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...The Flathead Screws need to be trimmed to flush. I need to Machine Beefier Stainless Pins.

Then...Final Assembly with Measured and Machined, Spacers, in Aluminum. All 7 Slats aimed where they should be, just 'Below' Level.

I going to Drop the idea of a 'Double Jam-Nut' (they would add too much weight). Things we can't Predict until the Actual Assembly Process.

Stay Tuned...

Last edited by marlinjack

Percy – I laughed, but I know for a fact, Marlin has a lot of hours into these things!

(I know your comment was a light-hearted one!)

I have just taken a job as the Junior Assistant Apprentice Machinist at the Old Pueblo Trolley Machine Shop and everything that I try to do takes about four times what I expect it will!

What’s that old Machinist saying? You can have it fast, with high quality, and cheap.

Pick Two!

(…. and you’re unlikely to ever get high quality & cheap, no matter how long it takes!)

Last edited by rocky

...I have been wanting to recommend this Book for some time.

Any of the members reading this whom have picked up a Drill and Other, to perform 'Machining' Work...Can and will benefit from reading this book. Not cover to cover, but just what you're interested in Learning. Even those with 60+ Years of Machine Shop Experience, will find something in this book, they did Not Know!

As far as 'Machining', if it is NOT in this Book, or another Edition...'It' just Does NOT Exist!

I have had this 22nd Edition since July 1986, I have found No need to purchase a Newer Edition, they are up to the 32nd, now $108.00. I paid $27.00 for this one, and Many can be found on Ebay, for even Less.

I strongly suggest you become a New Owner of One!! The Knowledge Gained Here is Engrossing and Festinating. 2512 PAGES.abcdefgh

Good-Luck and Happy Machining!

Enjoy the Reading!

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...Machinists Also say,

"An Emergency on Your Part, Does NOT constitute a Emergency On Mine!"

I remember one Job I was doing. I was working on 3 Tiny, 90 Degree Stainless Steel Gearboxes, that were going into a Satellite to Extend Solar Panels. So Small You could hold them in Your Hands! This was late in the Evening-Overtime. I was 'Polishing to FIT' 0.5000" Diameter Shafts, back and forth from test fitting to Lathe. multiple times. While the NASA Engineer Stood Over Me Watching, as I Assembled, and Torqued,  all 3!! I believe they had to be +- 0.0001" Because they were designed to Handle ALL Extremes of Hot and Cold! and NO Grease!!

As far as I know, that Satellite is Still in the Solar System, Or Farther Out. I was Not Told which One it Was, or even the 'Why' they had Me Working on It. NASA does have their own Machine Shops, I Thought.

I put the Gearboxes in his hands, and the Man turned and Left in a hurry, Satisfied...Not even a Thank You!

Marlins' Quote. "You Can't RUSH Precision!" and I was once Accused of 'Moving Too Slow' through the Shop, during My evaluation! My reply, "I take offense of that Madam! If I were to Move through this Shop, any Faster, I'd Be RUNNING!"

Last edited by marlinjack

All Finished but Cutting screws to length.

Screws are jammed into the Beam with a inverted Brass Knurled Thumb Nut, tightening the Louver upwards, to Jam against the Screw Head. That makes each Louver Infinitely Adjustable for Angles, and Locking. Fingerprints are do to be wiped off.

The wing will be left off while testing.al jal j1al mal nal oal pal sal tal val w

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Last edited by marlinjack

...with all the Screws, thumb nuts and washers, and adding the 'Mounting Plate', about 16.5 Lbs. Not including the Stainless Pins and Hinge Brackets. The Louvers ran well! Surprisingly Quite! No Banging, no rattles or squeaks. Very little vibration. Some light flutter at a couple of ends, but ending. I thought they might 'Whistle', but No, Silence! I'm very happy with the Outcome. Don't want to put the Wing back on...but probably Will.

All the Best,   

Last edited by marlinjack

Looks great, Marlin…. Nice to see the build completed, and documented.

Just as a thought exercise…. If you made them in volume, would you do anything different?

Now that you have the process down, and (again, conversationally) you were going to make 10 sets, would your labor be tripled, or more?

Just curious…. There’s always a lot of learning in the first build…

PS.  This is a popular thread with over 8000 views!  People are interested!

Last edited by rocky

...Thank You! for the feedback.

I meant to add this photo of the Headlights I installed Years ago. Purchased from 'SACC Resto', Very Bright-Pure White...and remember, they are DOT Certified! Installation involves 'some' Cutting and Drilling of the Bulb Housings. They come Pre- Aimed.

As far as the question of what I would change on the Next-First Set...For Sale. First NO guarantees of fit!! There's a Lot of room for 'Dis-Satisfaction'!

I would start with the Proven design for (7) Louvers, all else the Same, I.E. Aluminum Slats at 0.090" Thick, Flat head screws, Thumb-nut adjusters, twin beam supports...all of it. It was a LOT of Work, many Hours.

I would not purchase So Many Screws and other Hardware, I never needed. Now I know Exactly what I Need.

I would Hire a Team of Qualified Machinists to perform Operations to My Specific Instructions. Or I could just Sell a Sets Of 'Blueprints', accuracy Proven.

Machining the Stainless Brackets would be the Hardest Part. 'If' I were going to commit to this venture, I would need Half of the Money Contracted 'Up front'. And, I don't know what I Could charge for a price. I would do 3 Sets! 'Waiting Time' would be Immense!

Thanks for Your Input!

uOther Questions Please Ask. I'm here to help move the Pantera into the 3rd Millenium!

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...sorry not necessary. It was a legitimate question. I welcome them. You remind me, that a Open Louver set is absolutely Doable.

I wanted to keep the Beams Whole to maintain rigidity.

When That no Longer matters...I can Split the Beams At the Space Between Slats #'s 1 and 2, and machine a very nice Pivot Point, there.

Then all You have to do, to open is, Pull the (2) Quick Disconnect Pins in the rear yokes and Raise Up! But to Access those QD Pins, one must first remove the #5 Louver, But I Like the Design and May do it on the next System. I would drop the Yokes and QD Pins, and go with a Electric Release, Electro-Magnet. Great Ideas.

I'm adding 3 photos, 2 Looking out the Back Window. Looking closely one can see the 'Knurled Thumb Nuts' 12 in All (6 each side), along the passenger side Rail. Infinite adjustment possible, pivoting on the Forward Screw. Then Lock. Can also be seen, the Analog Fuel Pressure Gauge. You Never want to bring Gasoline into the Cockpit.*

3rd Pic...welcome to My Office. You Don't Climb into this cockpit...You Slip It On!

*But You CAN bring in this Gauge, a Digital RED LED Fuel Pressure Monitor (about 1 inch thick). I read 5.1 PSIG while cruizing on the Freeways. Sourced at the Regulator mounted directly to a Holley Electric High Pressure Pump. The Regulator has a return line back to the Tank. So the Pump Never Stalls, Never stops. I suppose the recirculating of gasoline around and back to the tank could cause it to heat up, I never had Vapor Lock, No Problems.inainbinc

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Last edited by marlinjack

Congratulations  on a project well done,I have enjoyed you sharing the processes you have gone through,it's amazing how we we look at the different accessories from the past,and how difficult it can be recreating and improving them can be.it truly takes a craftsman.  I have the carbon fiber coming for my vision of lovers,and will soon be casting the mounting pads for them, hope to share a completed set in a month or so.  Thanks again Marlin

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