Joules I felt your question deserved it's own "space".
George
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
#7024's Christmas present turned out to be an MSD distributor (#8477), MSD-A6 ignition module and tach adapter. Not quite everything that she'd put on her Christmas list to Santa, but a good start 
On the distributor instructions (yeah, I actually read them first this time
) it says I should change to a non by-pass oil filter. Can someone on the "all knowing" DTBB tell me which make & part # oil filters omit the standard oil by-pass that allows a portion of the oil to by-pass back to the pan? 
Happy New Year to all
On the distributor instructions (yeah, I actually read them first this time
) it says I should change to a non by-pass oil filter. Can someone on the "all knowing" DTBB tell me which make & part # oil filters omit the standard oil by-pass that allows a portion of the oil to by-pass back to the pan? Happy New Year to all
George,
Thanks, you're right I should have started anew thread to get my question out to the audience and not lost in or interupting the 351 Oiling discussion that was already taking place.
Can your wisdom shed any light on the oil filter I should be using?
Thanks, you're right I should have started anew thread to get my question out to the audience and not lost in or interupting the 351 Oiling discussion that was already taking place.
Can your wisdom shed any light on the oil filter I should be using?
Joules,
As a filter gets dirty, the differential pressure across the filter becomes greater. The engineers who designed your motor believed it is better to supply your motor with dirty oil rather than having a clogged filter restricting oil to the motor. In other words, dirty oil is better than no oil. So they designed the filter with a spring loaded bypass valve that bypasses the filter element when the differential pressure reaches 8 to 10 psi.
The non-bypassing filter for a 351C is a Purolator L30119.
However, MSD specifying a non-bypassing filter doesn't sit right with me. The only reason for MSD to specify a non-bypassing filter is because MSD expects the distributor they have sold you to be putting something abrasive, like metal shavings, into your oil. If the filter "bypasses" oil the abrasive material would not be filtered out and would ruin your bearings & crank journals, at a minimum.
So why is MSD specifying a non-bypassing filter? what is their distributor doing that would make them print that requirement? Do you want to install a part the manufacturer believes may pollute or ruin your motor?
I know the issue is the distributor gear. There are currently 4 materials distributor gears are made from: iron, steel, brass or a non-metallic composite. There have been issues in the recent past with distributor gears wearing very quickly & polluting (and ruining) engines. This has been either a function of the wrong gear material for a given camshaft, or improperly cut gears, or both. Others claimed the rapid gear wear was due to increased loading of the gears from running high volume oil pumps. I have been under the impression that these issues have been resolved. Perhaps not?
The distributor gears mesh with gears ground into the camshafts. Camshafts are either made of cast iron or billet steel. You use iron gears with iron cams & steel gears with steel cams. The brass gears are supposed to be good with either type of cam, but they have a reputation for wearing fast & polluting your oil & motor with fine brass shavings. In my opinion, the brass gears were a bad idea. The composite gears are relatively new on the market and I haven't heard of anybody using one yet.
If you are running the appropriate gear for your cam (steel or iron), there should be no need for a non-bypassing filter.
Your friend on the DTBB, George
As a filter gets dirty, the differential pressure across the filter becomes greater. The engineers who designed your motor believed it is better to supply your motor with dirty oil rather than having a clogged filter restricting oil to the motor. In other words, dirty oil is better than no oil. So they designed the filter with a spring loaded bypass valve that bypasses the filter element when the differential pressure reaches 8 to 10 psi.
The non-bypassing filter for a 351C is a Purolator L30119.
However, MSD specifying a non-bypassing filter doesn't sit right with me. The only reason for MSD to specify a non-bypassing filter is because MSD expects the distributor they have sold you to be putting something abrasive, like metal shavings, into your oil. If the filter "bypasses" oil the abrasive material would not be filtered out and would ruin your bearings & crank journals, at a minimum.
So why is MSD specifying a non-bypassing filter? what is their distributor doing that would make them print that requirement? Do you want to install a part the manufacturer believes may pollute or ruin your motor?
