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...This is How I Machine The Bearings to Absolute 'Zero Error' Concentricity and Axial Alignment. These Techniques were Perfected over Years of Training and Experience. It Separates the Amateurs from the Professionals!
There are NO Short-Cuts!
There are NO 'Fast' Operations!
I counted them Once, I believe there are 18 'Basic' Operations! NOT Counting Dozens of Measurements and Calculations, Tool Changes/Adjustments and Tool Sharpening!

Here are 8 Photos, And why these are Expensive.

This Pilot Bearing just Shipped out Today to William W. in Phoenix, Arizona.

...From a Cored Bar of SAE 841 Oil Impregnated Sintered Bronze 'Oilite'.
Faced-Off and Rough Turned to .050" from Finished Diameter, then Single Point Boring to .030" short of .6690"/.6700" The Reamer cuts to .66950 (17MM)

The Bar has to hang-out from the Chuck Because it is Larger than the 'Hole Through Spindle'. To assure Concentricity is Not Lost, the Work is Constantly Check with a Dial Indicator, and supported with a 'Live' Center, until the Point off Parting-Off.

Single-Point Boring is Absolutely Accurate!, because it is Not Influenced (pushed Off-Center) by Opposing, Multiple Cutting Edges.
This, again, is a Must, to set-up the Bore for the Reamer to Follow. 'What Starts Straight, Ends Straight'!


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  • bronz_003
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There is a reason the Reamer is NOT held in a Jacobs Chuck. The Chuck would Influence the Alignment, and that would be Off Center, By a LOT!!
Supporting the 17mm Reamer (For -2 Transaxle) from a 'Dead' Center, Assures Zero Error Axial Alignment. The 'Lip' of the Bore must first be Chamfered 45 Degrees to Mate with the Cutting Edges of the Reamer. This Guides the Start of the Reamer PERFECTLY! This is a Must of Importance.
ONLY When It Starts 'Straight'! Will It End 'Straight', Period!
Reaming Speed = 1/3 Drilling Speed. The Amount of Material LEFT After Boring, to be Reamed, Must be .010"-.015" PER SIDE. .020"-.030" MAX. TOTAL.


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  • bronz_004
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Polished and Gaged.

...The Point of all this is, The Inside Diameter is Absolutely Accurate to the Outside Diameter! ZERO ERROR!

In Reality! This is 'Miles' More Accurate than the Alignment of the Transaxle to the Engines' Crankshaft...Will EVER Be!!
But, We will Never Lower Our Discipline of Precision!

"...The Greatest Success does NOT Go to those who SET the Standards! It Goes to Those Who Sustain Them!!"


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  • bronz_008
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...Look Close, the 'Entry' Lip has a 5 Degree Per Side (10 Degree 'Included' Angle) Chamfer to Aid in Alignment during Installation into the Crankshaft Counter-Bore. And to Help Start It In.

Triple Check ALL Measurements THEN Part-Off. You can see the Thin Yellow Oil that drips Off of Oilite while it is being Machined, and the Pores get Cut Open. Opening the Pores Releases the Oil.

Part-Off, partially through, Then remove the Center to complete drop-off. NEVER Part-Off Between Centers, Because That Will Bind the Tool, and in Most Cases, Snap It Off!


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  • bronz_009
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...Turn around, Square-Up, Cut the Inner Chamfer to 30 Degrees to Mate up with the 60 Degrees of the Transaxle Input Shaft, Snout. To 'Kick' the Shaft Into Alignment, During the Transaxle Installation. Don't forget the 3 Drops of Oil!

Then 'Round' the Outer Edge, It's More 'Pleasing' to the Eye, than just a 'Chamfer'!
Leaving the 'Rim' on the Face, Guarantees the Bearing can NOT be Installed Backwards.


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  • bronz_011
Last edited by marlinjack

...Final Polishing.
Another Pantera Pilot Bearing Is Born!

Beautiful, 'Warm' Bronze! We Hate to 'Hide' them Down Inside the Clutch and Bellhousing, But I have had Customers Purchase These, Just to sit on Their Desks as a Paperweight, and be Admired!

Also, as I was Warned, when I first started Purchasing Oilite, "...Don't Put It in Your Pocket! The Oil will Ooze Out and Stain Your Slacks".

Thank You All


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  • bronz_013
Last edited by marlinjack

...Final Gaging and Inspection. The Gage Always STOPS-Tight, the Bearing Must be Polished Out to final Fitting! Just Slides in with a Twist...NICE! The Gage is .69950", the Fit is .0005" Per Side, total .0010 The Bore is Polished to + .0003 / -.0000 to Allow for 'Heat Expansion'. The Input Shaft is .69900"/.69950
Yes! The Gage Itself, was Machined and Polished Out to the EXACT Size of the ZF-2 Shaft Snout, Plus or Minus NOTHING!

NO Surprises when You are Lining Up that Transaxle!! Give it a Push 'Like You Mean It'!!. IN...DONE! (put 3 Drops of light Oil on the Snout, to start Her In)

'Near' Perfect, Only GOD is Perfect!

Last, Oilite has a characteristic many do not know about. Being a 'Oil Impregnated Sintered (Powdered) Bronze', it has the Ability to 'Meld', and Correct for Minor or Major Misalignments of the Input shaft! Meaning, it will 'Crush', While being Worked, from a 'High-Spot' Into a 'Low-Spot' and will 'Custom' Conform to Any and All Assemblies. This is the Reason Oilite will Never Harm the ZF Shaft, because It Can't! Any 'Binding' or 'Tightness', will Soon be Self-Corrected, and Oilite is Much Softer than the 'Gear-Hardened' Shaft. Take a File and 'Test' the ZF Shaft (NOT on the Critical Contact Area, Try the Very Tip), You will see what I mean, as the file Glances-Off the Shaft as if it were a Diamond!

The Bad thing about Oilite is, It IS SOFT, Delicate and Sensitive! If while installing the Transaxle, One should Smack the Inner Lip of the Bearing, this will Close-Up the Inner Diameter, causing any further Installation of the Input Shaft to be Near Impossible.
This is also the reason for Never using a Sledge Hammer DIRECTLY on the Face of the Bearing, to Install it into the Crankshaft! You use a Block of Hardwood between the Hammer and the Bearing!
Start the Bearing Straight and Level (The Chamfer will Help) and Hammer Her in until She Seats, and STOP!
Be Gentle But Firm, Remember She's Pregnant, and Your Hammering against the #3 Main, 'Thrust' Bearing!! LOL

Good-Luck with It!

* These Bronze Bearings are Listed for Sale on Ebay, Search 'Pantera Oilite Bronze Pilot Bearing'.


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  • bronz_012
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