Does anyone know how to test oil gage? The temp gauge goes into the red but the car doesn't feel like its overheating radiator was new in 2006. for years never went it to the red. could the radiator be getting clogged up?
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Do you have a problem with the oil pressure gauge AND the water temperature gauge?
If that is the case I would closely check the grounding wire that serves the gauges. It is a daisy chain ground circuit that can benefit from having the end of the factory wiring also attached to chassis ground
Of course you would also check the visible wiring on the engine serving both of the sending units
Have you done any recent work on your car that might have disturbed any wiring connectors ?
Larry
https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...-the-kitchen-counter
@jfb05177 posted:
I decided to test my gauges to see if they even worked. I really wanted to make a test stand and harness, BUT I just used a handful of test leads from my days of “keeping the lights on”. For the senders, I had a 1Kohm multi-turn rheostat that I used to do similar for verifying the controls of 2gigawatt thermal nuclear reactors. The battery was borrowed from my trailer “break away brakes”.
My original gauges responded and the sender resistor values recorded. I discovered a spare fuel gauge I picked up off eBay was bad. Even though it was from a “reputable” vendor, it has been a couple years so I guess I just learned a lesson and maybe will take it apart to see what’s inside
A tidbit I learned was that even though SOBill’s drawings imply a case ground not used, it is indeed needed. Actually the bad gauge does not have the internal connection to case ground and thus only responds ½ to full scale with excessive sender range.
The sequence of steps was to;
Connect battery
Adjust rheostat to align needle to mark
Disconnect rheostat from gauge
Measure rheostat ohms and record
Repeat for the 5 points per guage
ok , sounds like I need to check the ground wire. Is The fuel gauge hooked up to the same ground? because it works fine. That would be great if was only ground problem sick of seeing temp gauge going into the red
I had a similar issue and the solution was cleaning the ground between the transmission and chassis. I had painted the back plate on my ZF trans and that did not allow the ground to work. After cleaning the paint away my gauges worked great.
My original temperature gauge will get to the red zone within 30 seconds of starting the car and then will drop down to near zero a moment later and then spring back to the red zone. I had an additional more modern and accurate temperature gauge installed that in normal driving almost never passes 160*F. In traffic and in warm weather, it might get to 180-190* and yet I still get unnerved when I see my old gauge head to the red.