I know the issue is the distributor gear. There are currently 4 materials distributor gears are made from: iron, steel, brass or a non-metallic composite. There have been issues in the recent past with distributor gears wearing very quickly & polluting (and ruining) engines. This has been either a function of the wrong gear material for a given camshaft, or improperly cut gears, or both. Others claimed the rapid gear wear was due to increased loading of the gears from running high volume oil pumps. I have been under the impression that these issues have been resolved. Perhaps not?
The distributor gears mesh with gears ground into the camshafts. Camshafts are either made of cast iron or billet steel. You use iron gears with iron cams & steel gears with steel cams. The brass gears are supposed to be good with either type of cam, but they have a reputation for wearing fast & polluting your oil & motor with fine brass shavings. In my opinion, the brass gears were a bad idea. The composite gears are relatively new on the market and I haven't heard of anybody using one yet.
If you are running the appropriate gear for your cam (steel or iron), there should be no need for a non-bypassing filter.
Your friend on the DTBB, George
George,
Thanks for your input, I see your point. The distributor isn't installed yet, so I may play Devils advocate and give the Tech Support guys at MSD a call to see what kind of rationale they come up with for the recommendation.
Thanks for your input, I see your point. The distributor isn't installed yet, so I may play Devils advocate and give the Tech Support guys at MSD a call to see what kind of rationale they come up with for the recommendation.
I may be a bit confused, but as I read it, MSD is recommending that a filter that does not have a bypass be used. And as per George's post that makes sense since as little as 20% of the oil is actually filtered in some situations. In addition to the non-bypass filters George has mentioned, I highly recommend the Pure Power line of cleanable, reusable filters. These filters allow you to configure it with or without a bypass, as well as an optional magnetic insert.
However, these filters are NOT cheap! Expect to throw down about $200 for one of these. Definately not for the guy that drives across town to save 3 cents on a gallon of gas, but more for like the only-the-best-will-do crowd.
Ron
However, these filters are NOT cheap! Expect to throw down about $200 for one of these. Definately not for the guy that drives across town to save 3 cents on a gallon of gas, but more for like the only-the-best-will-do crowd.
Ron
I want to make it clear, I have NOT recommended the use of a non-bypassing oil filter. I am in agreement with the engineers who designed the Cleveland oil system, that dirty oil is better than no oil.
The standard oil filters with the built in bypass system filter 100% of the oil until the pressure drop across the filter exceeds 8 to 10 psi.
According to what I read on the Pure Power web site, their filter does have a relief (bypass) system. Is this right Ron?
The only specific oil filter recommendation I make is for those running the high pressure relief spring in their oil pump. For those individuals I recommend the Fram HP1 oil filter, the can of this filter has a 500 psi burst rating.
Your friend on the DTBB, George
The standard oil filters with the built in bypass system filter 100% of the oil until the pressure drop across the filter exceeds 8 to 10 psi.
According to what I read on the Pure Power web site, their filter does have a relief (bypass) system. Is this right Ron?
The only specific oil filter recommendation I make is for those running the high pressure relief spring in their oil pump. For those individuals I recommend the Fram HP1 oil filter, the can of this filter has a 500 psi burst rating.
Your friend on the DTBB, George
Hi George!
The answer on the Pure Power filter question is yes/no. The filter is of modular construction allowing the user to run the bypass valve, or remove the valve and insert a block off plate, I could take photos of how this works if desired.
I agree that dirty oil is better than no oil. But the pure power filter is made of surgical grade stainless steel screen that has a filtration capability equal to or better than paper/composite filters. However, the "filtered oil" flow rate with the screen far exceeds that of coventional filters (try blowing oil through paper sometime) a bypass valve is not required.
Then why do they offer a bypass valve? I asked this question to the pure power filter engineer last month at SEMA. His reply was that the valve was instituted as a "feel good" implimentation since most people relate no bypass valves with either pressure loss or filters bursting. He further went on to explain that the flow rate is so high with the screen element that the bypass valve is not needed since filtration resistance is lower than that of the standard bypass valve PSI rating.
Yes it's true, you can have your cake (100% filtered oil) and eat it too (and improved flow rate). New technology, although pricey, is a wonderful thing.
Ron
The answer on the Pure Power filter question is yes/no. The filter is of modular construction allowing the user to run the bypass valve, or remove the valve and insert a block off plate, I could take photos of how this works if desired.
