Hey guys thought I would chime in here.
Here are a couple options for you.
#1. Stock appearing wheels in whatever size you guys want made from 6061T6 billet aluminum CNC machined with your choice of finish(polised, blasted and painted to look original?) would run around $6k set with purchase of 6 sets.
#2. Make a mold and cast a center to look original but be able to use different hoops for width of customers choice. Molds cost about $5k but can make thousands of wheels. Cost for a set of these cast wheels would be about $2k but requires the up front mold cost and a purchase of about 25 sets.
Just some food for thought.
Mark, your comments about the brochure car are spot on. I remember my first Mangusta 'sightings'.....one of the KEY things that stood out and caught my attention was that GIANT tractor tire on the rear with clearance of about .000000000000001 inch 
Yeah, it's a cool look as long as you're not actually moving!
I just changed all my Pantera suspension components and with the new coil-overs pre-set them to what I figured was the correct height. When I lowered the car there was about 1/4 inch clearance above the wheel. I LOVED how it looked, but now what would happen after I hit a pebble on the road... At least with the Goose the wheels are inset enough that there likely wouldn't be any rubbing. Not that I know because I've only ever pushed my Mangusta, and never over a bump!
I think that a set of original looking wheels in the $2500 max/set range would likely entice me, and I suspect many others, to buy a set. I think that Steve W is aiming for exactly this approach and suspect we will have a "stock-mod" solution pretty soon in 17" and possibly 18" x various widths. If not, those PI wheels look pretty damn good to me. I might even have to go with the same paint scheme as well. Hmmm.
Mark
I just changed all my Pantera suspension components and with the new coil-overs pre-set them to what I figured was the correct height. When I lowered the car there was about 1/4 inch clearance above the wheel. I LOVED how it looked, but now what would happen after I hit a pebble on the road... At least with the Goose the wheels are inset enough that there likely wouldn't be any rubbing. Not that I know because I've only ever pushed my Mangusta, and never over a bump!
I think that a set of original looking wheels in the $2500 max/set range would likely entice me, and I suspect many others, to buy a set. I think that Steve W is aiming for exactly this approach and suspect we will have a "stock-mod" solution pretty soon in 17" and possibly 18" x various widths. If not, those PI wheels look pretty damn good to me. I might even have to go with the same paint scheme as well. Hmmm.
Mark
That was a rear wheel. I think the original lip was bent and could be straightened but I feel more at ease driving on wheels that were never bent.
Soap-box time! Relative to cast magnesium wheels, the stuff has the peculiar property of 'age-hardening', getting harder and more brittle while sitting quietly on a shelf, or mounted on a seldom-used car. Aircraft engineers refer to magnesium as 'compressed corrosion' from its chemical reactivity and porosity. Internal stresses build up in the castings until cracks appear. The stresses can be annealed in Mom's oven at 350 F degrees for 3 hours followed by VERY slow cooling. If possible, take the hot wheel out, wrap it in blankets & return the wheel to the still hot but 'off' oven until the next day. Annealing heat will turn the stock protective paint tan. Interestingly, professional powder-coating anneals mag during the curing process, as does properly done TIG-weld repairs. Annealing of all magnesium Campys should probably be done for safety every 10 years or so.
Second, three piece aluminum 'racing' wheels do not belong on street cars. I've seen far too many break on the road, in all sorts of interesting and expensive ways. The thin inners & outers fracture, the connecting bolts to the cast centers pull out or unloosen, centers break in two and catastrophic decompression occurs. One owner had bolts come loose coming down Mt Charleston in Las Vegas. When the dust settled, his Pantera was 100 feet off the road and had no front suspension. The last one I'd heard failing was last Fall, parked after a 'spirited' drive; suddenly there was a loud noise and one 3-piece 17x 11 rear wheel was 4-piece! Unless you can do a thorough inspection of the parts like racing teams do (sometimes with X-ray), stay away from all 3-piece wheels. Race teams usually throw away wheel halves after a year of use, or after any off-road excursion. Please do not use these- I have no spare friends!
