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-8 is what I see get used a lot on oil cooler systems. I'm running a -10. It is small and flexible enough to work on my car.

It is also much larger than any oil ports in the engine.

Although oil pumps have been discussed before on this forum and some have the opinion that the stock pump is adequate, with an external oil cooler and additional lines of hose my personal feeling is that a "high volume" pump makes more sense.

My high volume pump gives me 80 psi of pressure and never drops below 35 hot at idle.
If you ever get into a situation with 100 degree heat in stop and go traffic, an oil cooler is nice. It can help supplement the cooling. I have noticed overheating in cars that the coolant stays in check until the oil starts to rise above normal levels. At that point the coolant trails up in temp.

This means that if you begin to over temp your bottom end already is.

I really don't know how anything could be simpler than a sandwich filter adapter and a cooler. In fact, draining, filling and burping the Patera cooling system is such a PIA I avoid touching it if I don't have to.

Everyone knows the oil coolers in the wheel well are in stagnate air and don't do much until you add a fan. Adding a fan they do work well.

I set mine up with 2 temp sensors; one before the cooler and one after. I have a switch on the dash where I can flip to either sensor.

If my oil starts climbing more than it needs to all I do is flip a switch and the fan comes on. You can tell in short order the large difference in incoming oil and exiting oil temp as the overall temp comes down.

Simple, and you have control over it. Install is easier than just draining, filling an burping your coolant.

quote:
Originally posted by GT4Peter:
Is -8an thick enough for the tube/ hose?
Thanks


It is probably ok. I feel safer with a -10 because of where the cooler is located in relationship to the oil feed out of the oil filter location.

There is at least 10 feet of hose involved.



As far as locating the oil cooler itself inside of the right wheel well being a stagnate air location, the Gp4 cars had them located there. The movement of the tire draws air through the cooler.

I do remember discussing this with Gary Hall. He swore by it. Said that he took one of his cars, put it up on a lift and just let the car run in gear for a couple of hours. HE claimed it reduced the oil temps 20 degrees.



You only NEED the fan if you want circulation while the car is in motion BUT even if it was in front of the car, that would be the same situation.

My oil cooler fan is on an automatic thermostatic switch. Comes on at 212F. A manual switch is an option. It is only useful to cool the drivers paranoia? Wink
I have the cooler in the front,it is a porsche rsr cooler style with -12 an fittings . The problem is : -12 an is realy big and I found no space on the floor downside for the oil lines/hoses. So I am a little bit frustratet. Even the holes in the f**ing oil filter relocation system are only 3/4 inch.
A friend of mine have a original gt5s with a cooler in the front and a thermostate oilfilter adapter. You mount this adapter between engine and filter, the thermostate is automatic and allready build in. On this plate are installed 13.5 mm inside and about 22 mm outside black rubber oil lines/ hoses, wich were running in the gt5s side panels to the front. A verry easy and clear instalation.
quote:
Originally posted by GT4Peter:
Does anybody know where to buy a spacer plate with a thermostate inside? Like the one from my friend ? Thanks


http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-CO...AOSwcj5ZSlaG&vxp=mtr

Comes from China. You get pork fried rice and wonton soup with it.

This type of adapter seems simple to use but they tend to develop leaks because the hoses tend to want to rotate it.

I thought it was better to just put a straight adapter plate on the oil filter output, relocate the filter to the chassis on the right rear chassis (near the starter), install a dual filter, then plumb in a separate thermostat that is easily accessible.

Of course this means that the right rear wheel/tire needs to be removed BUT once it is, everything is right there.
3/4 IS a -12. -12 hose is going to be very difficult to work with on a Pantera for this application.

What's the sense of using a hose adapter with a 3/8 pipe thread to a 3/4" (-12) hose?


I personally would look at doing the lines in 3/4" stainless tube rather then -12 hose. The hose is very stiff and you can bend the tubing with a tighter radius then you can bend the hose to.

Chinese lunch here is $5.00. I can't beat that.

No gas from it like with the bratwurst and kapusta either so that helps me concentrate better, otherwise part of me might turn into a French Horn? Wink


You can't really use what Porsche does as a role model in my view. They have very specific applications which rarely translate over to the rest of the world.



You need to think Italian on this, not German. You can get some flavor of that with me. I've got this great Italian restaurant here.

Even the waitress flirts with me and gave me her phone number. She's cute too.

Wifey hates her. Wants to scratch her eyes out. Wifey is Polish. She like perogies and kilbasa. Lucky for me. Cool
[QUOTE]Originally posted by comp2:
If you ever get into a situation with 100 degree heat in stop and go traffic, an oil cooler is nice.

I totally agree with you about an oil cooler keeping water temperatures down. I have two oil coolers on my Pantera. There is a Laminova liquid to oil cooler on the outlet of my radiator and an air oil cooler where the air conditioning condenser was in the rear of the car. The rear oil cooler fan is set to come on when the oil temperature reaches 150 degrees. All oil lines are -10 and there is a high volume Titan oil pump sitting inside of a ten quart baffled aluminum oil pan. This set up is most likely too much for a street driven Pantera, but I have noticed cooler oil temperatures when I track the car. On the trip back from Monterey this year the oil temperature never got above 210 degrees and that was driving in 110 degree heat.
Just to add some ideas.
I put a water to oil cooler on the firewall, then plumbed in a accu-sump. The accu-sump allows me to pre-prime the engine every time I start the car.

Running the oil lines can the tough as they have to be a large diameter (-8 or -10), easier done when the engine is out. Most of the lines are alum tubing with braided lines in a few key areas for stress relief and engine torquing.

Since you are already monkeying around with oil lines, you can consider a remote oil filter making changing the oil all that much easier.

Attachments

quote:
Originally posted by GT4Peter:
Sorry my foult , I read 3/8 and not 3/4 part is ordered allready . Hope that some sushi comes with it :-)


You never know what you will find in the package with your part?

My wife just purchased a "pocket book" from Amazon and found a "new and unused" condom in one of the internal pockets!

She first thought that I had something to do with that, then realized that it was a "regular" size and not the extra large size? So it must have been the little delivery guy who smiled at her? Smiler

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