I agree that dirty oil is better than no oil. But the pure power filter is made of surgical grade stainless steel screen that has a filtration capability equal to or better than paper/composite filters. However, the "filtered oil" flow rate with the screen far exceeds that of coventional filters (try blowing oil through paper sometime) a bypass valve is not required.
Then why do they offer a bypass valve? I asked this question to the pure power filter engineer last month at SEMA. His reply was that the valve was instituted as a "feel good" implimentation since most people relate no bypass valves with either pressure loss or filters bursting. He further went on to explain that the flow rate is so high with the screen element that the bypass valve is not needed since filtration resistance is lower than that of the standard bypass valve PSI rating.
Yes it's true, you can have your cake (100% filtered oil) and eat it too (and improved flow rate). New technology, although pricey, is a wonderful thing.
Ron
> Camshafts are either made of cast iron or billet steel. You use iron gears
> with iron cams & steel gears with steel cams.
It's considerably more confusing than that, I'm afraid. For instance,
Comp recommends the Ford steel gear on their austempered ductile iron
roller cores. Kieth Craft uses the Ford and MSD steel gears on flat tappet
iron and roller steel cores, having had trouble with iron gears on both Comp
and Lunati flat tappet iron cam cores.
> The brass gears are supposed to be good with either type of cam, but they
> have a reputation for wearing fast & polluting your oil & motor with fine
> brass shavings.
I think you mean bronze. Bronze gears are generally thought of as sacrificial
but some of the bronze alloys can be harder than some of the cheap parts store
iron gears.
> The composite gears are relatively new on the market and I haven't heard of
> anybody using one yet.
I noticed Ford is carry one in the FRPP catalog for the Windsor. I assume
it's Comp's gear.
Here are my notes on 351C distributor gears:
1. Cast Iron
These are the standard distributor gears used on hydraulic and solid flat
tappet camshafts which use iron cores. Not compatible with most hydraulic
or solid roller cam steel cores. Some Comp Cams street rollers may be
compatible but not necessarily ideal. Note that some cast iron gears from
auto parts stores are substantially softer than OEM iron gears. Also note
that some cam companies use a harder core for certain race solid flat tappet
grinds which may require a bronze (or other material) gear.
2. Cast Steel
Compatible with hydraulic roller cam cores and with some street solid
roller cores (e.g. -8 Comp Cams street roller cores). P/N M-12390-J
(1.421" OD, 0.531" ID) from the FRPP catalog. According to MSD, the
Ford mild steel distributor gears (as fitted to engines with factory
hydraulic-roller-cams) is softer than the common ductile iron gears,
but harder than bronze. MSD also claims that Chevy uses a harder
cam core for it's factory hydraulic rollers and uses cast iron gears
but that its gears don't last as long as the Ford gears. Some racers
run the Ford gear on 8620 solid roller steel cores and iron flat tappet
cores.
3. Bronze-Aluminum
Generally softer than iron. Compatible with most cam cores but wears
rapidly. A bronze distributor gear is essentially sacrificial, wearing
the distributor gear instead of the roller cam gear. Usually specified
for solid roller cams. Note that hardness can vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. If running one of these gears, you may want to run an
oil filter without a bypass so the filter catches the wear particles.
On a 351C, consider using Purolator oil filter number L30119. It's a
full size replacement for the FL-1A Ford/PH8A Fram filter. It has no
bypass spring in the middle but it does have the rubber flapper for
anti-drainback. The original application is for a 1978 Nissan 510, 2.0L
4 cyl engine (L20B) which had the bypass valve in the engine block.
This filter cross-references to a Fram PH2850, a Motorcraft FL-181,
and a Wix 51452. However, those filters have not been verified and may
have a bypass. It appears after 1978, Nissan went to a half height
filter. Purolator part number L22167 fits that application and does not
have the bypass spring but does have the rubber flapper for anti-drainback.
Race engines may want to run dual filters.
4. Machined 8620 Steel
A harder steel gear designed specifically for compatability with 8620
steel solid roller cam cores. Mike Trusty ran one of these and turned
it to powder in just a few miles. Asa Jay runs one and has reported no
problems yet. This may have been the early Crane steel gear.
