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Looks great, Marlin…. Nice to see the build completed, and documented.

Just as a thought exercise…. If you made them in volume, would you do anything different?

Now that you have the process down, and (again, conversationally) you were going to make 10 sets, would your labor be tripled, or more?

Just curious…. There’s always a lot of learning in the first build…

PS.  This is a popular thread with over 8000 views!  People are interested!

Last edited by rocky

...Thank You! for the feedback.

I meant to add this photo of the Headlights I installed Years ago. Purchased from 'SACC Resto', Very Bright-Pure White...and remember, they are DOT Certified! Installation involves 'some' Cutting and Drilling of the Bulb Housings. They come Pre- Aimed.

As far as the question of what I would change on the Next-First Set...For Sale. First NO guarantees of fit!! There's a Lot of room for 'Dis-Satisfaction'!

I would start with the Proven design for (7) Louvers, all else the Same, I.E. Aluminum Slats at 0.090" Thick, Flat head screws, Thumb-nut adjusters, twin beam supports...all of it. It was a LOT of Work, many Hours.

I would not purchase So Many Screws and other Hardware, I never needed. Now I know Exactly what I Need.

I would Hire a Team of Qualified Machinists to perform Operations to My Specific Instructions. Or I could just Sell a Sets Of 'Blueprints', accuracy Proven.

Machining the Stainless Brackets would be the Hardest Part. 'If' I were going to commit to this venture, I would need Half of the Money Contracted 'Up front'. And, I don't know what I Could charge for a price. I would do 3 Sets! 'Waiting Time' would be Immense!

Thanks for Your Input!

uOther Questions Please Ask. I'm here to help move the Pantera into the 3rd Millenium!

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...sorry not necessary. It was a legitimate question. I welcome them. You remind me, that a Open Louver set is absolutely Doable.

I wanted to keep the Beams Whole to maintain rigidity.

When That no Longer matters...I can Split the Beams At the Space Between Slats #'s 1 and 2, and machine a very nice Pivot Point, there.

Then all You have to do, to open is, Pull the (2) Quick Disconnect Pins in the rear yokes and Raise Up! But to Access those QD Pins, one must first remove the #5 Louver, But I Like the Design and May do it on the next System. I would drop the Yokes and QD Pins, and go with a Electric Release, Electro-Magnet. Great Ideas.

I'm adding 3 photos, 2 Looking out the Back Window. Looking closely one can see the 'Knurled Thumb Nuts' 12 in All (6 each side), along the passenger side Rail. Infinite adjustment possible, pivoting on the Forward Screw. Then Lock. Can also be seen, the Analog Fuel Pressure Gauge. You Never want to bring Gasoline into the Cockpit.*

3rd Pic...welcome to My Office. You Don't Climb into this cockpit...You Slip It On!

*But You CAN bring in this Gauge, a Digital RED LED Fuel Pressure Monitor (about 1 inch thick). I read 5.1 PSIG while cruizing on the Freeways. Sourced at the Regulator mounted directly to a Holley Electric High Pressure Pump. The Regulator has a return line back to the Tank. So the Pump Never Stalls, Never stops. I suppose the recirculating of gasoline around and back to the tank could cause it to heat up, I never had Vapor Lock, No Problems.inainbinc

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Last edited by marlinjack

Congratulations  on a project well done,I have enjoyed you sharing the processes you have gone through,it's amazing how we we look at the different accessories from the past,and how difficult it can be recreating and improving them can be.it truly takes a craftsman.  I have the carbon fiber coming for my vision of lovers,and will soon be casting the mounting pads for them, hope to share a completed set in a month or so.  Thanks again Marlin

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