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Remote Electric Water Pump

hustlerhustlerMember
Went through a few old threads and saw some different configurations. Almost everyone mentioned going to a remote unit so that the pump drew directly from the radiator vs having to draw water further mounted on the engine. So the remote mount pumps require a block plate and some kind of thicker plate pieces that use the block plate holes to mount to and thread a 90 degree AN or pipe fitting to for the water inlet and outlet.

Those of you running these types of pumps, which brand are you using, what is their GPM rating and how long have they held up. If you can post Part # and Brand that would be great. Are these block plates just custom jobbers everyone has done? I know the main block plate can be had from meziere etc, but wasn't sure about the brackets used to tap the fittings with.
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bigblockfanbigblockfanMember
I have been using the Australian-made Davies Craig electric water pump (EWP115) and thermostatic controller. At 30.38 gallons/minute with my 550hp+ Ford Racing Big Block I have experienced no boil overs or high temps. They recently introduced the EWP150 which flows 40 gpm.

I mounted my pump directly behind the radiator (see picture).

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hustlerhustlerMember
bigblockfan, great idea with the marine water block off plate. wish those were more common for the 351c but i can't find new or used at all. I see hardin and holman moody made these for bbf back in the day. maybe someone knows a supplier for 351c? otherwise i'm back to having someone weld some an fittings to a meziere plate.
bigblockfanbigblockfanMember
Hustler, perhaps you can get an old belt-driven aluminum water pump and remove the pump impeller and plug the drive shaft hole. That way the old pump will act like a water manifold.

I don't think you need AN fittings; just use the large hose coming off the gutted water pump. I only used a blocking plate because I am running a Big Block and a mechanical water pump did not fit.
R 1Rocketship (Guest)
quote:
Originally posted by Hustler:
bigblockfan, great idea with the marine water block off plate. wish those were more common for the 351c but i can't find new or used at all. I see hardin and holman moody made these for bbf back in the day. maybe someone knows a supplier for 351c? otherwise i'm back to having someone weld some an fittings to a meziere plate.
Ask & ye shall receive!!!...Mark

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FOR...LISHED-/261133138859
hustlerhustlerMember
Yeah sorry guys, I should have been more clear. I was looking for a cast thicker piece, but the more I search, I'm finding the cleveland not used for marine applications at all which makes sense for a number of reasons including the dry manifold. So chances of finding a cast piece from a marine applications like the BBF is next to nill.




The block off plates are readily available with the thin billet and and sheetmetal units. I ended up purchasing the meziere off amazon to get the 2 day shipping. The problem is I will need to have someone weld bulkhead AN fittings to it. I was hoping to use a cast piece to easily tap or use existing threading. I'll update this thread as I go.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mezier...em33a0963c47&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet...em58a587b53a&vxp=mtr
joulesjoules"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" - Steve McQueen
Have you talked to Meziere at all about the application? When I spoke with their rep at Hot August Nights a couple years back he recommended mounting a remote pump in the engine bay not behind the Radiator.

He also recommened considering using it as a booster in series with the mechanical pump for maximum cooling efficiency.

Julian
hustlerhustlerMember
Yeah I think if someone wants to make them there would be a market gauging from a past thread on this. For one it opens up room to possibly remove the hump depending on what other accessories you have and where you move them. Also it frees up some power loss the mechanic pump robs from the engine. Then lastly an electric pump can be modulated with a constant flow vs a mechanical which is linear based on the engine rpm. I'm not sure if the standard amp alternator can support the addition of the pump or not, but i'm sure someone can chime in on it. Cyboman showed a nice picture of his setup in an old thread.

Due to wanting to get my car going before the end of summer i'm going to forge ahead and have someone weld the fittings for me. Thanks for all the input so far folks.
R 1Rocketship (Guest)
Dependent upon your fabricating skills.

A piece of 3/8"-1/2" aluminum plate & using the mounting surface of a 351 Cleveland water pump as a template, using common tools ( jigsaw with metal cutting blade, drill & tap) a block-off plate could be easily ( in my experience) made...Mark
R 1Rocketship (Guest)
quote:
Originally posted by BLKPNTR:
We made the block off plate and welded the bungs to it.
Are those slot head bolts securing the block off plate?

Also is that a grounding strap on the driver's side cylinder head?

I see you removed the A/C compressor Bravo I did remove mine as well...Mark
R 1Rocketship (Guest)
quote:
Originally posted by BLKPNTR:
We're using -12.
quote:
Originally posted by Hustler:
definitely agree. you guys using -10 or -12 fittings?
Please, take this as constructive criticism.

Is there a reason you chose to use the cylinder head as a grounding point vs the engine block?

The reason I inquire is because the cylinder head gaskets act as a partial insulator between the engine block & cylinder head.

The most effective grounding would be to ground to the largest piece of iron, that being the engine block, the "1" caveat being if the engine block was aluminum...Mark
R 1Rocketship (Guest)
quote:
Originally posted by BLKPNTR:
Thanks for pointing it out. I just bolted it there, didn't think about it. You're right it would be better on the block. Things you do in a hurry to start and drive car.
Understand COMPLETELY about "The Passion to Drive" & subsequently the "Less then Perfect" adaptations that are made in order to get behind the wheel!

I'd be both a "fool" & a "Liar" not to freely admit to doing some Rube Goldberg type of engineering to get behind the wheel!...Mark

http://rubegoldberg.com/
ausfordausfordMember
quote:
Originally posted by 1Rocketship:
quote:
Originally posted by BLKPNTR:
We're using -12.
quote:
Originally posted by Hustler:
definitely agree. you guys using -10 or -12 fittings?
Please, take this as constructive criticism.

Is there a reason you chose to use the cylinder head as a grounding point vs the engine block?

The reason I inquire is because the cylinder head gaskets act as a partial insulator between the engine block & cylinder head.


The most effective grounding would be to ground to the largest piece of iron, that being the engine block, the "1" caveat being if the engine block was aluminum...Mark




The cylinder heads are the part of the engine that actually needs to be earthed, that"s after all where the spark plugs are !!

The gasket is a bit of a insulator but there are 10 very big 1/2" bolts that connect the block to the heads providing some electrical path.

If in doubt add extra earth straps.


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