5. Powdered Metal Composite with Anti-Friction Coating
Available for the 351C from Rob McQuarrie of Blue Oval Performance in
Colorado. He reports success using them on all cam cores. This is
supposedly the current Crane steel gear which Crane recommedns for all
cam cores, steel or iron.
6. Mallory Gear
Mallory makes a gear for their distributors that is made for
"austempered ductile iron billets" and "proferal billet" cams. It is
supposed to be compatible with the Comp Cams austempered iron cam cores.
As I understand it, the gear is heat-treated for compatibility.
More on the cam gear hardness problem. A few years back, a friend of mine
(Steve Grossen) ruined several cams and gears on a 351W which led him to
Rockwell (B scale) test several distributor gears. A generic auto parts
cast iron gear tested at 70, the bronze gear at 90, and the stock Ford gear
was 102. Note that the soft bronze gear was harder than the generic auto
parts cast iron gear. Steve eventually traced his trouble to a batch of cam
cores with improperly machined gears (Comp doesn't check each gear, only a
statistical sampling). Comp replaced the cams and eventually gave him one
with the "NASCAR" treatment" (filed, wire brushed on a wire wheel, and bead
blasted). Steve supplied some notes and photos of his ordeal which can be
viewed at Dave William's website:
http://www.bacomatic.org/~dw/sgdist/sgdist.htm
No matter what gear you use, make sure the gear is in the proper location.
A replacement distributor gear may or may not have a holed drilled in it.
Ford cautions that the hole should not be used for alignment purposes.
Position the gear to the proper location, then drill a new hole 90 degree
to the old hole. Dykem the contact pattern. Pull and inspect gear after
a while. Make sure the gear is not bottoming out and binding and that the
oil pump driveshaft isn't too long. MSD recommends using a moly lube to
break-in the cam/distributor gears. They say squirting it on the gear is
insufficient and suggest using a toothbrush to work it into the pores of
the metal.
I went with Crane's steel gear with my Crane hydraulic roller cam. Here's
some info from Crane's website:
Steel Distributor Gears
Crane Cams now offers six part numbers of precision machined, steel distributor
gears for popular Ford engines using steel roller camshafts. Roller lifter cams
are made from either induction hardened steel or carburized steel. Neither of
these materials are compatible with the normal stock distributor gears. In the
past "bronze" distributor gears were used. For street applications these gears
wear at an excessive rate and have to be replaced on a regular basis.
By using modern heat treating and manufacturing processes, Crane Cams has
developed a series of steel distributor gears that are compatible with both
induction hardened and carburized steel roller lifter cams. Crane Cams now
makes it possible to use a steel distributor gear that provides OEM-style
life-span, eliminating the need to frequently replace bronze alloy gears. These
new Crane steel gears are available for most Ford engines for both stock and
aftermarket distributors.
The use of these gears on camshafts that have been previously run with other
types or materials of gears, or the unnecessary use of high volume/high
pressure oil pumps, can be severely detrimental to the life of the camshaft
gear.
Note: The "Shaft Diameter" dimension referred to is the portion of the
distributor shaft that the gear registers on. It may be necessary to remove the
original gear to measure the shaft diameter correctly.
52970-1 FORD V-8 70-82, BOSS 351-351C-351M-400 FOR .500 SHAFT DIAMETER
52971-1 FORD V-8 70-82, BOSS 351-351C-351M-400 FOR .531 SHAFT DIAMETER
And from Comp's website:
Carbon Ultra-Poly Composite Distributor Gear
COMP CamsR is proud to introduce the latest in Hi-Tech distributor gears.
Manufactured from Carbon Ultra-Poly these gears represent the future of
distributor gears. We have them available for Small & Big Block Chevrolets with
.500 or .491 distributor shafts and Ford FW applications. These gears have
undergone stringent testing in various applications with positive results.
These super tough gears show great promise in solving the wear issues
associated with bronze gears in racing applications. COMP CamsR is pleased to
bring you another innovative product, call today for more information on these
gears and our other fine products.