Second, three piece aluminum 'racing' wheels do not belong on street cars. I've seen far too many break on the road, in all sorts of interesting and expensive ways. The thin inners & outers fracture, the connecting bolts to the cast centers pull out or unloosen, centers break in two and catastrophic decompression occurs. One owner had bolts come loose coming down Mt Charleston in Las Vegas. When the dust settled, his Pantera was 100 feet off the road and had no front suspension. The last one I'd heard failing was last Fall, parked after a 'spirited' drive; suddenly there was a loud noise and one 3-piece 17x 11 rear wheel was 4-piece! Unless you can do a thorough inspection of the parts like racing teams do (sometimes with X-ray), stay away from all 3-piece wheels. Race teams usually throw away wheel halves after a year of use, or after any off-road excursion. Please do not use these- I have no spare friends!
Jack,
I understood that some of the late Mangusta wheels were aluminum not magnesium. Other than the noticeable weight difference, is there and easy way to tell the difference on a painted wheel? Or, was I misinformed and they are ALL magnesium?
Mark
I understood that some of the late Mangusta wheels were aluminum not magnesium. Other than the noticeable weight difference, is there and easy way to tell the difference on a painted wheel? Or, was I misinformed and they are ALL magnesium?
Mark
Not sure if they were early or late, but they do exist. I've held an aluminum Mangusta wheel and one way to tell is, its about twice the weight of a magnesium one! Don't remember the backside casting marks- maybe Steve will chime in?
OK, the latest 7" rim that I picked up weighs in at 18lb 3oz. bare. Everything else that I have has tires on them....
I "believe" it to be aluminum....but it could be magnesium that was recently "shined up a bit" for sale purposes.... It does have some darker stained sections but not having enough experience with aluminum or magnesium...cannot say for certain one way or da udda!
It has no markings on the rim, front or backside.
My one odd 7" rim on my car, (replaced in 1972ish) has CAMPAGNOLO cast right into one of the spokes in raised letters. Wheel has very crisp lines, and had the DeT spare wheel part number written on the inside in grease pencil, found when I pulled the old tire off to have the rims powder coated! Other four rims had nothing....but sand casting holes...!
Steve
I "believe" it to be aluminum....but it could be magnesium that was recently "shined up a bit" for sale purposes.... It does have some darker stained sections but not having enough experience with aluminum or magnesium...cannot say for certain one way or da udda!
It has no markings on the rim, front or backside.
My one odd 7" rim on my car, (replaced in 1972ish) has CAMPAGNOLO cast right into one of the spokes in raised letters. Wheel has very crisp lines, and had the DeT spare wheel part number written on the inside in grease pencil, found when I pulled the old tire off to have the rims powder coated! Other four rims had nothing....but sand casting holes...!
Steve
I just acquired my second goose wheel...a 7" front, it is on my way to me right now. I now have one rear and one front....can anyone part with one rear and one front to complete my set? Awaiting eagerly with cash
one at a time is better than nothing so far
Mike S.
one at a time is better than nothing so far
Mike S.
Regarding the grey goose. I made the same mistake of using 295/40/18 for the rear. I changed it to 295/45/18 and it does not have the space opening in the wheel well.
If you haven't seen it - apparently this guy Cesare Magistrali owns all the original detomaso wheel molds and are planning on casting wheels in magnesium:
mangusta wheel molds
Kristian
mangusta wheel molds
Kristian
That's true. Cesare owns the molds, and I am trying to get a significant group order for Pantera GR4. If there are sufficient orders for Mangusta, why not grouping an extra order ? Cesare is a real professional, with a huge experience, and we are planning a meeting soon in Italy.
