firmer when tripped.
Be aware of something that might be a problem. If the first switch works as intended, but the slider coasts past the first switch , and trips the second switch, the door will close as if you had hit the door button twice.
Hi Does200
Inquiring minds want to know when the door is down what state is the switch in?
Because right now you have one switch and then another switch which means one is open and one is closed. With the door up. The switch lets call it to the rear is not going to be used unless the first one fails.
My guess to the first question is the switch goes from open to closed when it hits the door.(it must pick up a relay in the unit) If it was the other way around the door would not stop until both switches were accuated.
Sorry I did not respond sooner do to work commitment in Georgia.15 hour days yuck.
Inquiring minds want to know when the door is down what state is the switch in?
Because right now you have one switch and then another switch which means one is open and one is closed. With the door up. The switch lets call it to the rear is not going to be used unless the first one fails.
My guess to the first question is the switch goes from open to closed when it hits the door.(it must pick up a relay in the unit) If it was the other way around the door would not stop until both switches were accuated.
Sorry I did not respond sooner do to work commitment in Georgia.15 hour days yuck.
quote:Originally posted by Joe 1974 L #6656:
Hi Does200
Inquiring minds want to know when the door is down what state is the switch in?
Because right now you have one switch and then another switch which means one is open and one is closed. With the door up. The switch lets call it to the rear is not going to be used unless the first one fails.
My guess to the first question is the switch goes from open to closed when it hits the door.(it must pick up a relay in the unit) If it was the other way around the door would not stop until both switches were accuated.
The switches close when the slider hits them, and something in the motor control circuit tells the motor to reverse direction the next time someone activates the system.
In the above case, there is a triple redundant upper limit safety. If the first switch fails to close, then the second switch has a shot at turning the motor off. If that fails, or the motor control is faulty, the wood block is a physical barrier to prevent further travel. There is a clutch and a timed protection built into the opener that will stop the shaft from turning eventually turn off the motor.
These switches can operate momentarily and stop the motor, so if the slider hits the switch and coasts past the point of activation, the motor will stop, and be ready to reverse at the next button push.
quote:Originally posted by Dave2811:
These switches can operate momentarily and stop the motor, so if the slider hits the switch and coasts past the point of activation, the motor will stop, and be ready to reverse at the next button push.
I think you are right especially that point above, because the one time the traveler went past the first switch (when I only had the one switch), I really can't recall if I was able to stop it with the remote, or whether it in fact just stoped itself when the traveler went past the switch. Hopefully two switches in line will not make it go forward again if it misses the first one from activating
