Yes, but its a LOT of work. There is a welded crossmember just below the pan, and a welded e-brake bellcrank mount in front of the pan, right where you need to pull the unit out. Disconnect the exhaust at the headers, remove the distributor cap, unbolt the motormounts and tranny mounts (2ea), remove the engine screen & aircleaner, unfasten the e-brake cables from their bellcrank, and you're ready to start. Unbolt the pan and lower it as far as you can (a couple of inches), then jack up the engine a few inches. More than that and a bunch of wires and water hoses etc must also be unfastened. You may need to remove the firewall padding and access door so as to be able to rotate the crank to index the counterweights as the pan passes them. You won't have enough control by 'bumping' the starter and could destroy the pan. Getting the shallow part past the oil pump is the worst part. Once the thing is out, I advise cutting the old crossmember out and either making it removeable or buying one of the vendor's replacements. The factory made these removeable in '75 when Ford got out of the project. The e-brake bracket also can be made removeable by cutting it free and adding an angle-iron bracket to the frame. Getting your new 10-qt pan back in with its new baffles around the pump & pickup will be flat impossible without a removeable crossmember, unless you lift the engine & trans about a foot up. You'll have so much stuff unboltd, you might as well pull the powertrain IMHO.
As for the dipstick length, there was a typo in the PI article: The factory Tech Service Bulletins (which all owners should have), Bulletin 5, Article 34 says it should be exactly 38" from stop to tip. Sorry for the confusion.
