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Garage door shut off

does200does200Member
I have a 4 post stacker in my garage with one Pantera on top, where I have the garage door shut off switch fixed further down the rail so that when the garage door opens it hits this switch early on before the garage door rams into the windshield. I have always been cautious about this switch and watch the door as I open it, to ensure it shuts off where it is supposed to when it comes in contact with this white plastic switch shown in the photo. But today, the door went past the switch, and lucky I shut it down before the door hit the windshield. So I cleaned the contacts of the switch and who knows maybe that helps, or maybe not. But anyone know of another second safety I could use, mechanical or electrical that would be a back up in case that switch fails again? Since passing 55 I am not fast on my fingers like I used to be to shut it down and would like some second safety other than my finger on the door remote.

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does200does200Member
There is also this bar shown in the photo near the end of the door travel track that I was thinking may be some electrical shut off on the other end of that bar as the metal door traveler hits it. So as the wife set the door in motion with the garage door switch, I hit this bar hard with a hammer to see if it would stop the door moving, but no, the door kept moving. This metal bar does slide in and out though on the tack, and as shown is sitting in the end position. But there is nothing to attach it to when sliding it around up and down the track, as it just slides freely by hand.

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joe1974l6656joe1974l6656Member
Hi Does <smile>
Two thoughts I believe in the KISS principle; the first
I would double the switch so that they are in series, that way if one switch fails, the other switch opens the circuit.

-----| |--------| |----------

You can mount them side by side just wire them in series.

NOTE;
Double the air gap means twice the breaking capability for voltage (if you put them in parallel they would be able to break twice the current, the problem with parallel is if one fails it still runs)


The second;
I would run a tab, bolt, or mech stop so that the opener would stop no matter what. Something like 2 bolts drilled into the door track on each outside edge (were the rollers are on mine) to make sure it would stop on the upward force gauge or burn the motor up vs damage the car.

Yes on most openers there is an upper force and a downward force adjustment make sure they work.

Just my thoughts...
dave2811dave2811Member
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
There is also this bar shown in the photo near the end of the door travel track that I was thinking may be some electrical shut off on the other end of that bar as the metal door traveler hits it. So as the wife set the door in motion with the garage door switch, I hit this bar hard with a hammer to see if it would stop the door moving, but no, the door kept moving. This metal bar does slide in and out though on the tack, and as shown is sitting in the end position. But there is nothing to attach it to when sliding it around up and down the track, as it just slides freely by hand.

That metal tab is a physical safety spacer to keep the traveler from crushing the light box. If the traveler overruns the switch, it will just stop and the motor will turn against the clutch until it times out or reverses.

You could use that as a foundation for a safety device of your own. Cut a length of wood, such as a 2x2 or similar, long enough to brace against the metal tab and stop the traveler from going too far. Zip tie it to the track to keep it in place. If the traveler goes too far, it will impact the wood and either trip the reverser, or stop and let the motor turn against the clutch.
does200does200Member
quote:
Originally posted by Dave2811:
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
There is also this bar shown in the photo near the end of the door travel track that I was thinking may be some electrical shut off on the other end of that bar as the metal door traveler hits it. So as the wife set the door in motion with the garage door switch, I hit this bar hard with a hammer to see if it would stop the door moving, but no, the door kept moving. This metal bar does slide in and out though on the tack, and as shown is sitting in the end position. But there is nothing to attach it to when sliding it around up and down the track, as it just slides freely by hand.

That metal tab is a physical safety spacer to keep the traveler from crushing the light box. If the traveler overruns the switch, it will just stop and the motor will turn against the clutch until it times out or reverses.

You could use that as a foundation for a safety device of your own. Cut a length of wood, such as a 2x2 or similar, long enough to brace against the metal tab and stop the traveler from going too far. Zip tie it to the track to keep it in place. If the traveler goes too far, it will impact the wood and either trip the reverser, or stop and let the motor turn against the clutch.



All these are great ideas, like the extra switch idea and this wood spacer/stopper idea. But wouldn't the force of the traveler wreck something if it hits some mechanical stop? I figure to lift the door there is some pretty strong force doing that and the traveler too.