Ford-FW Beveled Tooth Gear, Fits Shaft Diameter 0.530" w/ Beveled tooth
Now available for Ford 302-351W engines, the COMP CamsR Composite Distributor
Gear is the fix many Ford engine builders have longed for to overcome bronze
distributor gear wear problems. Made from Carbon Ultra-Poly, these gears have
undergone stringent field and dyno testing to ensure they exceed all durability
and performance claims.
Dan Jones
> with iron cams & steel gears with steel cams.
It's considerably more confusing than that, I'm afraid. For instance,
Comp recommends the Ford steel gear on their austempered ductile iron
roller cores. Kieth Craft uses the Ford and MSD steel gears on flat tappet
iron and roller steel cores, having had trouble with iron gears on both Comp
and Lunati flat tappet iron cam cores.
> The brass gears are supposed to be good with either type of cam, but they
> have a reputation for wearing fast & polluting your oil & motor with fine
> brass shavings.
I think you mean bronze. Bronze gears are generally thought of as sacrificial
but some of the bronze alloys can be harder than some of the cheap parts store
iron gears.
> The composite gears are relatively new on the market and I haven't heard of
> anybody using one yet.
I noticed Ford is carry one in the FRPP catalog for the Windsor. I assume
it's Comp's gear.
Here are my notes on 351C distributor gears:
1. Cast Iron
These are the standard distributor gears used on hydraulic and solid flat
tappet camshafts which use iron cores. Not compatible with most hydraulic
or solid roller cam steel cores. Some Comp Cams street rollers may be
compatible but not necessarily ideal. Note that some cast iron gears from
auto parts stores are substantially softer than OEM iron gears. Also note
that some cam companies use a harder core for certain race solid flat tappet
grinds which may require a bronze (or other material) gear.
2. Cast Steel
Compatible with hydraulic roller cam cores and with some street solid
roller cores (e.g. -8 Comp Cams street roller cores). P/N M-12390-J
(1.421" OD, 0.531" ID) from the FRPP catalog. According to MSD, the
Ford mild steel distributor gears (as fitted to engines with factory
hydraulic-roller-cams) is softer than the common ductile iron gears,
but harder than bronze. MSD also claims that Chevy uses a harder
cam core for it's factory hydraulic rollers and uses cast iron gears
but that its gears don't last as long as the Ford gears. Some racers
run the Ford gear on 8620 solid roller steel cores and iron flat tappet
cores.
3. Bronze-Aluminum
Generally softer than iron. Compatible with most cam cores but wears
rapidly. A bronze distributor gear is essentially sacrificial, wearing
the distributor gear instead of the roller cam gear. Usually specified
for solid roller cams. Note that hardness can vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. If running one of these gears, you may want to run an
oil filter without a bypass so the filter catches the wear particles.
On a 351C, consider using Purolator oil filter number L30119. It's a
full size replacement for the FL-1A Ford/PH8A Fram filter. It has no
bypass spring in the middle but it does have the rubber flapper for
anti-drainback. The original application is for a 1978 Nissan 510, 2.0L
4 cyl engine (L20B) which had the bypass valve in the engine block.
This filter cross-references to a Fram PH2850, a Motorcraft FL-181,
and a Wix 51452. However, those filters have not been verified and may
have a bypass. It appears after 1978, Nissan went to a half height
filter. Purolator part number L22167 fits that application and does not
have the bypass spring but does have the rubber flapper for anti-drainback.
Race engines may want to run dual filters.
4. Machined 8620 Steel
A harder steel gear designed specifically for compatability with 8620
steel solid roller cam cores. Mike Trusty ran one of these and turned
it to powder in just a few miles. Asa Jay runs one and has reported no
problems yet. This may have been the early Crane steel gear.
5. Powdered Metal Composite with Anti-Friction Coating
Available for the 351C from Rob McQuarrie of Blue Oval Performance in
Colorado. He reports success using them on all cam cores. This is
supposedly the current Crane steel gear which Crane recommedns for all
cam cores, steel or iron.
6. Mallory Gear
Mallory makes a gear for their distributors that is made for
"austempered ductile iron billets" and "proferal billet" cams. It is
supposed to be compatible with the Comp Cams austempered iron cam cores.
As I understand it, the gear is heat-treated for compatibility.
