New cam shaft

I did mine from inside the car.

It is true you can replace it from in the car, but getting the timing cover off/on and getting it to seal with the oil pan in place is difficult. If you have a removable cross member you can drop the pan and make it much easier.

72-P, as was said, the stock under-engine crossmember was spot-welded in place. A '75 factory update was a bolt-in removeable crossmember ass'y and many Panteras have already had this done; check before panic-ing. The stock welded crossmember can be removed via Sawzall with the engine in the car, but it's truly more trouble than it's worth and takes much skill handling this dangerous tool. Note the pan drops about 6", then must slide forward about 8" for the oil pump pickup to clear the pan baffle(s) inside. This means the welded e-brake bracket a few inches in front of the engine also needs to be made removeable, too. Bite the bullet and pull the engine & ZF.

Once it's out, you can make the e-brake bracket and crossmember removeable, and do other necessary maintenence in the area. Sure, its a lot of trouble but the alternative is not doing engine work. And once done, the car will forever be easier to work on and worth more for the (factory) updates.

You only need to drop the pan about 1/2" inch in the front.
I've changed camshafts in Panteras about 6 times by doing it this way and using silicone on the gasket surfaces. No leaks yet.
It is a good idea to install the removable cross member.
The original cork pan gaskets will leak eventually and need to be changed.
At that point install the new one piece silicone pan gasket. It will last forever and needs no additional sealant. Those things are great.

Thanks for all the insight. I clearly have some thinking to do.

Doug, just wondering what cams you are running now?

I just replaced my cam a couple months ago. Did it with the engine in the car, never touched the oil pan bolts for any reason. The cover will come off by prying it slightly at the top and can be reinstalled by placing a screwdriver in one of the upper holes and pressing the cover down and into the oil pan seal. It takes a bit of effort, but a whole lot less than pulling the engine! By the way, I have no oil leaks whatsoever after the job.

a little trimming of the internal tabs on the front pan seal rail goes a long way to getting the cover back on w/o loosening the oil pan. I also trim on the tips of the used front pan seal, a little dab of silicone in the corners and I've not had a leak either

I use a leverage tool in each of the water pump port holes to push down on the cover and she'll pop in, down & onto the dowels

quote:

Originally posted by 72pantera:
Thanks for all the insight. I clearly have some thinking to do.

Doug, just wondering what cams you are running now?

I'm using this one. The A3 heads really like it. I do too.

It tends to spit up all over Gucci loafers and the 180 headers drown out the chorus of Aida, so there are those who consider it tripe. They know who they are.

Sounds like a GT40 at redline. I love it though...for now.

http://www.compcams.com/Compan...s.aspx?csid=861&sb=2

PanteraDoug, Where did you find a one piece oil pan gasket for a Cleveland? I have only found those for a Windsor? I have used those on my 302 and the do work great. Thanks, Evan

quote:

Originally posted by Wasatch Cat:
PanteraDoug, Where did you find a one piece oil pan gasket for a Cleveland? I have only found those for a Windsor? I have used those on my 302 and the do work great. Thanks, Evan

I haven't. Just on my 302.

Used the Felpro "rubber coated" on the Pantera when I did the Aviad oil pan. That was a while ago but has had no problems with two cam changes to this car.

Felpro hasn't released a one piece silicone gasket for the C yet.