Patrick
Candy factory GR4 2862, ADA Le Mans 9628
Patrick
Candy factory GR4 2862, ADA Le Mans 9628
in the meantime, if anyone needs an 'original' magnesium REAR wheel, selling on ebay right now
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...X%3AIT#ht_500wt_1129
Having now owned both the magnesium and aluminum variety, the differences are; the weight obviously and the aluminum wheels are a LOT smoother cast, the magnesium wheels are rough, but cool!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...X%3AIT#ht_500wt_1129
Having now owned both the magnesium and aluminum variety, the differences are; the weight obviously and the aluminum wheels are a LOT smoother cast, the magnesium wheels are rough, but cool!
I have also communicated with Cesare, nice guy, and expressed interest in acquiring the 10" version of the Mangusta wheel, if anyone else is interested, perhaps mention it on this thread and see if there is a bigger interest!quote:Originally posted by Mang:
in the meantime, if anyone needs an 'original' magnesium REAR wheel, selling on ebay right now
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...X%3AIT#ht_500wt_1129
Having now owned both the magnesium and aluminum variety, the differences are; the weight obviously and the aluminum wheels are a LOT smoother cast, the magnesium wheels are rough, but cool!
I am confident there is interest in a group buy of the 10" Mangusta wheels. In fact, there may already be something in the works with Cesare (after he's done with Patricks GR4 order). They (the 10" wheels) are stunning and fit the wheel well unbelievably well (don't ask me how I know this). I definitely want a set in Aluminum. Magnesium would be nice, but not worth the cost to me as I will never derive the performance benefits of the lightness and prefer the better finish possible with aluminum. Where do I sign up?
Mark
Mark
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IIRC, there is a note in the Goose parts books for a hub carrier that was specific to the larger offset rims that you speak of......
I suspect that it was on the infamous "wall chassis" and perhaps a few of the first cars....but who knows....
Just something to throw out there...... It would be a shame to order new rear wheels only to find out that the more common hub carrier doesn't allow it to fit.....
Sure would be nice to have an original 10" wheel to try on a late car!!!!
Steve
I suspect that it was on the infamous "wall chassis" and perhaps a few of the first cars....but who knows....
Just something to throw out there...... It would be a shame to order new rear wheels only to find out that the more common hub carrier doesn't allow it to fit.....
Sure would be nice to have an original 10" wheel to try on a late car!!!!
Steve
FWIW, I've read of the stock rear wheels being 7-1/2" x 15, and 8" x 15. Which is correct- or are they both found on some 'Gooses?
Either way, 10" wide rears would be a huge size increase, needing 275, 285 or 295-50 tires. I'd suggest putting the stock 7-1/2 or 8" rear wheels up front to better balance your Goose with such big rear wheels, just like we do with the Pantera and it's optional 10 x 15 Campys.
Either way, 10" wide rears would be a huge size increase, needing 275, 285 or 295-50 tires. I'd suggest putting the stock 7-1/2 or 8" rear wheels up front to better balance your Goose with such big rear wheels, just like we do with the Pantera and it's optional 10 x 15 Campys.
quote:Originally posted by Bosswrench:
I'd suggest putting the stock 7-1/2 or 8" rear wheels up front to better balance your Goose with such big rear wheels, just like we do with the Pantera and it's optional 10 x 15 Campys.
Damn, my evil plan exposed...
quote:Originally posted by Mangusta:
IIRC, there is a note in the Goose parts books for a hub carrier that was specific to the larger offset rims that you speak of......
Sure would be nice to have an original 10" wheel to try on a late car!!!!
Steve
Wow, GREAT catch Steve. We should follow up with Cesare and ask him, since he has all the moulds and should be able to determine if the hub aspect is different.
Thanks for that!
Mark
those 10" rims look SICK!!! I have always lusted after them, seeing them on factory photos of chassis and on this gorgeous 'racecar'
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Glad to get in line behind Mark on this one... a pair in aluminum would be excellent! Hope things work out, any others interested? Thanks for highlighting the possibility - Nate S