More on the cam gear hardness problem. A few years back, a friend of mine
(Steve Grossen) ruined several cams and gears on a 351W which led him to
Rockwell (B scale) test several distributor gears. A generic auto parts
cast iron gear tested at 70, the bronze gear at 90, and the stock Ford gear
was 102. Note that the soft bronze gear was harder than the generic auto
parts cast iron gear. Steve eventually traced his trouble to a batch of cam
cores with improperly machined gears (Comp doesn't check each gear, only a
statistical sampling). Comp replaced the cams and eventually gave him one
with the "NASCAR" treatment" (filed, wire brushed on a wire wheel, and bead
blasted). Steve supplied some notes and photos of his ordeal which can be
viewed at Dave William's website:
http://www.bacomatic.org/~dw/sgdist/sgdist.htm
No matter what gear you use, make sure the gear is in the proper location.
A replacement distributor gear may or may not have a holed drilled in it.
Ford cautions that the hole should not be used for alignment purposes.
Position the gear to the proper location, then drill a new hole 90 degree
to the old hole. Dykem the contact pattern. Pull and inspect gear after
a while. Make sure the gear is not bottoming out and binding and that the
oil pump driveshaft isn't too long. MSD recommends using a moly lube to
break-in the cam/distributor gears. They say squirting it on the gear is
insufficient and suggest using a toothbrush to work it into the pores of
the metal.
I went with Crane's steel gear with my Crane hydraulic roller cam. Here's
some info from Crane's website:
Steel Distributor Gears
Crane Cams now offers six part numbers of precision machined, steel distributor
gears for popular Ford engines using steel roller camshafts. Roller lifter cams
are made from either induction hardened steel or carburized steel. Neither of
these materials are compatible with the normal stock distributor gears. In the
past "bronze" distributor gears were used. For street applications these gears
wear at an excessive rate and have to be replaced on a regular basis.
By using modern heat treating and manufacturing processes, Crane Cams has
developed a series of steel distributor gears that are compatible with both
induction hardened and carburized steel roller lifter cams. Crane Cams now
makes it possible to use a steel distributor gear that provides OEM-style
life-span, eliminating the need to frequently replace bronze alloy gears. These
new Crane steel gears are available for most Ford engines for both stock and
aftermarket distributors.
The use of these gears on camshafts that have been previously run with other
types or materials of gears, or the unnecessary use of high volume/high
pressure oil pumps, can be severely detrimental to the life of the camshaft
gear.
Note: The "Shaft Diameter" dimension referred to is the portion of the
distributor shaft that the gear registers on. It may be necessary to remove the
original gear to measure the shaft diameter correctly.
52970-1 FORD V-8 70-82, BOSS 351-351C-351M-400 FOR .500 SHAFT DIAMETER
52971-1 FORD V-8 70-82, BOSS 351-351C-351M-400 FOR .531 SHAFT DIAMETER
And from Comp's website:
Carbon Ultra-Poly Composite Distributor Gear
COMP CamsR is proud to introduce the latest in Hi-Tech distributor gears.
Manufactured from Carbon Ultra-Poly these gears represent the future of
distributor gears. We have them available for Small & Big Block Chevrolets with
.500 or .491 distributor shafts and Ford FW applications. These gears have
undergone stringent testing in various applications with positive results.
These super tough gears show great promise in solving the wear issues
associated with bronze gears in racing applications. COMP CamsR is pleased to
bring you another innovative product, call today for more information on these
gears and our other fine products.
Ford-FW Beveled Tooth Gear, Fits Shaft Diameter 0.530" w/ Beveled tooth
Now available for Ford 302-351W engines, the COMP CamsR Composite Distributor
Gear is the fix many Ford engine builders have longed for to overcome bronze
distributor gear wear problems. Made from Carbon Ultra-Poly, these gears have
undergone stringent field and dyno testing to ensure they exceed all durability
and performance claims.
Dan Jones
Dan,
You are the man!
Because there has been no "noise" on the internet lately about "eaten" distributor gears OR wiped out cam lobes, I've assumed these problems were laid to rest.
