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Quick question:

When assembling the rear axles with new bearings, there is a shaped washer under the split axle nut.

This washer has a taper on one side and is flat on the other side. The taper, to me, appears that it would face downwards to compensate for any casting irregularities in the head of the splined yoke. This would let the split nut sit against a perfectly flat face when tensioning to the required 400ft/lbs.

But........my washers may have been previously fitted upside down as there are marks on them where they have come into contact by the split nut.

Can anyone verify which way this washer should actually be seated?
But........

Here's the flange. Hard to see but the flange isn't dead flat inside as the casting shape starts to curve slightly. This initially indicated to me to put the washer in with the tapered side down so when it pulls up tight, the tapered part of the washer stays clear of the casting rounded shape.

Then the fully flat face of the washer must contact the split nut, and if that is the case, then why have the slightly raised section on the split nut?

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quote:
then why have the slightly raised section on the split nut?

I've checked all my manuals, and the online sites. Nothing shows this in detail.

But, as you noted, it appears the taper side of the washer should go in first so it stays clear of the rounded shape of the flange.

As for the ridge on the nut, you wouldn't want the full face of the nut pressing on the outer edge of the washer, as the washer radius and the flange rounded shape radius are likely not an exact match. With just the raised edge of the nut contacting the washer, the nut's force is all directed squarely on the bearing area of the washer.

Does that make sense?

Hope I helped.

Larry
Well the plot certainly thickens. Larry thinks as I do, yet John is oposite, thinking that the two ground surfaces on the nut and washer should meet.

It's certainly an interesting one and I'm supried that it hasn't surfaced before. There are a lot of owners who have either changed axles or bearings or both and evryone must come across this sae issue.

I could just put mine back together the way it came apart, but I'm not convinced it was correct to start with.

Logic says that the job of that nut is to pull the flange down onto the bearing at 400+ ft/lbs.

If I sit the washer into the flange it's near on impossible to see if there is clearance to the tapered section of the casting.

If john is right and the raised section of the washer is parallel ground, then it would make sense to do as Larry says and put the washer taper down and tighten the raised section of the split nut down onto the flat side of the washer.

As you can see, my washers are marked pretty badly. Had they been assembled as suggested in the above paragraph, I would only se rotational scoring on the inner 3mm of the washer face and this would give me a good clue.

I have located a 3/4 drive torsion wrench so will try and do this job over the weekend, so if anyone can definatively solve this puzzle in the next day or so it would be most helpful.

Maybe anyone close to CA could give Bob at Precision Pro-Formance a call. I'm sure he could anwer it, especially given that he makes the axles and split nuts.
When we took two different cars apart (71 and 74) and the cupped side/relived side was toward the outside of the car. We assembled it the same way and have had no problems. I think it was designed that way to give a little extra clearance with the splines on the axle and yoke. You will notice that as you slide the yoke on the axel the splines are pretty close to the top of the yoke spines. If the spacer between the bearings has much wear the yoke can stop on the axel splines before the spacer is held tightly between the bearings. This also moves the full force of the compression away from the splined area on the yoke.

Not sure how well I explained this but hope you can follow the attempt.

Mike
Last edited by pantera1887
quote:
Larry thinks as I do, yet John is opposite, thinking that the two ground surfaces on the nut and washer should meet.

I'm not sure John is in disagreement with us.

He merely stated the two sides are parallel, implying that the torque applied to one side is evenly applied to the other.

Which is what we want to happen.

I think as long as the torque is being properly applied, then it becomes an issue of fitment.

And the tapered side of the washer would seem to want to be placed towards the tapered side of the casting.

I've got a call into Bob and he is supposed to call me back.

I'll update when I hear from him.

Larry
I agree with Mike's logic. If the taper were installed toward the yoke (toward the outside of the car), then the smaller diameter seating surface of the washer's tapered side would put the compression force very close to the splines of the yoke.

Inversely, if the taper were installed toward the nut (toward the inside of the car), then the compression force would be farther from the splines of the yoke.

Interesting discussion.

John
Hi guys, I'm working away under my car and just thinking about putting all of the rear suspension back together, and I note that the cover for the petrol tank, like a forward inner guard liner is missing. So basically my left rear wheel is throwing rocks at the petrol tank.

I need to fabricate a new section, but can anyone post images of what it should look like, with particular reference to the ponts of attachment to the body.
Well I managed to get down to Paul's place and have a look at the cover forward of the drivers rear wheel.

Appears to be a totally different shape to the other side of the car and much more complex shape than I expected.

Pauls car has big 20's on the rear and it was a bit hard to see in there.

Does anyone have their car off the road that can take a picture of the petrol tank guard forward of the LHS rear wheel?
How about just tracing it on a Graph paper then e-mail a hi-res photo. The outline does not need to be perfect as the rubber makes-up the gaps, I used a seal from pick-up cab cover.

4NHOTROD did his in stainless steel sheets

Denis
Denis - funny you should mention that.

I have a buddy that is an IT guy with access to a document scanner that can copy the exact size of very large items. We are going to see if we can scan my tracing and then email the JPEG to Robert.

If that doesn’t work I’ll see if I can round up a large sheet of graph paper. Thanks for the idea.
It's not a perfect fit, as I think my quarters have been pumped a bit even before the flares went on, but it's a great starting point.

I went out today and got a couple of sheets of 0.8mm zinc coated steel (2 in case I bugger up the first one) and this weekend I'll have a go at fabricating this missing part of my car.

Many thanks to Devin for this great job.
Today I fitted the new inner rear fender liner, complete with pinch mould. Fully coated in a tar based underbody sealer which I've used elsewhere under the car.

Here's a few pictures. Was certainly great to actually start fitting up the renewed suspension after a few months off the road.

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