I see some mention an upper force and a downward force adjustment too, but I don't see anything to adjust. Is that some force adjustment on the motor area to adjust in case the door hits something? My remote and wall switch don't have any adjustments.
G gtpoweredMember
On my Craftsman MOTOR opener on the side of the case underneath the light cover are two circular openings. Each opening is labeled with a curved arrow denoting whether it is the open adjustment or the closed adjustment. You would want the open adjustment. You insert a screwdriver into the hole and turn it to limit how far the door will open. The adjustment is for travel it is not for if the opener senses it hits something, at least on my opener.
dave2811dave2811Member
quote:
All these are great ideas, like the extra switch idea and this wood spacer/stopper idea. But wouldn't the force of the traveler wreck something if it hits some mechanical stop? I figure to lift the door there is some pretty strong force doing that and the traveler too.

There is a clutch that will disengage the motor from the shaft when it strikes an object. Not to worry about damage.
does200does200Member
quote:
Originally posted by Dave2811:
There is a clutch that will disengage the motor from the shaft when it strikes an object. Not to worry about damage.

Well I hit that traveler on the nose pretty hard with a hammer when it was moving along the track and that didn't stop it, but maybe it needs something solid & stationary to hit to stop it. I may give the wood stopper a try and see what happens and look inside the light/motor area as well to see if it has an adjuster. This is why this forum is so good...if it was a Ferrari forum, the solution would be to have a garage door specialist out there to fix it Razzer
does200does200Member
quote:
Originally posted by Joe 1974 L #6656:
Post the model and make of your opener I will see if I can find you a manual
My force switches are under a plate on the back near the cord enter point.

I believe it is Genie Blue Max 8500, as I found paperwork in the attic from prior home owner (but no manual). I can't find it on line either. Opened the front, and I don't see any open or close adjusters.

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panteraturbopanteraturboMember
From what I can tell that particular door opener does not have built in limiters. The one you have is actually the factory limit switch. Most new openers just have a slider attached to a worm gear inside the head unit that contacts a limit switch on either end. Seeing as this one does not appear to I would second Joe's advice to put in a second switch as a safety.
G gtpoweredMember
Perhaps the safest thing to do is to run a bolt thru the track so the roller can't go past that point and let the force limit setting on the door stop it.

I looked online and it looks like it might have a programming button to set the limit that you hold until it reaches the desired point. I'd suggest calling Genie's support line and have them walk you through it.
The manual page is here but I don't see your model:
http://www.geniecompany.com/support.aspx

You can get expert advice through:
http://www.geniecompany.com/su...t_technical-faq.aspx

Contact your local Genie Professional Dealer.
Use our online Customer Service form to request information
Send us an E-mail: genie_info@geniecompany.com
Call Genie Customer service: 1-800-35-GENIE (1-800-354-3643.)
Monday – Friday: 9:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. EST

Saturday: 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. EST
does200does200Member
quote:
Originally posted by GTPowered:
Perhaps the safest thing to do is to run a bolt thru the track so the roller can't go past that point and let the force limit setting on the door stop it.

I looked online and it looks like it might have a programming button to set the limit that you hold until it reaches the desired point. I'd suggest calling Genie's support line and have them walk you through it.
The manual page is here but I don't see your model:
http://www.geniecompany.com/support.aspx

You can get expert advice through:
http://www.geniecompany.com/su...t_technical-faq.aspx

Contact your local Genie Professional Dealer.
Use our online Customer Service form to request information
Send us an E-mail: genie_info@geniecompany.com
Call Genie Customer service: 1-800-35-GENIE (1-800-354-3643.)
Monday – Friday: 9:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. EST