The Blue Oval Performance/Crane steel gear sounds like the hot tip to me. I get a bit peeved about problems like this, you would think a gear compatible with all cams would not be a difficult item to design, it's not rocket science anyway!
My observations about the distributor gear & cam lobe wear problems are: the problems seemed to arise with the shift of parts manufacturing in China; not every cam or every distributor gear had a problem. So is it a quality control issue? Perhaps not every part had the same quality of metal, or the same grade of heat treat? Seems that way to me. If it were a design issue the instance of trouble would have been greater. But this is all a moot point. I don't read of problems any longer, so I assume the situation is better.
Oh, and by the way, yeah I meant bronze. Thanks for watching my back. (my excuse is old age)
George
You are the man!
Because there has been no "noise" on the internet lately about "eaten" distributor gears OR wiped out cam lobes, I've assumed these problems were laid to rest.
The Blue Oval Performance/Crane steel gear sounds like the hot tip to me. I get a bit peeved about problems like this, you would think a gear compatible with all cams would not be a difficult item to design, it's not rocket science anyway!
My observations about the distributor gear & cam lobe wear problems are: the problems seemed to arise with the shift of parts manufacturing in China; not every cam or every distributor gear had a problem. So is it a quality control issue? Perhaps not every part had the same quality of metal, or the same grade of heat treat? Seems that way to me. If it were a design issue the instance of trouble would have been greater. But this is all a moot point. I don't read of problems any longer, so I assume the situation is better.
Oh, and by the way, yeah I meant bronze. Thanks for watching my back. (my excuse is old age)
George
> The Blue Oval Performance/Crane steel gear sounds like the hot tip to me.
I'm hoping it is the gear to run with an 8620 core as that's what I purchased.
For austempered ductile iron cores, I'd probably try the Ford Motorsport gear,
though the Crane gear should work. I've got 200K miles on the stock hydraulic
roller cam and gear in my Mustang so I know it works.
> My observations about the distributor gear & cam lobe wear problems are: the
> problems seemed to arise with the shift of parts manufacturing in China; not
> every cam or every distributor gear had a problem. So is it a quality control
> issue?
Part of it was quality control but not all. I think some is due to materials
and also the removal of the ZDDP anti-scuffing additive from automotive oils.
ZDDP is a zinc additive that helps prevent scuffing (important when new cars
came with flat tappet cams) but was removed because it hurts catalytic
converter life when an engine starts burning oil. GM engine oil supplement
(EOS) has a lot of ZDDP in it. Also, diesel or motorcycle oil has ZDDP.
15W-40 Mobil Delvac is a conventional oil for diesels with ZDDP and 5W-40
Delvac 1 is synthetic (Delvac 1 is the diesel oil equivalent to Mobil
1). I'm told Bardahl 1 is the same stuff as GM EOS but is much cheaper
(available at Wal Mart). I run Delvac in my flat tappet engines.
> (my excuse is old age)
Heh, heh, heh.
Dan Jones
I'm hoping it is the gear to run with an 8620 core as that's what I purchased.
For austempered ductile iron cores, I'd probably try the Ford Motorsport gear,
though the Crane gear should work. I've got 200K miles on the stock hydraulic
roller cam and gear in my Mustang so I know it works.
> My observations about the distributor gear & cam lobe wear problems are: the
> problems seemed to arise with the shift of parts manufacturing in China; not
> every cam or every distributor gear had a problem. So is it a quality control
> issue?
Part of it was quality control but not all. I think some is due to materials
and also the removal of the ZDDP anti-scuffing additive from automotive oils.
ZDDP is a zinc additive that helps prevent scuffing (important when new cars
came with flat tappet cams) but was removed because it hurts catalytic
converter life when an engine starts burning oil. GM engine oil supplement
(EOS) has a lot of ZDDP in it. Also, diesel or motorcycle oil has ZDDP.
15W-40 Mobil Delvac is a conventional oil for diesels with ZDDP and 5W-40
Delvac 1 is synthetic (Delvac 1 is the diesel oil equivalent to Mobil
1). I'm told Bardahl 1 is the same stuff as GM EOS but is much cheaper
(available at Wal Mart). I run Delvac in my flat tappet engines.
> (my excuse is old age)
Heh, heh, heh.
Dan Jones