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radiator cold engine hot - thermostat?

74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
MSD fixed but next chapter. I filled the cooling system with about 3.5 gals of coolant. Fired it up adjusted the timing/carb, every thing is running great. Temp is about 190 second fan is not on so I think the temp is ok. Go for a drive and engine sounds great. A bit scary with out the bulkhead in. The temp starts to climb and I get home fast an garage her. You can tell it's hot, gauge got a bit above 190. The swirl tank is not to hot but the engine is. The tube to the thermostat is also not to hot and the fluidyne is not hot at all and the hoses feel empty. The coolant was down about 1/2 gal. Well guru's sound like the thermostat? I bought a Robertshaw 333-180 and read that that was the correct one but I did not put it in because it did not look like the one I got from PI. The one from PI was in the old engine and always worked fine so I put it back in, could it have froze setting for a few months? The one with the small hole is from PI.

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joulesjoules"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" - Steve McQueen
The one on the left is the correct Cleveland t-stat with the hat. That is likely a part of your overheating problem as tweh Windsor oen allows coolant to by pass in the block.

The second part of your problem sounds like the second fan is not coming on. Probably either a bad fan/wiring, the thermostatic switch in the radiator or the relay. You couldl always bypass it to the first fan to see if both run that way, if so it's most likey the thermostatic switch.
74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
Brand new Edelbrock aluminum 8844, spun fine before I installed it.... All the cooling tubes were replaced. got to be the thermostat. The one on the right is the one I got from PI and was in the car for a year.So the Robertshaw on the left is OK? I ordered it from Summit per George Pence's old posts. I should have installed it.

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74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
Thanks Richard,

I've got a Fluidyne radiator and it has the bleader petcock on the top left. I did blead it until coolant came out. My plan for tonight is to take out the thermostat and run it without it in and see if it takes more coolant. I'm sure taht I dont have to worry about head gaskets being in backwards I have done that in the way past and made sure they were facing the front, I even took pictures. It just seems like there is no coolant between the engine and the radiator. The comment by ROVERLTD is a thought, that's also why I want to run it without the thermostat, need to see if coolant is moving. My fans are sucker fans, 1 with the ignition on and the other by thermostat or switch if i think it's getting too hot, these are reley controlled and they are working.
George PGeorge PAdmin.
When the internal recirc passage of the cleveland motor is functional, as it is with the edelbrock pump installed, you MUST use the proper thermostat.

What happens with the wrong thermostat, like the one you identify as the "PI" thermostat, is the motor is recirculating a large quantity of coolant full time, even when the motor is running hot.

This is most noticeable after a high speed run, like a cruise on an open highway or a freeway, then slowing down to stop & go traffic. Everything is fine while cruising on the highway or freeway at 60 mph or faster, but once the car slows down and enters stop & go type traffic it begins to boil over immediately.

cowboy from hell
huskerhuskerMember
quote:
Originally posted by Cowboy from Hell:
When the internal recirc passage of the cleveland motor is functional, as it is with the edelbrock pump installed, you MUST use the proper thermostat.

What happens with the wrong thermostat, like the one you identify as the "PI" thermostat, is the motor is recirculating a large quantity of coolant full time, even when the motor is running hot.

This is most noticeable after a high speed run, like a cruise on an open highway or a freeway, then slowing down to stop & go traffic. Everything is fine while cruising on the highway or freeway at 60 mph or faster, but once the car slows down and enters stop & go type traffic it begins to boil over immediately.

cowboy from hell


I came up with a way to "run" the water pump without starting the engine. If the engine is cold does this circulate water throughout the system or only through the recirc line? Also, short of removing the water pump and inspecting it, is there a way to know if the recirc passage is functional? I'm not sure if there are model #s written on the water pump anywhere.
pittcrewpittcrewOwner etc. of 3785
From what George said I might pay to check your old waterpump. If it did not make the bypass system functional then that is why the "PI" thermostat worked.
When you changed to the Edelbrock pump you made the bypass system functional and now require the thermostat to meet that need.
My car had a Weiand pump which does not have the bypass provision and it used a stat like your "PI" stat.
Its worth investigating to know for sure.

I would question Georges advice also, ever since the hot chick avatars and alcohol product placement in his pictures dissappeared I have been worried about him.... Big Grin
74lqqkr74lqqkrMember
I raised the rear and kept burping the radiator and was able to get more coolant in. Started her up and the stat opened the radiator got warm and I added more coolant. The temp stayed around 190, second fan cam on temp went down just as before. Things are good again. now on to the fuel gage problem (post on the electrical forum).

Thanks all
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