Saturday: 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. EST

Very good, thanks. I did email them this weekend to see if they had a manual or suggestions. It is probably an older unit, caveman time period. I am a little affraid to try that wood piece near the end of the travler to stop the unit or to use bolts on the tracks, because as it was going upward, I hung onto the door with about 1/2 of my weight and it still kept going up. I don't know how these clutch things work to disenguage it, but if that isn't working either and I put the wood there, maybe the force of that slider would hit the wood and crank the whole motor unit from the roof. I just thought my body weight would have stoped it from going up. But I am sure going to order the extra switch and put that up there for starters.
L 73lMember
the blue max opener was one of the cheapist m/o out ther and loking at the hanger supports was probably a poor instalation also. the better m/o and newer m/o have sensing devices to shut the m/o off. like i said inmy earlier post put a set of spring bumpers on the track [it doesn't tear up your top fixture or rollers] buy a new m/o have somebody put it in. that knows how to set it up properly. jees everybody spent so much time with cornball ideas you don't do this kind of work on your car.
joulesjoules"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" - Steve McQueen
For my 4 post lift I had the garage door tracks lengthened/raised so the door rides about 1 inch from the ceiling not at just above the door opening height.

Personally I would not rely on the failsafe hard obstacle cutouts (as opposed to optical beam cutoffs) as it's pretty hard on the opener and you can still damage a panel or windshield before the unit overload circuit cuts in.

You could install an optical sensor so the door cuts the beam and switches the opener off, but really as long as you have one good and maintained system redundancy should be unecessary.

Julian
does200does200Member
Just received my new switch and wire. So, should I be splicing into this existing wire from the existing switch to put the new switch along side? I figured I would put the new switch in front of the older one. I was thinking that maybe that existing switch just got a little old and maybe the new one would just fix the problem, but two in line I suppose may be good backup.

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dave2811dave2811Member
quote:
Originally posted by DOES 200:
.... So, should I be splicing into this existing wire from the existing switch to put the new switch along side? I figured I would put the new switch in front of the older one. ...

Yes, that wire. Good idea to put the new switch as the primary. Look at the old switch and see if there are contacts that can be bent closer together to make contact firmer when tripped.

Be aware of something that might be a problem. If the first switch works as intended, but the slider coasts past the first switch , and trips the second switch, the door will close as if you had hit the door button twice.
joe1974l6656joe1974l6656Member
Hi Does200
Inquiring minds want to know when the door is down what state is the switch in?
Because right now you have one switch and then another switch which means one is open and one is closed. With the door up. The switch lets call it to the rear is not going to be used unless the first one fails.
My guess to the first question is the switch goes from open to closed when it hits the door.(it must pick up a relay in the unit) If it was the other way around the door would not stop until both switches were accuated.

Sorry I did not respond sooner do to work commitment in Georgia.15 hour days yuck.
dave2811dave2811Member
quote:
Originally posted by Joe 1974 L #6656:
Hi Does200
Inquiring minds want to know when the door is down what state is the switch in?
Because right now you have one switch and then another switch which means one is open and one is closed. With the door up. The switch lets call it to the rear is not going to be used unless the first one fails.
My guess to the first question is the switch goes from open to closed when it hits the door.(it must pick up a relay in the unit) If it was the other way around the door would not stop until both switches were accuated.

The switches close when the slider hits them, and something in the motor control circuit tells the motor to reverse direction the next time someone activates the system.

In the above case, there is a triple redundant upper limit safety. If the first switch fails to close, then the second switch has a shot at turning the motor off. If that fails, or the motor control is faulty, the wood block is a physical barrier to prevent further travel. There is a clutch and a timed protection built into the opener that will stop the shaft from turning eventually turn off the motor.

These switches can operate momentarily and stop the motor, so if the slider hits the switch and coasts past the point of activation, the motor will stop, and be ready to reverse at the next button push.
does200does200Member
quote:
Originally posted by Dave2811:
These switches can operate momentarily and stop the motor, so if the slider hits the switch and coasts past the point of activation, the motor will stop, and be ready to reverse at the next button push.

I think you are right especially that point above, because the one time the traveler went past the first switch (when I only had the one switch), I really can't recall if I was able to stop it with the remote, or whether it in fact just stoped itself when the traveler went past the switch. Hopefully two switches in line will not make it go forward again if it misses the first one from activating Frowner
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